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Thread: LR Hike/drop

  1. #1

    Default LR Hike/drop

    Does allowing the LR to drop more tighten the car (added bite) or loosen the car (added roll steer)?
    With what track conditions do you change increase/decrease the drop?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    197

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    according to the experts and books.... having too much droop or hike doesn't add any more bite....just a little more roll steer .....
    At some point, its just shoving the frame higher... not adding any more forward drive on the chassis.... so they say set the hike by setting the upper bar angle at 44 to 46* at full droop....by adjusting your chain to that degree of upper bar angle.....

  3. #3

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    im new to dirt racing and i am working on this hike drop stuff too bernie at b&s to me i need 40degree but i ran out of shock travel so i got an extention on the way but when i took the shock loose and lift the left side of the car the weight jack comes out of the spring b4 40 degree what am i doing wrong here im at 19degree at ride hight

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    197

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    IMHO-
    All the large drop and chain lengths are being based on the idea you have either coil over eliminators or coil overs...... normal 4 bar setup stuff......

    these set ups come off the spring all the time... LR and RR.....there are tons of video showing this all over u-tube....

    Tell us what type of car and rear suspension you are dealing with......
    Last edited by johnny v; 05-17-2012 at 07:40 PM.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by johnny v View Post
    IMHO-
    All the large drop and chain lengths are being based on the idea you have either coil over eliminators or coil overs...... normal 4 bar setup stuff......

    these set ups come off the spring all the time... LR and RR.....there are tons of video showing this all over u-tube....

    Tell us what type of car and rear suspension you are dealing with......
    b&s modified spring in front lr spring on top rr 4 bar with brake bar i have no idea what a coil over eliminators even look like but i know i dont have coil overs.. shocks r behind on both sides
    1 way pull bar and 90/10 shock

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,353

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    How is the spring in front mounted on lr, if its clamped, don't worry about lr drop unless you have the shock on b/c in back, then you'll need a limiter to keep it from over indexing. Usually the shock is the limiter with the clamped up spring in front lr and shock on the same clamp bracket behind, you can put a limiter if you don't want that. JMO and best of luck.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by washeduptoo View Post
    How is the spring in front mounted on lr, if its clamped, don't worry about lr drop unless you have the shock on b/c in back, then you'll need a limiter to keep it from over indexing. Usually the shock is the limiter with the clamped up spring in front lr and shock on the same clamp bracket behind, you can put a limiter if you don't want that. JMO and best of luck.
    lr is clamped up and shock is in the back.. sitting on jackstands in the garage the spring will just fall out with the shock off and the droop set at 40* but what i havent thought about is that on the track when the car is up on the bars(on the gas the spring perch will be pushing up so it might not be as bad as it is while its just sitting there on jack stands. the way the car is now i only have about 25 or 30* bar angle. i have shock exstenions coming i just want to get this limiting chain put on and set ot see if its goin to help me.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,353

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    Are you using a coil over eliminator holding the spring in or do you have a jack bolt with spring cups holding it in? Trying to understand and help.

  9. #9

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    When the track gets dryslick most drop your chain down 1 inch more than when it is tacky. It will also rollover on the right frt when it is slick and help keep it up on the bars. With a bilstein shock use a 2 inch exstension. Put a piece of tape on your left rear lower bar to make sure the birdcage does not hit it. You can let it hang down and it looks like it will not hit but when the left rear is driving under the chassis it will bend your lower bar or break it.

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by washeduptoo View Post
    Are you using a coil over eliminator holding the spring in or do you have a jack bolt with spring cups holding it in? Trying to understand and help.
    Jack bolt with spring cup thanks for the help also

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    1,353

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    With the jack bolt, you could weld a shock mount to it and mount a coil over eliminator to it. We put tywraps from spring to spring cup to keep it in place. JMO but the lr drop shouldn't be a problem with a clamped up car as the axle tube will index into the spring providing the traction. I would give the chassis builder a call if you can and get his thoughts. Best of luck.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    135

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    we been fighting this sisue all year. With spring cup on lr . clamped. Some say it is ok for spring cup to come out of spring. This seems to make our car very loose not much side bite. If your spring is unloaded if your on fast track. your on hike very hard getting in . so take your left spring out of your car while driving into the corner. Trust me with will be loose. I don't see how this can be good thing. Seems you have to have coil over eliminator to run spring in front with clamp car. Just my thoughts. I hope someone knows more about this then i do .

  13. #13

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    how long are your rear springs

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    135

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    mine are 13" . I was just told couple days ago that some have run a taller spring and cranked it downso wont come out of spring cup. Not sure if that is good idea. Seems like it might work?

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    197

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    Quote Originally Posted by tworrick View Post
    mine are 13" . I was just told couple days ago that some have run a taller spring and cranked it downso wont come out of spring cup. Not sure if that is good idea. Seems like it might work?
    taller and softer. ( less spring rate)....you can't just crank it down to keep it on the spring, you have to go softer to compress the spring more....and keep the same ride height....on a car that hikes, it is better to run a softer spring , compressed more.....
    example: 600 #'s on LR..... 200 # spring compresses 3"
    600 #'s on LR......150 # spring compresses 4"
    ( give or take a little, not figuring in motion ration and stuff - just an example)
    Softer keeps it on the spring.... and helps promote hike with the extra compressed length...
    so if you went to a taller spring of the same rate, you would have to back the bolt out to keep the ride height on your car.... TALLER AND SOFTER!

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    135

    Default

    thank you . Thats same thing I was being told friday night.

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