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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    102

    Default 01 MastersBilt dragging the right rail

    Our track was especially heavy this week and my 01’ (narrow) Masters was dragging the right rail bad. Wore all the powder coat off and dented the underside after 25 laps. Car was good through the center then really tight on exit. I’m guessing the rail was digging in the track, pulling it to the right. I would think a stiffer RF spring would be the only way to get it up out of the track?

    Springs:
    LF: 500 RF: 425
    LR: 250 RR: 225
    J-bar: 8” on frame, at pinion height on rear end
    Left: 55.2%
    Rear: 53.4%
    Bite: 100 lbs
    2345 lbs total
    Above includes 20ga of fuel & driver (steel block / alum heads, wet sump)
    5th coil: 350# spring on 3 shock at 37” from centerline of rear end

    Any suggestions? Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    668

    Default

    where were your ride heights at? was the car way up on the bars? or did it stay mostly level and still drag the rail? is it the front or rear of the rail that was dragging?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Batavia, OH
    Posts
    13,635

    Default

    Those cars didn't have enough clearance to go soft on the rf like everyone is now. I never had softer than a 450# in the rf of my narrow car.

    If I still had one today, I would get someone to build me a set of spindles with the snout located lower.

    My 2000 narrow definitely rubbed a bit at times. My 1995 narrow was totally fubared at the end of the level portion of the rail where it turned up.
    Last edited by MasterSbilt_Racer; 05-23-2011 at 10:22 AM.
    Modern Day Wedge Racing
    Florence -2
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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    141

    Default

    MasterSbilt_Racer is the one to listen to, but from my experience I was able to get down to a 350-325 on smooth tracks with my 01. One thing you could "try" is a 10 in. RF spring in the same rate, I called mastersbilt an they told me that would stop the frame from dragging but i dont know how just an option to try

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    668

    Default

    what size spring were you running before you would put a 10" on it? running an 8"?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    613

    Default

    We had a '99 narrow car and the lowest we went on the hook was a 425.......and our rail was UGLY! ( many repairs/reinforcements)
    I wouldn't expect a tall spring to do anything..... it may get worse as I am thinking. Put the biggest tire on the rf you can get.
    More panhard bar rake and your driving style can really make this excessive.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    102

    Default

    Front heights were at 3-3/4. Car was mostly level, and dragging just at the front of the rail where it turns up.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    102

    Default

    Thanks for all the replies. I think I'll go back to a 450#+ RF spring (running 10" springs now). The only thing I dont like about this is it seems to tighen me up on entry thru the middle. Any thoughts?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    668

    Default

    my thought is as least it is controllable with a stiffer spring. if you are on the rail you have taken the driver out of the equation and you will go wherever the rail slides. first thing i would try is to raise the LR lower bar on the frame by one hole and go from there. does this sound right masterSbilt_racer?

    where do you have your ballast mounted? maybe try putting it a little lower in the car. that will free the car up all the way through.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    613

    Default

    I would lower your panhard bar at frame, and/or move rear end to the right.
    Last edited by jedclampit; 05-23-2011 at 12:06 PM.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Batavia, OH
    Posts
    13,635

    Default

    I agree with Jed as is. I would get some different spindles made if possible though.
    Modern Day Wedge Racing
    Florence -2
    Atomic - 1

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    102

    Default

    Thanks guys. I already have my rear 1/4" to the right of where its suposed to be, but I wouldnt mind going a little further as the RR does rub ocasionaly. How much does it take to make a difference?

    Also, my LR drop is about 13-1/8" when jacked up under the seat (top of the axle to the underside of the rail). Does this play into how far the RF travels?

    MasterSbilt_racer: any sugestions on who could make the spindles? How much lower do you think the snout should be?
    Last edited by JB1K; 05-23-2011 at 01:42 PM.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Batavia, OH
    Posts
    13,635

    Default

    Might as well go an inch, I guess. I'm not sure who to recommend for a spindle. You need someone who makes aftermarket stuff who is willing to do it.
    Modern Day Wedge Racing
    Florence -2
    Atomic - 1

  14. #14

    Default

    PPM or Sweet could do them for ya.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    102

    Default

    Can anyone confirm when MasterSbilt started raising the rail on the smackdown cars?

  16. #16

    Default

    About 06. the way to tell if yours is raised is if the right lower hole in the mount is below the frame rail. if it is it is raised .

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Georgia
    Posts
    1,023

    Default

    Might try raising your ride heights a 1/2 to 1 full inch or so and reset your front end. We did it with a Rayburn for different reasons, but it might let you keep running the lighter spring without having to spend anything. Is this a steel engine or aluminum?
    "If racing were easy, everybody would do it."

    #77 Leon "Slick" Sells

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