Engine Suggestions

[oilslick]

Blew my second 2.3L ford engine. Gonna find a block to but everything back on, head is in good shape. Trying to do this on the low budget side so need some quick thoughts:

1) Any significant benefit of not using stock crank shaft? If yes, what is an inexpensive one to use?
2) What harmonic balancer and water pump pulleys should I use an where can I get a set?
3) Where can I find a serpentine belt (not running any other pulleys other than two mentioned above?
4) Can't stroke the engine (maximum bore an stroke are :Bore-3.841 Stroke -3.126) or have domed pistons, so what other modifications do you guys suggest?
5) Flywheel suggestions?
6) All other suggestion accepted and appreciated....

I run at Dixie Speedway in Woodstock, Ga. Use the link below in your browser to see the rules.

http://www.dixiespeedway.com/Uploads/DixiePony.pdf

[Milford Motorsports]

There is no real benefit to an aftermarket crank,running a stock stroke unless you plan on turning 9000+ rpm(yea some do)You can purchase a crank kit on ebay for a very reasonable price.I would recommend OEM Clevite ok Keith Black pistons,( cheap and very durable).Stock rods will work fine and save you quite a bit of money over a 5.7 set up.Check the head,completely disasemble it.Make sure you don't have any bent valves or other damage.Very seldom you can blow an engine and not do damage to the head.At the least you will have a clean and reconditioned head to install on your new short block.

[Milford Motorsports]

Just read your rules,not much you can do that isn't illegal.

[jimbbski]

I will try to answer question #3.

If your're only running a water pump and no alternator the easiest way is to make a mount that you can bolt a belt tentioner to. It will keep the belt tight and allow quick removal.

On my engine i have to run an alternator but we used a modified stock mount and installed a turnbuckle to tention the belt and removed the spring tentioner.

[Dan32]

Just read your rules,not much you can do that isn't illegal.

you can run any rod any crank any weight as long as it bores and strokes correct we have won lots of races at this track to be even close to running up front you will spend $6000 on long block we are flying up there! im going back this week love that place just cant pull there every week for $150 to win! and we turn 9000 rpms

[Racedad]

If there was any sort of bearing failure in your engine there most likely are metal particles in your oil passages in your head.Take out all the pipe plugs from the ends of the head and use a bore brush and some hot soapy water.You will have another engine failure quickly if you don't clean them out.
PS $6000 long blocks is sheer lunacy for $150 to win. Stock crank and rods and spend more time on the setup and less $$$$$ on the motor is our method.

[dougskewl]

My first question would be as to why the engine blew. Then figure out what needs done so it doesn't happen again. Are blown engines common at your track? Locally I only see a handfull a year.

[Dan32]

If there was any sort of bearing failure in your engine there most likely are metal particles in your oil passages in your head.Take out all the pipe plugs from the ends of the head and use a bore brush and some hot soapy water.You will have another engine failure quickly if you don't clean them out.
PS $6000 long blocks is sheer lunacy for $150 to win. Stock crank and rods and spend more time on the setup and less $$$$$ on the motor is our method.

my car is on a rail no problems handling at all run it flat foot all the way around and turn 8800 to 9000 all night depending on track! theres really fast cars up there! a stock rod motor want stay on lead lap if it goes green 15 laps!

[Dan32]

My first question would be as to why the engine blew. Then figure out what needs done so it doesn't happen again. Are blown engines common at your track? Locally I only see a handfull a year.

no just a few guys!

[little302]

I.d mill the head as much as ur multi keyway cam gear will allow up to .150. I use an adjustable, so Im not familiar with those... You are allowed to unshroud the valves with a cutter... Id run one down the throat behind the valve too..ARP rod bolts for insurance, and lighten the heck out of the rotating assembly, and balance it..Im partial to the Weber dgv carbs.. I believe they flow less than the specified 350 cfm..but they will outperform....So you should be ok, if they allow it..a Thunder Valley Header, and get the chassis RIGHT!.. Scale.. rescale... set the front end, adjust according to tire temps etc.. There is a WHOLE lot more to a car than motor..