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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Podunk, Idaho
    Posts
    35

    Question The Verdict is in.... A Mustang it will be. Your input on the build...

    Ok, I have decided to build the Mustang. It is a mid 80's trunk model. V6 chassis.

    How would you build it? Tips, tricks? All mounting points must be in the stock location EXCEPT the RF upper strut mount can be changed to allow for Caster/Camber adjustments. I've got the motor handled (no worries there).

    Just for information, again, I have built several Pintos. Just never a Mustang.
    Caution: I spin without warning.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,008

    Default

    post a link to your rules so we can see what is allowed.

    olin

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Podunk, Idaho
    Posts
    35

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by return to dirt View Post
    post a link to your rules so we can see what is allowed.

    olin
    Home Sweet Home.... http://http://www.meridianspeedwayonline.com/id28.html

    Ok, folks. Lets see what ya got to make this one helluva car...
    Caution: I spin without warning.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Post Falls,ID
    Posts
    1,579

    Default

    if you are using the stock type motor mounts you will need to change the K member out for one that came from a 4 or 8 cylinder car,put a 1987 t-bird lower control arm on RF as well as t-bird tie rod end.
    No matter how hard you try...you cant fix stupid!!!

    If you build it right...it will turn left!!!

    www.raceidaho.com

  5. #5

    Default

    Put the rear hoop up on top of the rear cross member that all the suspension mounts to so u can put your seat all the way back there.

    Ditch the stock bumpers there crazy heavy.

    Connect the front and rear frame sections to make a wicked stiff car.

    Long rf arm also make the arms level in the front.

    Put as much angle in your rear arms as possiblble.

    Cut cut cut these midrange are hard to get to minimum weight if u can ditch the frame after the shock mounts do it.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Post Falls,ID
    Posts
    1,579

    Default

    i didnt cut anything from mine except doors skinned(stock impact beam still in)to make room for doorbars...trunk,hood,roof,inside car..nothing has been skinned,and with a full load of fuel(12 gallons)on the scales for the 1st time ever it weighed 1937lbs without me,and 2151 with me...that is with a full cage, i also ditched the fiberglass front bumper and bent up a 1 3/4" tube bumper.
    No matter how hard you try...you cant fix stupid!!!

    If you build it right...it will turn left!!!

    www.raceidaho.com

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Podunk, Idaho
    Posts
    35

    Default

    WOW!!!! Great suggestions. Keem 'em coming.

    I'm making my list...
    Caution: I spin without warning.

  8. #8

    Default

    I'm not that far from you. How about a two season old roller. Best of everything!

  9. #9

    Default

    My Pinto was the same...didnt take hardly any weight out of it.Definitely didnt take any out from the rear. It was like Car62's..bout 1940lbs without me. took alot of lead to get it to 2500!!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    178

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by englertracing View Post
    Put the rear hoop up on top of the rear cross member that all the suspension mounts to so u can put your seat all the way back there.

    Ditch the stock bumpers there crazy heavy.

    Connect the front and rear frame sections to make a wicked stiff car.

    Long rf arm also make the arms level in the front.

    Put as much angle in your rear arms as possiblble.

    Cut cut cut these midrange are hard to get to minimum weight if u can ditch the frame after the shock mounts do it.
    Can you elaborate on the rear arm angles, which way do you angle them and why as much angle as possible?

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