Chevelle clip, RF frame corner hitting the ground

[portmod7]

So, I've been around mods for a number of years. Started out in metric clip cars and it seemed like they were rockets on the heavy tracks. Then the trend went towards the Chevelle clip, they seem to be better suited for dry slick and that's the way most tracks get for the feature these days. But, there's still the heat race and those nights when even the feature is tacky. On a tacky track, every Chevelle clip car I've had bottoms the RF frame corner on entry (not EVERY time, but you know what I mean), and through the middle if you hit a hole or rut. I'm convinced it's just a "fact of life" with a Chevelle clip and have always just driven through it, but was wondering if any of you all have found something that works to fix it? I'm helping a driver this year who drives in pretty hard and he REALLY doesn't like it when the frame bottoms.

I've tried up to a 700lb RF spring with no success, not to mention it doesn't do you any favors anywhere else on the track. Also tried stiffer compression on the RF shock, which helps, but still doesn't cure the problem. Thought about sucking up the limit chain on the LR and raising the lower bar angle to keep the steer in it, but I'm worried that's going to kill too much forward bite and I'm really not sure that's even going to help me much. Also thought about raising the ride height, but I'm pretty sure by the time you got the thing where it wouldn't hit the ground, your front geometry would be so screwed up it wouldn't matter if the frame was bottoming or not.

Is it just a "fact of life" with a Chevelle, or is there something that can be done?

[racinjj]

Try bump stops or raise your ride height.

[portmod7]

Try bump stops or raise your ride height.

Thanks. I should have clarified, IMCA car, no bumpstop allowed.

[charcoal01]

Weld a piece of 1/4 inch plate on the a arm where it comes in contact with the frame. It's not a cure but it seems to help.

[TeamGRT12x]

I've never had much problem bottoming out. I have ran as soft as 450 on the RF and with the exception of a few bumps, it doesn't slam into the track. When you put a stiffer spring in it just delays the impact. How much chain do you have in the left rear now? I like 5" to start on the IMCA tire.
Ride height, thru the body mount holes behind the RF and LF tire should be anywhere from 9 3/4" to 10"

[portmod7]

I've never had much problem bottoming out. I have ran as soft as 450 on the RF and with the exception of a few bumps, it doesn't slam into the track. When you put a stiffer spring in it just delays the impact. How much chain do you have in the left rear now? I like 5" to start on the IMCA tire.
Ride height, thru the body mount holes behind the RF and LF tire should be anywhere from 9 3/4" to 10"

I've never measured at the body mounts, always where the chassis mfg. specified. I'll have to check that out when I scale this week. I know the front lower control arm bolts in the crossmember on this car are at 7-5/8" at their center.

Right now the chain will let the LR hike 4-1/2".

[johnny v]

raise the Ride height to center bolt( Lower AA) to ground 8" LF... 7 7/8 on RF.....

that's what our chevelle clipped Shaw is set ......

[HRJ]

Right now the chain will let the LR hike 4-1/2".

Yeah, suck that chain up at least a 1/2".

I mistakenly added too much droop (an extra 5/8") earlier this year and it killed drive, over-rotated (which confused me because of the bar angles I was at) and absolutely buried the RF to the point the a-arm was dinging the shock body.

[TeamGRT12x]

On the IMCA Hoosier 4 1/2-5" is about right on chain drop with a pull bar. It all changes with a lift arm though.

What kind of chassis is this?

[TeamGRT12x]

I would also ask, what RF wheel offset are you running?

I have bottomed out a RF with a 550 in it and 4" of drop. I don't think I'd be as concerned with the RF bottoming out as I would with how it gets thru the middle of the corner. Like you said, the stiff RF really doesn't help the car anywhere else. You may look at your engine height as well. I can bury a 700 by raising the engine a full inch.

[portmod7]

It's one of Taylor's cars, a 2010. I ran real well with mine the last two years, even with the frame corner in the dirt. I'm out of a car this year, but this guy I'm helping got one. It's got a 2-off on the RF. I was thinking a 3 might help keep the frame off the ground, but I hate juggling offsets.

I may try raising the ride height up a little. The engine location is also something to look at. I may lower it a little and see if that helps, it should, glad you mentioned that!

The car I had got through the middle great. Like I said, I ran good with mine, so I know I'm not looking to make any huge changes. Lowering the engine an inch may be just what it needs, although the track we're running does have some decent bank to it, so the engine height may not play a huge role, but there's no doubt it should help.

[Flyin Iowan]

500 550 600, i can bottom them all out. RF frame height 7" or 8"...bottom out. I find myself doing it on fast heavy race tracks from dumping the throttle on entry. Maybe try easing off the gas? But does it really hurt the performance? Mine doesnt so I dont see a problem except for the fans in turn 1 that get hit by a 10lbs chunck of mud from my car

[portmod7]

500 550 600, i can bottom them all out. RF frame height 7" or 8"...bottom out. I find myself doing it on fast heavy race tracks from dumping the throttle on entry. Maybe try easing off the gas? But does it really hurt the performance? Mine doesnt so I dont see a problem except for the fans in turn 1 that get hit by a 10lbs chunck of mud from my car

I'm right there with you. Just trying to accommodate this driver I'm helping. Thanks for the input!

[texas racer]

That is just the way it is runing a chevelle clip. When it rolls over the frame rail hits the ground. They would raise the R/F frame rails a couple years ago, but that is not legal anymore.

[TALON75]

Raise your ride height, our shaw runs at 8 1/4 . Dont worry about geomerty, you dont race the car at ride height, the geometry is set with the dynamic movement in mind

[Dirtrunner35]

I had a early 2000 ellis mod , 2600 lbs, 750, 650, in the front and never bottomed out with a chevelle clip. If I drove in off the gas my brother said the Rf really went down allot and on the gas a little going in worked allot better.

[OnTheStruts]

Solved this issue with going to a lighter RR spring. More transferred to the rear to keep the frame out of the track.

[mod88s]

Surprised nobody has mentioned the brake floater. Do you run a brake floater on LR? IF so, drop it down a hole or 2 on the frame.

[7uptruckracer]

I know Nick Hoffman has his original Elite sitting in the garage with the RF rail used up, and he has Ambrose's Crew Chief in his garage, I'd be willing to bet if that's the only compromise in that one track condition just let it eat. Being you can't raise the rails so be it. We have a Chevelle Clip car it hasn't happened yet but when the driver gets his feet wet I'm sure it will, If you limiting with a Chain why would the floater matter the LR isn't going to come up any more or any less with floater bar angle, you just changing your given load for the same amount of available drop

[charcoal01]

I disagree with that 7up. I've experienced exactly what the other guy was talking about with the brake floater causing the rf to bottom out and it was at different chain lengths. If your car is too tight and you're Jamming the brakes to turn it and you've got a lot of upward angle in the brake floater it's going to bottom that rf out all day long when the track is heavy. You can adjust the chain all you want and it will still bottom the rf because of how fast you're loading the front end with the brake.