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Thread: brakes lockup

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    16

    Default brakes lockup

    run a pure stock class rules say no after market master.Are running disk in rear but for the last three weeks calipers have locked up in the heat race have replaced everything front to back every week and we are not running a porpotion valve could that be it.It also always starts with the right rear

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Glasgow, Kentucky
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    Default

    Fluid has water in it or is cheap and it is swelling up/boiling and locking the brakes.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    16

    Default

    Ok I will use a better fluid.Could it be anything else

  4. #4
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    Jul 2007
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    121

    Default

    pinched line or calipers could be bad
    Last edited by keithbaker; 05-31-2011 at 02:50 PM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    187

    Default Brakes

    Master cylinder not returning all the way back

  6. #6
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    Jul 2007
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    3,224

    Default

    Usually when I have any rear brake issues its because the mounts arent 90 to the rotor, if one is bent just a tiny bit even it will apply side pressure to the caliper piston and the piston will not return into the caliper and THUS its locked up..

    I visually inspect my caliper mts every time I change gears, looking at the distance from the bolt to the rotor can be a good quick indicator also you can usually visually see a caliper that is not 90 to the rotor.

  7. #7

    Default

    Don't use DOT5!!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    904

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Chaps46 View Post
    Don't use DOT5!!
    yeah i found that out this year, that (not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word) sucks... the sticking brakes could be a bad rubber hose collapsing as well, check them all if your not running stainless hoses

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    16

    Default

    Started all over one more time new everything including brackets did use Prestone synthetic high heat fluid. Has anyone had any luck with it. Never the less I will let you
    Know this weekend how it turns out thanks for the info guys

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
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    1,238

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bushracing67 View Post
    yeah i found that out this year, that (not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word) sucks... the sticking brakes could be a bad rubber hose collapsing as well, check them all if your not running stainless hoses
    seen this many times on stock lines..

  11. #11
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    Jul 2007
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    121

    Default

    maybe check to see if your pedal and master cylinder is returning all the way

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2010
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    632

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dirty white boy View Post
    seen this many times on stock lines..
    I have never seen a rubber brake hose collapse. It has always been where it is crimped together at the end to the metal. Rust forms under it, squeezing the hose shut.

  13. #13
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    Jul 2007
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    Default

    I run DOT 4 fluid. Synthetic attracts and holds moisture, I wouldnt use it in a race car.

  14. #14
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    May 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by stock car driver View Post
    I run DOT 4 fluid. Synthetic attracts and holds moisture, I wouldnt use it in a race car.
    Synthetic is bad but ALL brake fluid will absorb and hold water. That is why on evey bottle it says only use fresh fluid. There are meters on the market that can read the water level.

  15. #15
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    Jul 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Egoracing View Post
    Synthetic is bad but ALL brake fluid will absorb and hold water. That is why on evey bottle it says only use fresh fluid. There are meters on the market that can read the water level.
    YES true BUT synthetic is much worse at absorbing or attractiong the water from what I remember.

    I havent read about it in years but I remember when the synth first came out everyone was getting soft pedals from it within a night or two.

  16. #16
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    Dec 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirtrunner35 View Post
    I have never seen a rubber brake hose collapse. It has always been where it is crimped together at the end to the metal. Rust forms under it, squeezing the hose shut.
    the ones ive seen,...rubber com lose on inside,..an plug line up....line look fine on outside!

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by stock car driver View Post
    YES true BUT synthetic is much worse at absorbing or attractiong the water from what I remember.

    I havent read about it in years but I remember when the synth first came out everyone was getting soft pedals from it within a night or two.
    You ever see someone go to the old "racing" synthetic fluid that would NOT mix with regular fluid. They would mix and it looked like burnt jello.

  18. #18
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    Dec 2007
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Egoracing View Post
    You ever see someone go to the old "racing" synthetic fluid that would NOT mix with regular fluid. They would mix and it looked like burnt jello.
    Ego, do you cook your Jello?

    DOT 3 or 4 store brand fluid will work on a street stock, just keep the system bleed and the fluid fresh. After every race or two, I'll bleed the calipers to get the old heat soaked fluid out of the calipers and top it back off with fresh fluid.
    When I buy brake fluid, I get the small bottles, to minimize the times the lid is removed allowing moisture in.
    Gill T. Azell

  19. #19
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    Dec 2007
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    Default

    jarvis, are you using an inline residual valve? If so, which one? Why?
    If you have a master cylinder designed for rear drums and you now have disks out back, that's you issue. Some stock masters have the residual valve built in them. Drums require more pressure to operate and the m.c. is holding a set amount of pressure there when you are off the brakes, the components heat up and expand and now your brakes are locked up.
    Gill T. Azell

  20. #20
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    Dec 2007
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    Default

    Gill T. Azell

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