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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    571

    Default Bert Flywheel Offset / Shims ?

    The BERT catalog indicates you should have .080 - .100 gap between the flywheel and the idle gear in the bell housing.

    I'm just wondering how much shim you guys typically need to get that .. it seems like I'm going to need a lot. I've always had trouble with grinding the flywheel ring down to nothing after a few months of racing, but I've never measured for proper offset and I want to get it right this time.

    Thanks !

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Glennville, GA
    Posts
    745

    Default

    I have never even thought of shimming mine. I guess I got lucky that I don't have to. Although I will tell you if you wash your car weekly you may need to lube that idler every week. If I go 2 or 3 weeks without lubing it, it won't slide out far enough and engage. Makes that horrible grinding sound. Has anyone ever tried putting a grease fitting on that thing?
    Crew Chief "Tip of the day":
    Most handling problems can be solved by adjusting the screw-ball. It can be difficult to fine tune at times. Explaining yourself loudly and striking it on top of the helmet with a dead blow hammer usually works well.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Glennville, GA
    Posts
    745

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Living_Truth View Post
    I've never had a motor that didn't require shimming. Usually it's at least one thick (.080) and one thin (.040) I'm not sure if the thickness is correct, but I know the thick/thin. I've even had to use 2 thick once before.



    I maybe put grease on it during the install at the start of the year. Other than that, nothing during the season. And I know that goes for a lot of guys I run against as well. Could there be a correlation your lack of engagement and lack of shims?
    If I pull the starter out, and press the gear out with a long screwdriver it engages. I spray some stuff on the idler shaft and it works fine, move it back and forth a few times and no issues. When it's not lubed it's very hard to slide the idler by hand, it binds up. Couple squirts of anything from WD-40 to Lithium Grease and it works fine, no shimming.
    Crew Chief "Tip of the day":
    Most handling problems can be solved by adjusting the screw-ball. It can be difficult to fine tune at times. Explaining yourself loudly and striking it on top of the helmet with a dead blow hammer usually works well.

  4. #4

    Default

    They make a flywheel that has more offset. I think you just add M to part number. It fixed all my problems. Is there not a grease zerk on the inside of starter to grease the idler?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Glennville, GA
    Posts
    745

    Default

    I looked for a fitting inside the bellhousing, through the hole in the top. I didn't see one. The trans is out of the car now, I will give it a better look over tonight.
    Crew Chief "Tip of the day":
    Most handling problems can be solved by adjusting the screw-ball. It can be difficult to fine tune at times. Explaining yourself loudly and striking it on top of the helmet with a dead blow hammer usually works well.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    796

    Default

    I always put 2 shims on works great..

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    5

    Default Bert Flywheel

    Where are you guys puting shims at my starter does same thing between starter and bellhousing or on flywheel?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    137

    Default

    All of my bell housings had a grease fitting right beside the starter on the idler shaft. The idler shaft is hollow and accepts grease through it to the gears. Put a pump in it every other week or so and that will be a plenty

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