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![Quote](images/misc/quote_icon.png) Originally Posted by stock car driver
I run my lowers as close to the housing as possible ALWAYS...
You must have a really high ride height as I cant get my uppers to 0 degrees.
Are you saying from car to rear end your uppers run uphill?
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ok so i reset my ride height and massaged on my lower mounts and now have them level. this gives me about 5° in my uppers. is this a good starting point? i can legally relocate the mounts on the chassis, should i raise them?
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![Quote](images/misc/quote_icon.png) Originally Posted by stock car driver
I run my lowers as close to the housing as possible ALWAYS...
You must have a really high ride height as I cant get my uppers to 0 degrees.
Thanks for the information. My rr ride height is 9 1/2 and my lr is 9.
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right now the car is on a jig and the rear end is sitting in saddles and cant move. i have some 4 hole brackets i was thinking of using. thanx for all of the advice.
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Alot of cars up our way have started running ride heights 10+ inches promotes more roll and side bite.
Josh K.
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Yeah when I raised mine up to where I have it now, it rolls over too much.
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I'd like to try that, but our track is a very small and very tight 1/4 mile that gets really dry slick. I'm thinking if I only run 51-52% rear, it won't have any forward bite. You have to slow down so much in the turns because the corners are so tight.
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![Quote](images/misc/quote_icon.png) Originally Posted by Ricky76
I'd like to try that, but our track is a very small and very tight 1/4 mile that gets really dry slick. I'm thinking if I only run 51-52% rear, it won't have any forward bite. You have to slow down so much in the turns because the corners are so tight.
I run a mustang hobby (unlimited motor rules with stock suspension) and never go above bout 52.5 rear. The rear suspension on the mustang is pretty much same as a metric
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stock car driver you said you run no lead out side or behind rear springs but your pictures shows lead outside of left rear weight jack and you run 200 lb of bite because your left lower is level .if you would put some angle it it you could back that bite off. angle in left lower will permote drive at left rear and yes angle in right will lossen it some into the corner only wile off the gas
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![Quote](images/misc/quote_icon.png) Originally Posted by racingford
stock car driver you said you run no lead out side or behind rear springs but your pictures shows lead outside of left rear weight jack and you run 200 lb of bite because your left lower is level .if you would put some angle it it you could back that bite off. angle in left lower will permote drive at left rear and yes angle in right will lossen it some into the corner only wile off the gas
Will angle in the right give you more off the turns or should it be level for more out of the turns ? I see what you're saying about it being loose getting in while off the gas. I have both my lowers at an angle and my car is very loose entering the corner while I'm off the gas and I only run about 80# of bite in the left rear.
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Hey Ricky. There are alot of guys on here that do things there way and it works well. I can tell you from experience that if you listen to Stock car driver , you will be fast.I know every driver is different , etc, but if you can drive at all, you will be fast if you listen to him and do what he tells you to do. Good luck with whatever you try.
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You want some static angle in right so when the body rolls it will be level with that being said you do not want it to go past level,angled down to the front during body roll
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I understand the theory in the matter and any link with angle down to the front wont have the drive a link with level or upward angle. give it a try u might like it.
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has anyone mentioned that if you could of seen the race you wouldnt have totaled that car out, rared up like that its no wonder,you cant see. four tires is allways faster than three. eight tires is even faster.
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![Quote](images/misc/quote_icon.png) Originally Posted by turner
Hey Ricky. There are alot of guys on here that do things there way and it works well. I can tell you from experience that if you listen to Stock car driver , you will be fast.I know every driver is different , etc, but if you can drive at all, you will be fast if you listen to him and do what he tells you to do. Good luck with whatever you try.
Thanks for the information. Our season is over, but wanting to get ideas for next year. I'm usually fast and have won the track championship at my track and this year the worst I finished was 4th once and 5th once. The rest were top 3's, but I'm always wanting to get faster. We run open motors, except no roller cams, no aluminum heads or blocks, and no 400 blocks. Our engines put out about 550-600 hp, but we have to run Hoosier (Nascar) pull offs so it's hard to get them hooked up. Again, thanks for all the help and information.
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bars angled down in front promote tight rear steer ,I likethe way you made your ballast old valve covers come in handy
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![Quote](images/misc/quote_icon.png) Originally Posted by stock car driver
I run my lowers as close to the housing as possible ALWAYS...
You must have a really high ride height as I cant get my uppers to 0 degrees.
My rear ride heights are 9" on rr and 8.5" on lr.
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rear
how are guys get ride heights that low?? i run 5x11 springs rear 250lr 200rr
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I have adjustable buckets in the rear and run 15 inch rear springs.
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