Engine doesn't like 6000+ RPMs

[oilslick]

Okay, so I run a ford 2.3L with a 2.14 / 3.08 drive train set up. This is supposedly what the other guys say they run and they swear they never get out of second gear. Twice now when practicing do the same thing they do, my RPMs run over 6,000 RPMs in 2nd gear and then POP, the valve cover breather flies off and next thing I know I'm covered in oil. So really I have 2 questions here: 1) Is running 6000+ RPMs non-stop going to kill the engine or is it better to run in 3rd gear between 4500 and 5000. 2) What do I do to keep the breathers from blowing off?

Thanks

[Milford Motorsports]

Did you block off the crankcase vent?The engine is building too much internal pressure,bad rings?If the crankcase vent is blocked,you will need to open it up vent it to a catch can.If the engine continues to pump oil out you will probably need to tear down the engine and freshen it.With proper ring seal and good engine venting you should be able to turn 8500+ without loosing any oil.

[TR32]

You need to your cam specs to know what rpm's you should be turning. Also, you should find out what the other racers are using for a final gear ratio. Your final gearing is 6.59 (2.14 x 3.08). If your running a stock head/cam your not going to get more than 5 or 6000 rpm.

[oilslick]

Well, not sure which direction to go. Ended up that I blew the engine. #3 cylinder has nice size hole it. So, with that said, looking for a 2.3 somewhere near Woodstock, Ga. Thanks.

[oilslick]

Okay, so I also posted something about overheating, let's say I had oil coming out of the breather on the valve cover, and I do have the crankcase vent open, what the heck is the problem. We rebuild the bottom end. I'm at a loss.

[steveshawjr]

sounds like detention to me .. probably caused by to much timing and not enough fuel .

its obv that your oil problem is the big burnt hole in the piston witch would be detonation usual caused by to much timing lack of fuel witch would also cause your over heating

[Milford Motorsports]

When rebuilding your engine always make sure that the #1 piston is at TDC and the pointer is also at TDC on the crank pulley.Race Engineering,esslinger have their pulleys marked differently.Ford stock pulleys also have the same problem.You must have the correct pointer for that pulley.I only post this option because I had an engine brought to me that just wouldn't run right.The owner replaced the Race Engineering pulley with an Esslinger but kept the R.E. pointer and tried to retime the engine.

[oilslick]

Thanks guys. I'll keep working with it and keep you posted. Do you other guys have this issue often?

[demoman7]

Check ur PM's

[dannyracer6]

If you have your #1 piston in the right position, and your cam is degreed right and the distributor is at #1, then you can reindex your crank pully where ever the pointer is pointing as #1. The pulley does not care what it is as long as the engine is timed right. I have a pulley that tdc is on the oposite side from the pulley pointer. I just changed the pointer to the other side and changed the tdc mark. I used a degree wheel to be sure I was in the right place with the piston and the cam. Most stock crank pulleys have the timeing mark on the drivers side of the engine, and the aftermarket ones are on the other side. To repeat, it does not matter as long as you are degreed properly at tdc. Just make a new mark on the pulley and use your pointer where it is.