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Lower rr trailing arm metric
I am under the understanding that the lower right rear trailing arm on a gm metric frame effects corner entry. With that being said my question is does any have info on what happens if you move it up and vise versa? I am to loose on corner entry on a dry slick track. Thanks
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loose in
Too much LR or cross weight (cant remember) can cause that too I think.
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Yes got about 135lbs of lead behind fuel cell. Stock car driver: watched your abilene race on you tube looked very good on dry slick. Look like you had alot of hp.
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![Quote](images/misc/quote_icon.png) Originally Posted by stock car driver
Do you have lead behind the axle?
I never move my trailing arms from hole to hole.
how much angle in your trailing arms
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I dont know about his power, but if you watch his videos, he corners better and comes out of the corner a lot better, That looks like where he is making up his time to me. Listen to what he has to say, because he definantly knows what he is doing.
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![Quote](images/misc/quote_icon.png) Originally Posted by stock car driver
I wouldnt run with ANY lead behind the rear axle.
STock Car driver,
i have digital scales what should the scale weights be on the screen ie: lf, rf, lr, rr weight. I can get my percentages from there if you can help me with that. My car weights 2850 full fuel no driver.Thanks
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![Quote](images/misc/quote_icon.png) Originally Posted by stock car driver
I always scale with no driver and fuel like after the feature so down 5-7 gallons.
I scale for 200 bite which is the left rear heavier than the rr by 200.
left 51-52 rear the same as left
cross is irrelevant
no weight behind or outside the springs
level your front a arms and put your left rear frame height half inch or so higher than the lf
then adjust your wt jacks to get to 200 bite and keep the car fairly level... if it has to go any way out of level raise the rf a little or lr.. i never run the lf lower than level on the lower a arm.
Thanks Stock Car Driver Ill give it a shot. Another question, do you run a tie down shock on the left rear or one that will hold it up as you go through the corner? Should my weight be mounted high or low inside the springs? Also how much does one of your cars weight because i have 52% rear weight now but the weight is behind the fuel cell? If I move all that weight over the rearend I will have to add more lead to get back to the same rear percentage, correct? Im already quite a bit over weight.Thanks for your time.
Last edited by goneracinn80; 08-26-2011 at 04:26 PM.
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Stock car driver, is LR shock bent? Or maybe just optical illusion.
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Stock car Driver
What kind of angle in lower trailing arms on rearend? Also what shock do you run on left rear tie down or hold up? Seems from your explaination of weight placement you run a hold up shock to keep the weight transfered to the right front correct?
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I have a question about trailing arm angle. If the lower bars have less angle in them (flattening them out a bit) does it bring the roll center down, and doesn't bring rear roll center down help side bite? (helping a loose off condition)
Now a bit off topic, but not really since there is a pic up there. Is that a late 80's to early 90's Grand Prix body on your Bomber, Stock Car Driver?
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![Quote](images/misc/quote_icon.png) Originally Posted by stock car driver
5050 6060
3030 3030
most of the time
split valves are for smooth tracks to fine tune, they arent NEEDED until your car is pretty darn good already
What brand shocks do you run and what about the angle of the rear lower trailing arms ?
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Thanks for the information. I have always been told to run as much angle as possible on the lower rear trailing arms because it helps with forward bite. Is that not correct ?
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it does but takes away from other things. Lowering the lower RR trailing arm increases side bite. The key is finding the most effective trailing arm angles to support your specific set-up and driving style! I usually set mine, RR arm level to just a slight angle depending on side bite feel with the LR arm being 6-12 inches more than the RR arm depending on the track conditions.
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I agree with stock car driver. I think that top arms is angles down when on the gas it pulls up on the frame and takes bite out and the arms up it pulls down on the frame and keeps bite in. is this right stock car driver I have a metric too and need all the help i can get.
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if u r on the gas when rear end rotates the bars ( angles down ) pulls up on frame taking weight off the rear end. if the bars ( angles up ) pulling down on the frame it keeps wight / bite in. does this help
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if you have the lr arm level and the rr arm up hill its definitely going to drive off the corner sideways! LOL
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i have my upper arms level right now but the moumts on the housing are as low as they can possibly be. this is still leaving me with 10° on the lowers. is this acceptable? shouls i massage the lowers some more?
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![Quote](images/misc/quote_icon.png) Originally Posted by outlaw087
if u r on the gas when rear end rotates the bars ( angles down ) pulls up on frame taking weight off the rear end. if the bars ( angles up ) pulling down on the frame it keeps wight / bite in. does this help
Are you talking about the lower rear tariling arms ? Do you want to keep them straight instead of having any angle in them ?
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![Quote](images/misc/quote_icon.png) Originally Posted by Ricky76
Are you talking about the lower rear tariling arms ? Do you want to keep them straight instead of having any angle in them ?
I was talking about the top arms. I have my lowers level. all of my mounts is adjustable and on tubs and rod ends. all of the mounts is in the stock location.
Last edited by outlaw087; 09-08-2011 at 03:59 PM.
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![Quote](images/misc/quote_icon.png) Originally Posted by stock car driver
No I dont agree.
The closer to level all 4 arms are the lower the rear roll center which promotes side bite and the more consistant your pinion angle, rear steer etc will be in and thru the complete corner.
My old chevelle had all 4 level which many claim on here will bind etc. that car had more fwd drive than my metric by a long ways, it lacked in side bite but it was 6 inches wider track also which I attribute the lack of side bite to.
The reason guys think more angle adds traction is they FEEL the tire drive up under them and lift on the car, so they FEEL they have more traction, what they have is more traction while its on its way up but once its under there you LOSE drive and traction and have to feather the throttle to get the rest of the way off the corner.
A car with the lf arm down and rr up drives off the corner sideways, when your behind those guys you can see their door numbers on the drivers side and their whole lf tire... thats never the fast way around a track.
So you're saying run all rear trailing arms straight ? Right now my top ones are straight, but my lower ones are at a big angle. The lower ones that have the mount on the bottom of the rear end housing are 4 inches from the bottom of the rear end housing. Should I change them and run them straight ?
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