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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    558

    Default Brake pedal to the floor

    New line, new fluid about 15 races ago.

    What is every little thing that i can look for to find the reason my brakes failed to work once up to speed????? Pedal went to the floor, but the wall stopped me, but when i drove back to the pits they worked.

    Havent looked at anything as of now. I plan to check the rear hubs to see if they are lose.

    Master Cylinders are probably 7 years old but get flushed out over the winter.

    Give me anything you can think of that i can check!

    Thanks
    Chris Zogg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    632

    Default

    I know someone who had that problem going into a turn, he hit the clutch by mistake, the wall stopped him also.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    tulsa america
    Posts
    2,688

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dirtrunner35 View Post
    I know someone who had that problem going into a turn, he hit the clutch by mistake, the wall stopped him also.
    Yeah the first time you drive a car w/ the brake and clutch reversed can be expensive

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    558

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by powerslide View Post
    Yeah the first time you drive a car w/ the brake and clutch reversed can be expensive
    Ouch....im sure i hit the right pedal

    I have had it that on high spped tracks i have to pump the brakes going down the straights just to make sure they will be there, thats why im hoping its my rear hubs being lose and at the high speeds the rotor is pushing the pads away

    Thanks for the replys, i just need a reminder on what all to look for just so i dont overlook anything
    Chris Zogg

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    tulsa america
    Posts
    2,688

    Default

    are you running a brake floater? That could push the piston back in.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    558

    Default

    yes....brake floater on LR
    Chris Zogg

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    in a van down by the river
    Posts
    1,893

    Default brakes

    my bet is the 7 yr old master cylinders.
    Replace them!
    I think there should be lifeguards in the genepool.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    197

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JustAddDirt View Post
    my bet is the 7 yr old master cylinders.
    Replace them!
    i agree......

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Burnsville MN
    Posts
    642

    Default

    floor mount or hanging pedals? If you have floor mount try putting in residual (sp) valves, they keep the brake pressure up
    To bad people that know it all can't do it all!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Barrington il.
    Posts
    881

    Default

    Do you bleed your brakes regularly? Sounds like you have some moisture in your fluid. Bleed the brakes every couple of weeks you should be fine. On asphalt you MUST bleed the brakes every week or that problem will arise. Good luck

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    544

    Default

    Why? It's supposed to be a sealed system.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Barrington il.
    Posts
    881

    Default

    Brake fluid by nature absorbes moisture. When you start using the brakes alot, say in the feature, that moisture will get hot and boil in the brake line. This is why your pedal goes to the floor but once the brakes cool down they are fine again. This is the reason they have brake fluid recirculaters and such.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    332

    Default

    Just went through this myself. Replace the master cylinders!!!!!!

  14. #14
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Glasgow, Kentucky
    Posts
    4,852

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by stock car driver View Post
    I also never used the brakes like I do now racing on dirt, dirt gets them way way hotter even in a heat race.
    I've never seen glowing rotors on a dirt car other then supers on some larger tracks and then only going into the corner but you can see them every saturday night at the local asphalt track in many classes get hot enough to glow all the way around the track.
    Was told by a LONG time race winner once that if you are not using your brakes hard on asphalt, you are not going fast enough!.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Glasgow, Kentucky
    Posts
    4,852

    Default

    As to the problem, I would replace the master cylinders. Then get new unopened fluid and bleed the whole system out with the new stuff. If you topped it off with fluid that was in the shop you added water.

    One of the mags did a test several years ago and found that if you open a bottle of fluid, break the seal, close it tight and put it on the shelf. At 40-60% humidity it only took a few weeks for it to absorbe enough moisture to create a dangerous condition by causing system failure when used.

    I NEVER use fluid from an open bottle, it is to cheap to take a chance.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    558

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Egoracing View Post
    As to the problem, I would replace the master cylinders. Then get new unopened fluid and bleed the whole system out with the new stuff. If you topped it off with fluid that was in the shop you added water.

    One of the mags did a test several years ago and found that if you open a bottle of fluid, break the seal, close it tight and put it on the shelf. At 40-60% humidity it only took a few weeks for it to absorbe enough moisture to create a dangerous condition by causing system failure when used.

    I NEVER use fluid from an open bottle, it is to cheap to take a chance.
    Wow, did not know this. Thanks!! I did find a rotor very slightly bent, next im going to replace the masters and get some new fluid. havnt been back on track since the problem occured so i dont know if its just the rotor or more but i think ill just replace the masters and be done with it.

    Thanks all
    Chris Zogg

  17. #17
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Iowa
    Posts
    742

    Default

    Hey Chris , had the same problem a few years back and found a rotor that was warped. Going down the straight for a length of time will push a piston back in the caliper and when stepping on the brakes you'll have a soft pedal

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    205

    Default

    Make sure your rear springs aren't getting against the caliper. I did some bracket changes on a car and tore the rf off 3 times before I figured out what was happening. I had mounted the rr spring too close to the caliper and when entering the turn it would push the piston in. On next corner, no rear brakes.

  19. #19

    Default

    Hi dear i am replacing the brake pads on my Toyota Corolla and I need to know which ones are the best and will last the longest. There are carbon metalic brake pads, duralast gold, valucraft, or morse ceramic. Any help I would appreciate it. Thanks.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    USA, Chicago, Illinois
    Posts
    11

    Default

    I think the best brake pads that might really perform well in your car will be of Greedy and Sparco...... i have been using the Sparco and the greedy parts for like 2 years and i must say these parts would really work on any car if you could handle them nicely.


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