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  1. #21
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    Dec 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Living_Truth View Post
    Carolina Driveline also specializes in these. That's where I've bought my last two.

    driveline specialist an stone heavy duty in g'boro can fab up any type of shaft you can imagine!!

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by stock car driver View Post
    1.5 is the MAX you would want sticking out on a stock yoke.

    pinion angle, not sure where you get your ideas from, but your wrong. you might want to read about drive shafts, u joints and such and then youll learn what your pinion angle should be at. Its not a guessing game.
    splicer web site,...an lots of post on here! as i said,depending on type of suspension to,..if his suspension moves rearend forward more than 1 1/2 he gotta have more yoke slide,..basic physic's 2 objects of matter cant occupy same space at same time...cant argue with sir isacc newton can ya?

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirty white boy View Post
    splicer web site,...an lots of post on here! as i said,depending on type of suspension to,..if his suspension moves rearend forward more than 1 1/2 he gotta have more yoke slide,..basic physic's 2 objects of matter cant occupy same space at same time...cant argue with sir isacc newton can ya?
    Im not sure if you are even using english in the above post?

    BUT to clarify with a oem slip yoke the MOST ANYONE should have exposed is 1.5.


    As for using posts on here as a reference, thats just laughable based on your own BEING incorrect when it comes to pinion angle by a MILE!

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by stock car driver View Post
    Im not sure if you are even using english in the above post?

    BUT to clarify with a oem slip yoke the MOST ANYONE should have exposed is 1.5.


    As for using posts on here as a reference, thats just laughable based on your own BEING incorrect when it comes to pinion angle by a MILE!
    he posted he had just installed a longer than stock yoke in his first post,....correct me on pinion angle then,..been tryin to get it straight in my mind as im puttin motor,trans an rear end in miner for first time an need to get it right!,..an had thought i had a good grasp of it all threw posting threads an studing your an ego an others replys to them...

  5. #25
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    Dec 2008
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    http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_cata..._problems.html

    http://www.carcraft.com/howto/91758/index.html

    quot...According to Bickel, a ladder-bar suspension normally requires ½ degree of pinion angle, a four-link requires 1-2½ degrees, and a leaf-spring suspension requires up to 6 to 7 degrees.
    Last edited by dirty white boy; 06-03-2011 at 03:14 PM.

  6. #26
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    Jul 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirty white boy View Post
    http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_cata..._problems.html

    http://www.carcraft.com/howto/91758/index.html

    quot...According to Bickel, a ladder-bar suspension normally requires ½ degree of pinion angle, a four-link requires 1-2½ degrees, and a leaf-spring suspension requires up to 6 to 7 degrees.
    Nice to see you doing some research and educating yourself. Taking a persons word on a forum is not always the best way to go. Now that you did some looking Ill tell you my opinion.

    In my opinion the numbers you quoted above are what they believe the pinion needs to be at in order to make sure it doesnt over center and they are taking into account some extra security... or extra angle a little.

    I run NEW rear bushings and maintain them well and run the same pinion angle in my rearend as I have ANGLE in my motor. In other words I match the two u joints angle so as to not lose HP by having a bind in either or both joints!

    My motor is mounted LEVEL at ride height all scaled etc. My pinion is ZERO in the car.

    My motor is 1.25 angled down compared to the frame if the frame was dead level. I run the rear of my car a little higher than the front most of the time is the only reason there is any angle.

  7. #27
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    Dec 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by stock car driver View Post
    Nice to see you doing some research and educating yourself. Taking a persons word on a forum is not always the best way to go. Now that you did some looking Ill tell you my opinion.

    In my opinion the numbers you quoted above are what they believe the pinion needs to be at in order to make sure it doesnt over center and they are taking into account some extra security... or extra angle a little.

    I run NEW rear bushings and maintain them well and run the same pinion angle in my rearend as I have ANGLE in my motor. In other words I match the two u joints angle so as to not lose HP by having a bind in either or both joints!

    My motor is mounted LEVEL at ride height all scaled etc. My pinion is ZERO in the car.

    My motor is 1.25 angled down compared to the frame if the frame was dead level. I run the rear of my car a little higher than the front most of the time is the only reason there is any angle.
    done researched it till my head hurts,..have no clew what ride hights will be,..got frame level!! all i can find has pointed to 4 to 5 degrees down on motor,...an 6 down on pinion,full camaro clip-tube back, on leafs...with stock type solid motor mounts,...now im confused again!! hell tryin to build a dang car with no experience,no help,an sadest,no money!! all my experiences with drive lines has been in tandem axle big trucks an i know what it takes to get them to live runnin flat out tote'in 80,000lbs! but thats a total defferant world than a dirt car!

  8. #28
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    Oct 2007
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    leaf cars do require negative pinion angle to prevent going past center, normally 6 degrees to as much as 9 in extreme cases

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by bushracing67 View Post
    leaf cars do require negative pinion angle to prevent going past center, normally 6 degrees to as much as 9 in extreme cases
    ALL cars trucks etc should have the pinion angle set so that the rear joint wont ever rotate past zero.

  10. #30
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    Apr 2008
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    I checked my pinion at ride height, and my pinion is pointing down in the front 1 degree. The driveshaft if pointing down in the rear 3 degrees. I have 1 1/4 " that the yoke can move in. I took the springs out and raised the rearend up as far as it will go, and still have almost the same 1 1/4" clearance. Gonna run it wed if it doesnt rain. Thanks for all the help.

  11. #31

    Default yoke

    One time I had a slightly bent rear end yoke that shelled out 2 drive shafts before I figured it out.Put a dial indicator on the yoke and turn the yoke.Mine was 10-20 thou. out I think.Put a new yoke on-no more problems.Good luck

  12. #32
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    Apr 2008
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    Hi Nick. What is acceptible run out of a rear yoke???Runnin 7 to 1 in high gear.Thanks.

  13. #33

    Default yoke

    I dont know what factory tolerances are but mine was bent enough to really make that needle jump on the dial indicator.It's just something easy to check and rule out.Good luck!

  14. #34
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    May 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by stock car driver View Post
    Nice to see you doing some research and educating yourself. Taking a persons word on a forum is not always the best way to go. Now that you did some looking Ill tell you my opinion.

    In my opinion the numbers you quoted above are what they believe the pinion needs to be at in order to make sure it doesnt over center and they are taking into account some extra security... or extra angle a little.

    I run NEW rear bushings and maintain them well and run the same pinion angle in my rearend as I have ANGLE in my motor. In other words I match the two u joints angle so as to not lose HP by having a bind in either or both joints!



    My motor is mounted LEVEL at ride height all scaled etc. My pinion is ZERO in the car.

    My motor is 1.25 angled down compared to the frame if the frame was dead level. I run the rear of my car a little higher than the front most of the time is the only reason there is any angle.

    so you have no wrap in your springs??? reason for negative numbers is when on gas the pinion lifts upward thus making driveshaft level from trans to rearend. if rear of trans is downhill when yoke makes upward movement your past zero and now positive. this is also why its beleived that negative will create more drive due to fact that front of rear is lifting upward and fighting thus pushing tires into ground.

  15. #35
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    Jul 2011
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    ı want new job. good luck. + rep

  16. #36
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    Apr 2010
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    my car did the same thing this year - spit the driveshaft in two and cracked the case on a powerglide trans - what we have found that we are pretty sure was the problem was a snubber above the rearend and on wrap up it caught the snubber and twisted the end off the driveshaft and i suppose slammed the rest of the driveshaft into the transmission putting a lot of pressure on everything in the tranny busting the case - just make sure you dont have something in the way of your wrap up on acceleration - the rearend moves more than you think even on a leaf car

  17. #37
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    May 2010
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    this is also why its beleived that negative will create more drive due to fact that front of rear is lifting upward ????????? MORE DRIVE ??? How does it give more drive? I put mine at 7 degrees on pinion angle.

  18. #38
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    Apr 2008
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    Ran last week, and everything worked great. You can see where the yoke has moved in the tranny almost an inch. When i put the longer aftermarket yoke in it, it was almost bottomed out when it was just sitting, wich i did not know. The aftermarket yoke bottomed out on the splines before it hit the tailshaft.Seem to have everything worked out now. I can tell you that if your bushings are in good shape,your pinion will not move up more than a degree or two with a 300 hp engine with a stock 4 link setup from what i have witnessed.

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