84 monte metric camber on left side

[cheater0]

we cant cut a arm tower so what else can i do to get more + camber the a arms have to be stock too any ideas!!!

[wiley78k]

Add more shims. then use caster camber guage to make sure you didnt throw off ur caster settings as well

[bushracing67]

assuming the issue is on the left front, when i ran stock a-frames i used as few shims as possible on left upper, and any parts store can set you up with an off set cross shaft that is normally good for around an extra degree

[C10]

I always cut them and flattened them, then cut a small piece of metal and welded it back into the cut. Grind it smooth both sides and paint it up nice. Been doing it for years and no one has noticed. Not even at the Boone Nationals.

[Dirtrunner35]

Cut out a small piece in the lower arm close to the ball joint and weld back together. Who would ever look there!!

[bushracing67]

some great ideas, i also ran screw in ball joints and we would offset the cut out for the weld in bung to help with camber

[5dirtracing]

slot the bottom A-arm frame wholes inward then weld up the access of the original whole grind to look unaltered then use an ofset upper A-arm shaft also weld up the ball joint bolt wholes grind out the big whole where the ball joint goes threw toward the outside then redrill the bolt wholes

[Jeffery]

Anyone know if this will get the job done??

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOG-K5250/

[bushracing67]

did you even try read all the previous posts ?

[Jeffery]

Did you even click the link I provided?

[bushracing67]

yeah... thats exactly what about everyone of us said in our responses

[Jeffery]

yeah... thats exactly what about everyone of us said in our responses

yeah.... with no real part number stated either. Thanks for the info.

[speedbuggy]

yeah.... with no real part number stated either. Thanks for the info.

Moog part number is K6218

[3dinter]

yeah.... with no real part number stated either. Thanks for the info.

just walk into any parts store and ask for an offset shaft for your car. i might be wrong,,but i think thats the only shaft they sale new NOWADAYs.

[Graff Spee]

Why don't you just carefully cut off the upper control arm mount and reposition? If you take your time and do a quality job no one will ever know that anything was done. You can also get rid of the anti dive (you would have to do both sides) and ultimately have a much faster car. Those off set bars are ok but they bend real easy. All the other "tricks" sound good but what about when you need to change parts at the track? This way you just use regular stuff with no "special" problems. I have always built cars this way. Keep it simple! Do what you want though, I can only give my opinion. Most of all, good luck!

[Graff Spee]

Anti-dive is designed into the front suspension by the manufacturer. With anti-dive present, you can run a softer spring and have a nice comfortable ride in your street car. When you are on the brakes it puts a major bind in the front suspension. It is trying to lock up the front end so that it won't bottom out with the softer springs. This is why you see alot of street stock guys pushing going into the corners. Anti-dive can be useful in some asphalt racing situations but only in very small amounts. That is not even recomended. Its is always better to fix the problem, not to band-aid it. Cars with the anti-dive removed are always more consistant and ultimately faster. This is not an opinion,it is simlpe fact.

[Graff Spee]

Anti dive doesnt make street stock cars push, lol..

But since you put the word FACT in there I acknowledge that you think you know it all so I will heed and let you bask in all your wisdom.

I like you SCD, you think for yourself. Not many do nowadays. I am not here to argue but to help. I have been at the point you are at now. I know where you are coming from. You are very smart, keep at it and it will all start coming together for you. Remember that you are always learning. Don't close yourself off to that. I don't claim to be smart but to have gained some knowledge along the way. When I was working with Chrysler some years back on a Viper based project, I would refer to this book on occasion. Check it out. You may like it. "Race Car Vehicle Dynamics" by Bill and Doug Milliken, ISBN 1-56091-526-9 Good luck and happy racing! Graff

[Dirtrunner35]

copied from "Bob Paulin - Canuck" at Autoware.

First of all, lowering the inner pivots on the upper control arm may, indeed, change your camber curve - maybe for the better, maybe worse - but, more importantly, it raises your roll center.....which assists in reducing weight transfer.....which allows for softer springs.......which should help in turning the car.

Now, there is a somewhat complex geometrical approach to anti-dive.

Drawing lines through the upper control arm pivots and the lower control arm pivots will result in an instantaneous center (IC) where those two lines intersect.

Drawing another line from the tire contact patch through this IC - the "force vector" line or "reaction" line - will result in the line crossing the Center of Gravity (CoG) plane or moment arm at a certain height.

Where the reaction line crosses the CoG moment arm determines your anti-dive.

Higher decreases the leverage the CoG mass has on the front suspension while a lower point increases it.

Generally speaking, lowering the rear pivot point of the upper control arm INCREASES anti-dive because it causes the IC to move forward, resulting in the tire contact patch line hitting the CoG line higher - closer to the actual CoG - thus reducing the leverage that the CoG mass has on that wheel.

I have has some success increasing the right side anti-dive while decreasing the left side anti-dive. That has a tendency to make the car dive onto the left front, increasing LF tire temperatures - which tells me that the LF is working a bit harder to get the car through the turns.

On a 108" Metric chassis, this would mean lowering the rear pivot or raising the front pivot point on the right side and raising the rear/lowering the front pivot point on the left.

FYI - some engineers will also figure a separate braking torque anti-dive based on the height and location of the above-mentioned IC, but I find using the above process to work just fine for me.

[Graff Spee]

Is that book worth 85 bucks? Ill order one.

It won't let me "IM" you so here it is. Do not buy that book! I will send you a copy. "IM" me with some info. We can go from there.