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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Cleveland,Tenn
    Posts
    113

    Default 97 grt steelhead setup

    any suggestions would be a good setup for a 97 grt where to start on springs and shocks and weight percentages? i was goin to go try the grt setup but i was thinkin that based more on a high hp car so any suggestions please and the jbar pos..car got to weigh 2300 lbs and 55s on rear and 21s on front for tires...4 bars have 4 holes on top and 2 on bottom..just wantin to get this thing ready for scales thanx

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Cleveland,Tenn
    Posts
    113

    Default

    anyone have any suggestions?? i would sure appreaciate it

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Cleveland,Tenn
    Posts
    113

    Default anyone own a grt that would help me

    anyone have a good ball park for a all steel motor.high bank track egg shape sorda 1/3 mile

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    240

    Default

    Several on here always refer people to GRT website and tell them to start with that and tune from there.

  5. #5

    Default

    I had one that I ran until '05. 550 LF, 400-425 RF, 250 LR, 225-200 RR. On 4 bar location, is LR shock behide axle? If so run LR top bar top hole and never move it, RR top bar top hole or 1 down. We always ran bottom bars on top hole. J-bar bottom hole on pinion, don't know the measurement but if car still has original holes on frame ( it came with 4 holes but most changed to slider) run 1 hole down from top. Still hard to tell you with not knowing all the changes been made- RF could be 19 1/2 or 17 5/8, if 17 then you need to be softer on rf . The 97 to 06 or 07 are not much change so GRT suggestion will work.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,016

    Default

    If the car hasn't been changed, it will be a 16 5/8" lower LF, 17 5/8" lower RF and 10" uppers..We changed a lot of the front geometry...The rear we ran LRU top hole...LRL top hole, when it slicked off we dropped to bottom hole...RRU 1 hole down from top...RRL top hole...If you need to tighten going in lower hole...we changed everything to 2008 pick ups...Much more adjustments..

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,016

    Default

    Also 500 LF...400 RF...250/225 LR and 225/200 RR

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    240

    Default

    Why the 500LF 400RF compared to the 550/350 that is on the GRT site?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    310

    Default

    i never could get the 350 rf spring to work either on older cars. front end would wash up just had no grip. i guess it would depend on track conditions etc etc. i ran 550-400 and alot of my friends at the track did too on just about every chassis that wasn 02 and newer. jmo. i dont think you can go wrong w a 550 lf 400 rf 200lr 225rr one hole down on both top 4 links bottom holes on lower 4 links square your rearend side to side put the j bar 8 inches up on the frame and even w the pinion on pinion plate 120 lbs bite 53% ls 53% rear 4" stagger, shock valving lf 5 rf 4-6 lr behind 5/3 lr in front 6/0 rr4/6. dont worry about your overall weight just try to get your %'s right. tire press lf-10rf-12lr-6rr-10

    thats pretty much every budget car i know of is running similar to this and guys above seem to be close too so? the rockets can get away w the 350 spring and newer chassis but even some black front ends still run a 400 at my track.

    start w this then maybe try a 225lr and 250rr sometimes thats better just gotta try it.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,016

    Default

    Same problem we had when we were running an iron engine...350 lb RF just wouldn't let the car turn...We even dropped to a 450 LF, 400 RF at a couple of tracks....He said the car would turn anywhere he wanted...

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Cleveland,Tenn
    Posts
    113

    Default

    ok guys i appreaciate the help..i have got some more questions to ask if thats ok...When i set my ride heights do i need to be in car to set them??? and on my lowers i do have the 17 5/8 rf lower with a 400lbs spring??? if thats what is needed for that kinda lower or do i need to go softer?? umm people say to start ur bars neautral when scaling car...might be a dumb question..but where is neautral for the 4 bars i have the top 4 hole brackets on top and the 2 holes brackets on bottoms???

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,016

    Default

    We have our bars set to where we think we are going to go on the track with...Our driver is about 205 lbs and we do not scale the car with him in it. Never have, went off the GRT specs to start with, so we used that as a baseline w/o driver and have just kept doing it that way...it's all relative to the changes you make...GRT suggests scaling with out driver and figuring the drivers weighs 200 lbs...

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