wont turn going in

[badfast47]

I have a metric clip with nova lowers using a 650 RF spring, 4/6 shock, 600 LF spring 5/3 shock. LR 7/2 shock in front, 200 spring in back on a slider 4 bar floated. RR 3 link set up clamped. Rod is at about 5 degrees up. 200 spring on top and 94 shock behind rear end. I'm using a shorty bar at pinion and 3 inches of rake to the frame. There is about a 1/4 inch of lead in the RR. The car wont turn enough when i enter the corner. It can be very unpredictable because once i DO get it to turn
(if it doesn't push) it doesn't give me the bite i need till i get straight. See any thing i can do to help this ?

[Hagen14t]

How much bite?

[xxxmod]

Square up the rear end and put in 4 degrees caster split.

[TCmod]

I have a metric clip with nova lowers using a 650 RF spring, 4/6 shock, 600 LF spring 5/3 shock. LR 7/2 shock in front, 200 spring in back on a slider 4 bar floated. RR 3 link set up clamped. Rod is at about 5 degrees up. 200 spring on top and 94 shock behind rear end. I'm using a shorty bar at pinion and 3 inches of rake to the frame. There is about a 1/4 inch of lead in the RR. The car wont turn enough when i enter the corner. It can be very unpredictable because once i DO get it to turn
(if it doesn't push) it doesn't give me the bite i need till i get straight. See any thing i can do to help this ?

I would trail the RR just by looking at what you got here. I really wouldn't worry about forward bite till you can get you entry fixed first.

[OCrace2]

I've had that problem before. Take the short bar and put on a jbar, dont need tons of angle. It will corner a lot better. Also go softer on the RF spring. Either LF 650 RF600 or just soften RF to 600. Trailing the rear end will kill forward, no need for that. Jbar should make the corner a lot smoother and since youll go through the corner well, you will have more momentum, fw bite etc good luck

[washeduptoo]

Your rr bar is 4-5 inches longer than lr bars? I would swap the front springs, we also ran the rr trailed .25-.5 compared to lr. Also do the caster split. The Jbar will also make the car easier to handle. Just some suggestions and good luck

[Mosidebite]

When I ran my Hoffman car 4 bar/ 2-bar the biggest thing that made it turn was RR bar angle. We ran 5 degrees to start with too but learned that when these cars roll over as far as they do with only 5 degrees of upward angle the bar levels out and sometimes ends up past level shortening the right side wheel base up and makes it TIGHT. While all that is happening you also have no drive in the right rear due to no angle left to drive off the right rear. Jump it up to 10* at ride height the next time the track is good and hooked up and go from there.

[thfleshman]

I for one agree with the softer rf spring. It will help loosen the car in and better corner entry= better exit. Once you have fixed the corner entry , and your still lacking side bite, raise your straight bar on the frame side. Helps(in my oppinion) corner exit as well as long as it dont tighten it up too bad .the j bar is much smoother than a straight bar, but seems to me you can get a ton more drive and side bite with a straight bar. also you could try something if you are at the track and hurting on time if you want to loosen the car up something as simple as a deeper offset on rr (example: if you are running a 3 off swap to a 2 off) or add a wheel spacer to rr. You could also try a deeper offset on rf or wheel spacer b/c in essence that's all you basically are doing is lowering spring rate when you take the wheel further away from the spring just my 2 cents

[racin6mod]

I agree with the others go to a j-bar and swap the front springs. I would add put the spring on the rr on a slider or coil over in front of the axle the spring on top maybe the reason the car is unpredictable from center out. that set up works well with a z-link but I had the same issue with a 4 bar set up on the rr once I switched to spring in front the car had good forward bite and the car was consistant.

[HRJ]

Are you entering the corner on the gas or off?

[powerslide]

I for one agree with the softer rf spring. It will help loosen the car in and better corner entry= better exit. Once you have fixed the corner entry , and your still lacking side bite, raise your straight bar on the frame side. Helps(in my oppinion) corner exit as well as long as it dont tighten it up too bad .the j bar is much smoother than a straight bar, but seems to me you can get a ton more drive and side bite with a straight bar. also you could try something if you are at the track and hurting on time if you want to loosen the car up something as simple as a deeper offset on rr (example: if you are running a 3 off swap to a 2 off) or add a wheel spacer to rr. You could also try a deeper offset on rf or wheel spacer b/c in essence that's all you basically are doing is lowering spring rate when you take the wheel further away from the spring just my 2 cents

Please explain to us how a softer RF spring loosens corner entry.

Original poster.
If your Right side wheel base is shorter than the left i would get that fixed and go try again. I would try it straight up to 1/4in longer on the right side. HRJ does pose a good question. If you are trying to enter on the gas on a tacky track it is very likely not wanting to turn try coming completely out of the gas.

It would also be nice to know your %'s and how much driver weighs

[Mosidebite]

Just a quick question...how many have ran 4 bar left with spring behind and RR on a clamped up 2- link?

[washeduptoo]

If your talking about rr on axle tube with the spring behind lr, we have. Didn't run it very long before going 4-4, couple of races. We did run the rr bar about 10 degrees.

[OCrace2]

Please explain to us how a softer RF spring loosens corner entry.

I wouldn't say it really loosens entry...it makes the car have more sidebite which is what the poster seemed to need and from my experience gives the car a lot better feel going through the corner.
The reason it works>when you go into the corner, weight transfers to the front of the car. If the RF spring is softer less weight will transfer from the RR tire to the RF tire due to the spring being softer, therefore you will have less wedge during the corner and more sidebite.



All the suggestions seem reasonable but for the original poster....just try one thing at a time, I wouldn't suggest getting carried away changing bar lengths and your RR trail. NO QUESTION a Jbar will help smooth out the corner. Short bars make you "feel" like you are getting a lot of drive but it doesn't matter if you cant get through the corner. Let us know how it works, good luck

[Dirtrunner35]

On my stock car 3 link, I had the RR trailing arm lower on the chassis than I did on the axle to limit rear steer on that side. At least square the axle up, thrust line to the left will tighten the car on entry. A lower short bar will give you more chassis roll but less weight transfer and will make a tighter car. I had mine at 10 inches. It all depends on the rest of your set up.

[Mosidebite]

If your talking about rr on axle tube with the spring behind lr, we have. Didn't run it very long before going 4-4, couple of races. We did run the rr bar about 10 degrees.

I remember talking about this set up with you a while back. I don't think many have played with this and know the ins and outs of it, hate for a guy to try a million other things when I know one thing has to be changed before he is gonna be fast.

[chapa9]

For what's it worth I run a 2 link with spring on top RR and my car seemed to like more angle on the RR bar. Expicially when I made some changes and was rolling on RR a lot more. I know it doesn't exactly go with what ya got but just giving ya some feedback.

[washeduptoo]

I understand, your probably right. He needs to try one thing at a time, first I would try trailing the rr, next moving the rr bar up, etc. Good luck.

[badfast47]

One thing i did do this week was take out the biscuit bar and put back in the spring loaded bar. Never had trouble with forward bite till i did that. Rained out today so i cant test it till next week. My first thought was to raise the RR trailing arm and i will change that. The RR spring in front was something else that crossed my mind. I have read on here the 4-2 set up i have can be very tight and that might help loosen it up. I'm entering off the gas wanting the car to turn by itself or using very little break. I have learned my lesson about changing too many things at one time for sure. I think first i will raise the RR trailing arm up and i will still have the option of putting the spring in front on a slider and sticking that RR wheel out a more but i think i will go with trailing arm first. Thanks everyone and i'll get back on here next week let you know what happened.

[LM14]

I'll argue your front springs are too soft. You're not planting the front tires on entry, you are either bottoming the RF a-frame and sliding the tire or there's not enough resistance to plant that tire.

You have a metric stub and you're running chevelle stub spring rates, that's also where the 600 rf suggestions are headed, chevelle numbers. Go to a 700 RF/650LF or even a 750/700. Square the rearend and loose the straight bar and get a j-bar on it.

JMO
SPark