body building tips?

[11jcr51]

how do you make the nose/fenders/hoods look like they do on alot of the professionals cars "dished" in if i may say. Does anyone have measurement of these things? anything will help thanks

[talclipse]

You put bend in your front cross bar and the front deck bar (depending how closely you are tech'ed will depend on the amount you can run). Then you put a break in your front fender floppers so that the stand up more vertically. Also, a lot of guys mount spring steel/ aluminum flat inside the flopper on the back open end to get it to keep its shape and not flatten out.

[EAMShater]

The part he means bending up is he area of the front bar that goes across the deck where the fenders sit on each side and the area on the bar in fron of the hood that the fenders sit on. I also have a shrinker and stretcher and on my fender i shrink the outside until the fenders run uphill from the deck and i only do the insides of the fenders until they come out level with the deck. that way the outside of each fender is higher and it dishes in towards the hood. If you do not have a shrinker tool a simple crimper will do the trick. just be sure to add a piece in for bracing on the inside because it tends to weaken it alot. I also like to slide my fenders out in the front so they stick out farther and create a little more downforce. it looks stupid but i dont care what it looks like so long as it catches the air and keeps it on top of my car. when putting on the flares be sure and have the filler panels made and the fenders on so you can get them on at the correct spot. everytime i put em on before i make the fenders they dont lay right.. but on the right side i try and lay it a little flatter so that the air will glow across it because in my opinion the new style md3 flares block air from getting to the right side of the fender and filler panel a little if they are flared up alot. I actually run the old style on the rf and the new style on the lf and stand the lf up as much as possible to catch as much air as i can and keep it on top of the car. It's just about catching the air that you have and keeping it pushing down and not letting it fall off the side of the car. make it as wide as you possible can without making it too illegal. alot of it depends on your tech guy at your track. no one checks center of the hubs to the front or rears of the cars at local tracks that i go to. they just check the spoiler heights so another thing i like to do is stretch the back of the deck back and lay it back about 3 to 4 more inches. just be sure you dont go over the allowed height of the deck. I have also conteplated stretching my nose rack out some as well to get extra surface area on that. on grt's and rockets it is very easy to do i have a bwrc and it would take alot of work because of the way the racks are built. I think air weighs like .14 lbs so multiply that by the surface area on your car and that will give you the amount of downforce you are generating if i'm not mistaken. and on the sides of the car i like to blow the left side out as much as possible. the back of my left door is about 6 inches outside my tire and the front is about even with the tire maybe a little in. my right side is angled out a good bit at the botton so that when the car runs into the turn and rolls up it is standing at 90* with the racing surface and the wheels holes are as small as possible to help keep air from under the car and i have a fairly good bit of plastic so that when i run into the corner the plastic will drag and seal if off completely to the ground. dont worry you cant put too much. the track will eat away what it doesnt want on there. If you dont run a valance on your nose you are wasting alot of time about worrying about the air on top because your just packing it all right back under what it just sucked out. try and get the lf as low as possible and get the rf to where it runs in and just maybe touches just a hair or is just off the ground at full travel. I have to run a bump on mine to keep if from folding mine under but i run a standard 375 spring. anyways i hope this helps some..

[jbh25]

I would like to here more on this anyone

[chrisw21_2000]

I always fold the top of the nose down and bend the bar that holds the front of the hood up on the ends. Brake the edges or the floppers say 2 inches from the edge at the top to nothing at the headlight. Then bend the outer edge up and put aluminum stock bent to shape behind it. This will dish out between the headlights over the filler panel and keep the air from spilling over the sides.

[EAMShater]

Exactly. Make the whole thing a dish to keep it from spilling over

[rollinsmoke]

anyone have any pictures??

[EAMShater]

I have several of my car but Idk how to post exactly. If you have a face book look up Russ Ogletree I live in Phenix city Alabama. My profile pic is me and my gf. I got on a green shirt. Just send a friend request.

[mab18]

Kind of hard to see but I put small bend lines from the corners near the headlights to the bend in the support bar

[EAMShater]

That is a clean looking body there. I see it says mastersbuilt but it sure looks like a bwrc deck and (not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)pit lol. Most mastersbuilts still have that mid 90s style (not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)pit with the squared up look in front of the driver

[mab18]

Thank you. It is a Mastersbilt Gen X we bought it as a bare frame and went from there. I have been building our cars for about 6 years now. I like the non dropdeck style the cowl in front of the driver is from Bernheisel (Lazer chassis) its alot easier than making one from aluminum and looks great.

[JJ128]

mab18, I like the '66/'67 B body in the back!