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rearsteer?
If I'm needing a little more rearsteer but don't want to mess up forward drive, what is the first changes should I be looking at? Drive and entry is good but have a throttle push at apex. Don't want to fix one area and ruin another area. Thanks
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i would put a little more rebound in the RF shock....hold it on the RF just a little longer to let the car get turned...jmo...my shock guy has imo the best RF shock to take a throttle push out
Chris Zogg
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i would try raising rru bar. or static just try lengthing right side a 1/8 or 1/4in
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I just got done checking car. Have been out of town for about a month only getting home in time to load car and go racing. My front ride heights were both 1/2" low. Brought them back up and scale number were just about back to normal. Rear is also 3/8" low. My roll out on both is less than original tires. Can I just raise rear up to match my setup guide? What happens if I just run it with rear lower? Will it be tighter entry? Tighter on throttle? Or what? As you've probably quested, I'm new to this 4-bar deal. Thanks
ighter entry? Tighter on throttle? Or what? As you've probably quested, I'm new with this 4-b
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Maybe your not sideways enough for the bite you have now. Are you trying to drive it out of the turns ?
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Originally Posted by tumbleweed
If I'm needing a little more rearsteer but don't want to mess up forward drive, what is the first changes should I be looking at? Drive and entry is good but have a throttle push at apex. Don't want to fix one area and ruin another area. Thanks
If you are pushing you have to much forward drive for your setup. The only way to correct this is to loose some forward. Are you running a 4 link with birdcages and where are the spring locations.
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Dirtrunner, you are probably right about maybe not driving it hard enough. Still trying to adjust myself to run it into the corner like I'm trying to roll the car over. LOL. Ego, LR spring is behind, shock in front. RR spring is in front and shock behind.
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Originally Posted by tumbleweed
Dirtrunner, you are probably right about maybe not driving it hard enough. Still trying to adjust myself to run it into the corner like I'm trying to roll the car over. LOL. Ego, LR spring is behind, shock in front. RR spring is in front and shock behind.
Are they on birdcages or welded mounts?
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Raising the left bottom bar on the chassis will loose some forward drive on the gas from the center off and increase rearsteer some.
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You have too much drive for your driving style, either drive in harder or take out bite. This is my first year in a 4-bar/ z-link car. A spring behind car has tons of bite on the left rear, drive it in harder. You will get it.
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OK, I reduced LR bite down to 20#, was 35#, both without driver. Car was much better last night. I could actually drive the car. Was getting thru corners faster. But, I got to noticing that the car seems to rotate later than the fast cars. Doesn't appear to rotate until right at center of corner, which at that point I could get on the gas pretty hard. Question is, what dictates when car rotates? Is it simple entry speed, or are there chassis adjustments that can help. I think if I can get car to rotate sooner, my corner speed will probably cut my lap times about 2 seconds. Was also thinking about lowering LR bite another 10# or so. Any thoughts or ideas?
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Tacky or dry track? Tire pressures ? Entry speed could do it or you may add some rear steer.Are you 4-bar on the right side also?
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Originally Posted by Dirtrunner35
Tacky or dry track? Tire pressures ? Entry speed could do it or you may add some rear steer.Are you 4-bar on the right side also?
Dry track and 4-bar both sides. I run 11.5 LF, 13.5 RF, 8 LR, and 12.5 RR. All wheels 4off except 2off on RR. Have 47.9 cross, 53.7 left, 52.9 rear.
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You need 56 to 58 rear o/o raise the right lower bar up one hole from level. If it gets to loose from center off level right lower bar. If you need to thighten it up more sometime raise your right lower bar at the birdcage to slow down the index of the birdcage.
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Finally got hold of chassis builder. He told me to raise the brake bar on LR floater one hole. Didn't want me to change a link bar yet, since I was real close to having car like I want it. He also said his cars do not like a higher rear %, and to keep it at 53-53 1/2%. This was his personal car last year so I think I'll try his suggestion and see what happens.
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Sounds to me you are getting in the gas to soon. When the car is pointed in the direction you want to go, then hit the gas. Just Sayin.
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Originally Posted by tumbleweed
Finally got hold of chassis builder. He told me to raise the brake bar on LR floater one hole. Didn't want me to change a link bar yet, since I was real close to having car like I want it. He also said his cars do not like a higher rear %, and to keep it at 53-53 1/2%. This was his personal car last year so I think I'll try his suggestion and see what happens.
How is this going to effect rearsteer and apex handling? are you on the brake at apex?
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Originally Posted by powerslide
How is this going to effect rearsteer and apex handling? are you on the brake at apex?
I beleive what he is trying to do is to get the car to rotate sooner by forcing car to pivot on left rear. I do brake thru corner while staying on gas trying to keep car up on the bars. Still trying to get the feel for this, and I may actually be applying slightly more brake at apex. I definitely feel car rotate at apex but can't seem to get it to rotate on corner entry, allowing me to pick up the throttle sooner to increase my corner speed. At the apex, after car rotates, I could probably mash the gas at that point(but I don't-try to ease back on the gas). If I try to pick up the throttle as early as most do, car will immediately push and push right on past the apex. Waiting way too long to pick throttle back up when it does this.
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I never saw where you listed your front springs..... rotation issues at entry usually mean too stiff spring on LF......depends on how tight a corner track it is......
525 LF, 500 RF.... fairly common .....
500 LF, 450 RF.... real smooth and slick.....takes experienced driver... have to be smooth on brake pedal and on and off gas....
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