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Thread: Stacked Springs

  1. #21
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    Sep 2007
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    jedclampit: this is for a right front app. were thinking 300 top and 700 bottom with stop nut.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Batavia, OH
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    Quote Originally Posted by CHUMBA View Post
    jedclampit: this is for a right front app. were thinking 300 top and 700 bottom with stop nut.
    That 300 is your problem. You are probably going to need a 6 or 7 inch spring. Good luck finding one.
    Modern Day Wedge Racing
    Florence -2
    Atomic - 1

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    133

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    yes i know thats why I was looking for spring compresser, and also wondering, what two springs most were useing? and if Iam way off on what Iam wanting to try. Thanks for replys CHUMBA.

  4. #24
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    Sep 2007
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    I have run 400 on top of 400 and it was loose coming of thats why I thought about going stifer on bottom, the tracks I run on bad slick!! I have played with adj on stop nut, but still loose off.

  5. #25
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    May 2007
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    Batavia, OH
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    Quote Originally Posted by CHUMBA View Post
    I have run 400 on top of 400 and it was loose coming of thats why I thought about going stifer on bottom, the tracks I run on bad slick!! I have played with adj on stop nut, but still loose off.
    Well then just stiffen the bottom.
    Modern Day Wedge Racing
    Florence -2
    Atomic - 1

  6. #26
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    Sep 2007
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    We have but the more I stiffin the bottom the closer the top 400 5" spring is getting to coil bind, if I go to a 6" long spring I cant get the bottom cone on. Thats why I was asking about spring compresser. anyone know of anyone making one? or a way to get the spring compressed to get cone on? Thanks again for all replys.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    1,380

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    chumba,use two 7in springs,you may have to work a little to get them on but they will go on by hand,we use hypercoil springs on ohlins shocks or a 7 and a 5 or 6 and a 4in spring i would not worry about the coil bind because it should hit the lock nut before coil bind if adjusted right but you can always check it on a shock/spring rater before putting it on the car
    Last edited by grt74; 10-04-2011 at 06:59 AM.

  8. #28
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    Sep 2007
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    133

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    grt74 you got PM

  9. #29
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    Nov 2009
    Location
    Winchester,TN
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    227

  10. #30
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    Sep 2007
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    133

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    Please explane how this combo would work?? I dont get the 600 on top of the 500. pm me if you dont want the whole world knowing. thanks chumba.

  11. #31

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    Chumba, clear your PMs.

  12. #32
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Florida
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    449

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    STACKED SPRING RATES

    400 / 175 = 122

    400 / 200 = 133

    400 / 225 = 144

    400 / 250 = 154

    400 / 275 = 163

    400 / 300 = 171

    400 / 325 = 179

    400 / 375 = 194

    400 / 400 = 200


    Formula:

    Top spring Top spring
    X (divided by) + = Total Spring Rate
    Bottom spring Bottom spring

    Example:

    400 X 225 = 90,000

    400 + 225 = 625

    90,000 divided by 625 = 144

  13. #33
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    133

    Cool

    PMs cleared, I think

  14. #34
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    n.c.
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    67

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    Quote Originally Posted by CHUMBA View Post
    PMs cleared, I think
    you guys have alot to learn, hypercoil will get you lentgh you need, get you a checker and check stack rates with different nut settings,you will be shocked, and when you run it make sure you have a travel indicator on outside of shock.

  15. #35
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    133

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    Teach us old wise one! thats why Iam asking questions on here trying to learn, dont have budget to travel 4 hours rent track and just try things, I have called chassie builder, he dosent run it. and wont give advise on it! PM me if your are interested in helping. CHUMBA

  16. #36
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    n.c.
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    not trying to be smart,it just takes testing, every driver is different,how much rebound you run in right front makes huge difference, most people will try it and run it if it works that night if not they wont adjust it just take it off.one last thing figure out how much rf travel your car gets when its at its best then make sure your stack gets same travel then adjust to liking--------- its really difficult to explain all the different adjustments.

  17. #37
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    133

    Unhappy

    Not calling you a smart ass!!! Just trying to get as much info as I can. we have ran it our last three races, and are going to continue to work with it, I think we have figured out we are running too much gap, thats the only direction we have been adj, when we start raceing again we are going to go less gap, but that will be in april 2012. so Iam just trying to learn more about the complete set up so we can be close. thank you for info, and again sorry for implying you were a smart ass, not my intention!!
    Chumba.

  18. #38

    Default

    A lot of guys run around a 400-600# 4 inch spring with anywhere from a 350-450# 8 inch spring on the dual stage stuff. Brian @ Integra recommended that we start with a 600/400# to start out.
    Last edited by BDR40; 11-18-2011 at 10:23 PM.

  19. #39
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    133

    Angry

    thats funny 2 years ago I ask him about doul stage stack spring on right front and he said he knew nothing about it. that was after I spent around $1000.00 getting shocks repaired & revalved.

  20. #40
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    307

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    We start at a 600# top and 400# bottom and put 3/8" to 5/8" gap in the lock out ring at ride height. The best way to figure gap, if you can't test, is to record your RF dynamic ride height with your slick RF set up in. Usually you will soften RF for slick. Record your compression travel on the RF.
    Record your shock eye to eye measurement at ride height.
    Take your spring and shock off the car and put it into a spring rater and compress it to ride height and then dynamic ride height and record those two load readings.
    This will give you the load the spring is supporting at its maximum in the corner and load at ride height.
    Then stack up your springs with the lock out and adjust them so that your spring eye to eye measurement and your load at ride height come back to the original measurements.
    Then you can compress it and start playing around with the dynamic side.
    If you want to raise the RF ride height in the middle of the corner, take gap out of your lock out adjuster.
    If you want more travel on to the RF before it stops, put a larger gap into your RF setup.
    This set up is not a cure all deal. It is good if you know how to work with it. Experiment and have fun.

    Kevin

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