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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    224

    Default fox body front weight jacks

    can anyone tell me how they put weight jack bolts on the front of a fox body mustang. the frame rail is right above top spring mount and i dont think you should cut into frame. any info would be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    On. Canada
    Posts
    430

    Default

    ive seen it done from under the a arm than you could use rear spring
    62 mini mod

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    1,338

    Default

    Bore through the frame and weld in 1 1/2 tube the box around where you cut. Mine never gave me any problems doing it that way. Weld the plates to the K-Frame for the bolts and cut a hole in the strut tower. took me about 4 hours to do it and it worked fine and never bent.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    224

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Headhunter View Post
    Bore through the frame and weld in 1 1/2 tube the box around where you cut. Mine never gave me any problems doing it that way. Weld the plates to the K-Frame for the bolts and cut a hole in the strut tower. took me about 4 hours to do it and it worked fine and never bent.
    that is just how we did it and it looks great and i think will work even better. thanx for the info great help!!!!!!!!!!

  5. #5

    Default

    could one of you guys post pics please

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    224

    Default

    send me your email and i will send you some pics

  7. #7

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    323

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by r3tracing View Post
    send me your email and i will send you some pics
    Me too, please. hicntry@usa.net

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Post Falls,ID
    Posts
    1,579

    Default

    i use the T-bird LCA on the RF...so i weld the nut to a plate,and welt the plate to the top of the K-member AFTER i trim away the front of the stock spring "pocket"..now the spring is straight up and down like it should be.

    On the LF i simply drill between the 2 bolts that attach the K-member to the frame rail,the factory already was kind enough to put in a 1" crush sleeve,i simply weld my jack nut to the top of that sleeve and the sides of the frame rail. on the LF dont forget to take a grinder,plasma,torch,whatever and remove the spring "crown" from the K-member so the spring cup doesnt bottom out.

    same thing for the rears,get it to ride height and cut out the stock spring pocket and weld the jack assembly so the spring is straight up and down.
    Last edited by car62; 10-21-2011 at 02:42 PM.
    No matter how hard you try...you cant fix stupid!!!

    If you build it right...it will turn left!!!

    www.raceidaho.com

  10. #10

    Default

    I have the longer lca on now and not a big fan going back to stock a arm and going to use camber plates and camber bolts thanks for the pics

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    1,338

    Default

    We could not change spring location or use the longer arm so that was the only way to do it. Worked great. Dont know if the way I do it is the way you call lazy or not but it fit the rules I had to go by and worked perfect. One thing I did forget to say was to cut the crown off the K-frame.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Post Falls,ID
    Posts
    1,579

    Default

    was not trying to put you down...didnt know thats what the rules allowed.
    No matter how hard you try...you cant fix stupid!!!

    If you build it right...it will turn left!!!

    www.raceidaho.com

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    224

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by car62 View Post
    thats prettymuch the lazy way to do it..and quite stupid in my opinion.

    i use the T-bird LCA on the RF...so i weld the nut to a plate,and welt the plate to the top of the K-member AFTER i trim away the front of the stock spring "pocket"..now the spring is straight up and down like it should be.

    On the LF i simply drill between the 2 bolts that attach the K-member to the frame rail,the factory already was kind enough to put in a 1" crush sleeve,i simply weld my jack nut to the top of that sleeve and the sides of the frame rail. on the LF dont forget to take a grinder,plasma,torch,whatever and remove the spring "crown" from the K-member so the spring cup doesnt bottom out.

    same thing for the rears,get it to ride height and cut out the stock spring pocket and weld the jack assembly so the spring is straight up and down.
    i really dont know why you can call someone lazy and stupid when he is trying to help someone with how he did it. if you have a different way of doing it then you are welcome to post it. but just because its not your way does not make it stupid and doing his way it still took me about 4 or 5 hours and he said it took him about 4 hours also, so i do not know how that is lazy. actually it takes a great deal of work. i would like to thank headhunter for all his info as it was a great help. it is to bad people cant just try and help without being so sarcastic. our rules are just like his, everything has to be in stock location.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Post Falls,ID
    Posts
    1,579

    Default

    you are right,i have fixed the post...sometimes its not good to post on here when you are in a bad mood to begin with...LOL

    to those that i offended,i do apologize.
    No matter how hard you try...you cant fix stupid!!!

    If you build it right...it will turn left!!!

    www.raceidaho.com

  15. #15

    Default Need some Pics Of this

    Will you please send me a few pic of the way you did them

    Thanks
    towmatter007@gmail.com
    Last edited by demoman7; 06-19-2012 at 02:34 PM. Reason: wrong email

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    224

    Default

    pictures are sent

  17. #17
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Post Falls,ID
    Posts
    1,579

    Default

    send me some too please,im getting ready to put jacks in another car...
    chaney2333@roadrunner.com
    No matter how hard you try...you cant fix stupid!!!

    If you build it right...it will turn left!!!

    www.raceidaho.com

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Willard KY
    Posts
    170

    Default

    I would like pics also. guildsracing@yahoo.com

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    224

    Default

    all pics sent

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    302

    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by r3tracing View Post
    i really dont know why you can call someone lazy and stupid when he is trying to help someone with how he did it. if you have a different way of doing it then you are welcome to post it. but just because its not your way does not make it stupid and doing his way it still took me about 4 or 5 hours and he said it took him about 4 hours also, so i do not know how that is lazy. actually it takes a great deal of work. i would like to thank headhunter for all his info as it was a great help. it is to bad people cant just try and help without being so sarcastic. our rules are just like his, everything has to be in stock location.
    very well put!!

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