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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    17

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    Also, how do I squeeze a bigger radiator in the car? the radiator support will only hold one that is so big. I cannot use bars or do away with the stock from radiator support.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    632

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    Best 3 hours I ever spent, was to make like a air dam under the front bumper to the radiator. The sides went to the bumper and the top of the radiator sloped down along the bumper to the bottom. Yes this was on a stock car on dirt, but never had anymore holes in the front bumper. Came off the track at 200.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    1,238

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    what type transmission you running??? a automatic? with factory lines to fluid cooler in radiator?? if so,..run lines to a aftermarket trans cooler would help some,...few degrees of timing will get a chevy hot too!! a outa tune quadrabomb carb will cook a motor also!! you running stock exhast?? stoped up catalinic converter will build heat too,freeing up stock exhast will help a few degrees too!! also a radator hose can be cut if to long...good luck

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    17

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    I just tried putting my new GM 19" fan on and the bolt holes don't line up with my pump. They are the smaller bolt pattern. Can I just get a spacer that fits the hub in the center and then make slots out of the holes so it fits? The hub will keep it centered then. My water pump has fine threads in it. Are they just the typical 5/16" bolt fine thread?

    Also, I'm going to tune my carb. What's the easiest way to do that on a q-jet? Anyone have a procedure? As I said, it kind of bogs for a second when the secondaries kick in.

    I'll also take 2* of timing out.
    Last edited by enduro racer; 06-04-2011 at 01:47 PM.

  5. #25

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    Get a 'loop type of wire crimp on end. Take one of the carb bolts out by the secondary top plate, put the loop under the bolt and bent it enough to open to top plate a bit. Loosen the spring on the top plate that keeps it closed. When you mash on the secondarys it goes lean for a bit. With the top plate (not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)ed open a bit the needle 'jets are off the seat a bit, and with the spring backed off the top plate will open easier. It wont be as lean when the secondarys are opened up.
    OR: adjust the needle seats at the cam part of the top plate.
    Rough and dirt way of doing it, can't hurt to try that.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    17

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    Quote Originally Posted by enduro racer View Post
    I just tried putting my new GM 19" fan on and the bolt holes don't line up with my pump. They are the smaller bolt pattern. Can I just get a spacer that fits the hub in the center and then make slots out of the holes so it fits? The hub will keep it centered then. My water pump has fine threads in it. Are they just the typical 5/16" bolt fine thread?

    Also, I'm going to tune my carb. What's the easiest way to do that on a q-jet? Anyone have a procedure? As I said, it kind of bogs for a second when the secondaries kick in.

    I'll also take 2* of timing out.
    Anyone?????

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,039

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by enduro racer View Post
    I just tried putting my new GM 19" fan on and the bolt holes don't line up with my pump. They are the smaller bolt pattern. Can I just get a spacer that fits the hub in the center and then make slots out of the holes so it fits? The hub will keep it centered then. My water pump has fine threads in it. Are they just the typical 5/16" bolt fine thread?

    Also, I'm going to tune my carb. What's the easiest way to do that on a q-jet? Anyone have a procedure? As I said, it kind of bogs for a second when the secondaries kick in.

    I'll also take 2* of timing out.
    In you 1st post you say you have this water pump...
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-67264/?rtype=10
    Just use the small bolt pattern. I wouldn't recommend slotting holes on the fan nor the spacer, get the right stuff the 1st time.
    Almost every aftermarket performance water pump I've seen, had fine thread, 5/16" dual pattern holes. If yours don't, get a good quality pump that does.
    Good luck on the Q-Jet, I've tried 'em, and every one would either bog or blow the tires off when the secondaries would come in. I know others that run them
    and you couldn't give them a Holley.
    I'd set the timing at 36* @ full advance and forget it. If your having detonation/pre-ignition issues, use the right octane fuel, a good carb. and the right heat range plug.
    Gill T. Azell

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    17

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gadirtracer View Post
    In you 1st post you say you have this water pump...
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-67264/?rtype=10
    Just use the small bolt pattern. I wouldn't recommend slotting holes on the fan nor the spacer, get the right stuff the 1st time.
    Almost every aftermarket performance water pump I've seen, had fine thread, 5/16" dual pattern holes. If yours don't, get a good quality pump that does.
    Good luck on the Q-Jet, I've tried 'em, and every one would either bog or blow the tires off when the secondaries would come in. I know others that run them
    and you couldn't give them a Holley.
    I'd set the timing at 36* @ full advance and forget it. If your having detonation/pre-ignition issues, use the right octane fuel, a good carb. and the right heat range plug.
    No, i have a procomp water pump, not a proform.

    We can't run holleys. A guy I know tuned the carb for me, didn't seem too hard but the engine runs smooth as silk now. We'll see if the bog goes away.

    I got the lower hose replace with one with a wire in it and I have a stewart thermostat coming in the mail. hopefully all this fixes it.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    668

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    so how did everything turn out? or have you raced yet?

  10. #30

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    i dont like the procomp water pump. if you look inside where it bolts to the block one side is almost closed off the way they are cast. i never used the one i bought, i use CAT pump, they work great .

  11. #31
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    17

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    Haven't raced yet.... We only race once per month and I missed the last race. My next move will probably be to change the water pump to a stewart if all the other changes don't help.

  12. #32
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    63

    Default

    Follow Ego's advice.
    1. Good Stewert water pump.
    2. 1:1 pulleys(or as close to 1:1 as possible).
    3. Hi-flow racing T-stat(like a Shaw which has the bypass holes drilled in it).
    4. Half decent shroud.
    5. Solid clean radiator.
    6. Proper 4-blade fan (though I just ran a crappy plastic one).
    Key deal here is the good pump and 1:1 pulleys.
    Ran this with a sealed nose IMCA mod on 12:1 gas motor...all day at 200 degress.
    Almost forgot...Do not buy ANYTHING Procomp. It is junk! Learned this lesson all on my own.
    Best of luck.
    Last edited by primal2; 07-09-2011 at 11:21 AM.

  13. #33
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    17

    Default

    Great.... that's good to know I wasted money on that pump. I'll save for a stewart one. I got 1 race in but only made it 5 laps. Got tied up in an accident....

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