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  1. #1

    Default New to leaf springs. Any help would help out alot

    I am new to leaf spring. I run multi leaf on both r and l. I can not run Fastboy set up. I run IMCA rules. What adjustments can I make for a lose car and what do I make for a tight car. I have read alot about the leafs spring cars and have seen that these cars are totally differant then the 3 bar ect cars. Any help would be awesome.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    160

    Default

    Tail weight

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    632

    Default

    Depends on the car and driver and what it's doing now. You allowed shackles ? Like ruef52 suggested tail weight

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    197

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nebraskabowhunter View Post
    I am new to leaf spring. I run multi leaf on both r and l. I can not run Fastboy set up. I run IMCA rules. What adjustments can I make for a lose car and what do I make for a tight car. I have read alot about the leafs spring cars and have seen that these cars are totally differant then the 3 bar ect cars. Any help would be awesome.
    agree with the others.... load it up with fuel / weight in the slick.... move the shackles / front eye of the spring up and down to get it where you want.......(scales or trial and error)
    Then everytime the car stops... put a jack under the car to hold it off the springs... never let it down on the springs unless the car is on the track or on a set of scales.... don't even tow it to the track sitting on the springs....block it up with something...... Or you will be buying leaf springs by the truck load......
    Leaf springs can be real fast, they are real simple , they do the anti-squat deal better than anything... but you have to keep them fresh.....you can go broke buying multileaf springs if you don't keep the weight off of them......
    Back before you could buy racing leaf springs.....I wasted a lot of my High School years pulling leaf springs out of a full body dirt race car and re-arching the leafs one at a time with a sledge hammer and an anvil......I think my hands still sting from the mis-hits when the spring was not level on the anvil......:-)

  5. #5

    Default

    I already do block the rear end when not in use. I do run shackles on both sides. The rear end of the car is loose in the middle. It will go into the corner and come out fine. It is in the middle were it seems to be loose.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Barrington il.
    Posts
    881

    Default

    Run a wheel spacer on the lft side. It will tighten in center. You could put some weight up high in the rear. A stiffer rt front spring or even a bit more cross. The springs could also be dying. Check the arch, if it is to far off they are dead. You will be able to tell real fast when they die. You may have to get them re arched.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    2,319

    Smile

    Take a couple leaves out to the curb. yes, curb on the side of the road. Take your 5# shop hammer and use a blow that utilizes the corner of the hammer head, not a direct hit on the face of the hammer. Practice a little til you see how hard and get the feel for the hit and the bend.If you are a muffler shop you can use your tubing bender. Be very careful and don't put the center bolt hole within the shafts area. Same with using a hammer, don't try to bend them in or near the hole. Stay away from the surface area of the lowering block if possible.Remember arching in the center is just going to pull out when you tighten the u bolt plate down.*Not responsible for accidents of any kind. When you break one it may fly to heaven. Don't stand near the outer ends*Of course a professional is recommended. Have fun!
    BUCKLE UP NOW, YA HEAR?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    632

    Default

    I would take mine apart and use a vise to re-arch

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    1,238

    Default

    a hydrolic press be safest way to re arch springs,...if your springs loseing rate to fast your running to light a rate springs to start with...the new stiff front segment springs are the hot ticket in leafs nowdays...

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    632

    Default

    I have done that also, take your time and go slow.

  11. #11

    Default

    These springs are new. They have 6 races on them. Would lowering or raising the rear of the spring in the shackle do anything. How much would tire presure change things.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    632

    Default

    Lowering the spring will add cross, and raising it will take cross out in the shackle. You say loose in the middle??? How are you driving the car in or are you making the car loose?

  13. #13

    Default

    The rear of the car whats to come around. I have to be easy on the gas so it doesnt

  14. #14
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    632

    Default

    scale weight, tire pressures, shocks ? Does the car have a pull bar ?
    Last edited by Dirtrunner35; 05-24-2012 at 09:41 PM.

  15. #15

    Default Here are good simple basics..No where near as good as a 96 CT article I have though

    http://www.circletrack.com/chassiste...ion/index.html.. I can fax you the other articles if you need them, and give you a few tricks, from Scooters bag!! 573 208 3528.. dont hesitate to call or txt.. Jason

  16. #16

    Default

    I need to know what angle the shackle should be at on the left side at ride height. I have seen it stated at both 90 degree and at 40 degree. Which one is right?

  17. #17

    Default

    Car weight is 2600 Running 1994 shocks on both rear with 175 multi leaf. And 1994 on rf and 1993 on lf. 12rf 14rr 10lr lf8

  18. #18

    Default

    And one more thing could I put my left shackle mount at 51 inches and 53.5 inches and not be floating the RR. Rules will not let me float RR. Is that going to mess with weights and ride heights running in 2 differant holes right?

  19. #19
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    632

    Default

    I floated my stock car and a mono leaf mod and put shackle at 40 degrees on both. The weights will change some. Tire temps will tell you alot.

  20. #20

    Default

    This is what the IMCA rules say about the RR. Does anyone know if you could run a 15x7 and still run within the rules? I want to run more stagger. Thought this might be a good way to do it. "May use IMCA approved bead lock, on right rear only. External, steel bead lock only and it cannot make wheel any narrower than 8 inches and no wider than 8.75 inches".

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