metric clip springs

[willyj]

what spring split to use on metric clip 4/4 rear? I understand the r.f. with metric lowers will prob be 1050. Previous owner suggested 200-300 lb. split and builder is retired or out of bizz. Just cant see using over 100 lb. of split. Car tends to be loose in w/850lf-1050rf.Am i missing something about all metric front ends?

[Kojak_9x]

I've always heard people say they run heavy springs like that but have never actually seen it on any of my buddys cars! I run a RF 650 LF 700 in all the metric mods ive ever owned/drove. Ive been down to 600 on the RF but didnt like it with a tie down shock. The biggest thing i noticed with the springs/metric 4/4 im running is to have the LF 125-150 lbs heavier on the scales. Im by far not a pro but this helped me out. Good luck!

[Racer111]

I havent seen a car with metric lowers for years.With the nova lowers springs run from 550-850..

[willyj]

Thanks for the replies but it already bottoms out a 1050 now. I understand nova lowers are different. Was hoping someone who ran true all metric could shed some light on this application. Yeah I hear some chevelle guys run stiffer on the lf,just looking to, better this car.

[Kojak_9x]

If ur bottoming out with that much spring u either have a spring that is shot or ur ride hights r way too low! What r ur ride hights and where do u measure? Also measure from the ground to ur lower front control arm bolt. Ill try to help u out. I run an all metric front end just cause i have tons of parts! Also what ball joints do u run?

[willyj]

If ur bottoming out with that much spring u either have a spring that is shot or ur ride hights r way too low! What r ur ride hights and where do u measure? Also measure from the ground to ur lower front control arm bolt. Ill try to help u out. I run an all metric front end just cause i have tons of parts! Also what ball joints do u run?

Measure from top of lower c/a to the bottom of spring bucket on frame. 3.5" rf 3.0" lf. Unsure of balljoint as they came in car,haven't verified exactly what heights. RoushYates springs checked and rated doubt any trouble with those! Rf spring rubber has solved bottoming i would like to check ride ht up to lca bolts vs method were using with homemade tool between lca and frame at spring bucket. From ground to lca bolts how many " and how much diff l-r?

[dirttrackrocker]

I ran an all metric GRT last year. I was bottoming out with a 1050 also. I went to 1100 and raised ride heights to 8" from lower control arm bolts to ground.

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

Go left heavy with the springs and it will reduce the rf travel and tighten the car.

[willyj]

I ran an all metric GRT last year. I was bottoming out with a 1050 also. I went to 1100 and raised ride heights to 8" from lower control arm bolts to ground.

Both rf lf 8"?

[willyj]

Go left heavy with the springs and it will reduce the rf travel and tighten the car.

Swap ones I have 1050lf 850 rf or how much split ya talking?

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

Swap ones I have 1050lf 850 rf or how much split ya talking?

I don't have much experience with mods and none with all metric components on the front. I just know that going that route would allow you to run the rf spring you have. I would probably try 1200lf and 1050rf unless someone who knows better says that is stupid. I ran 1400lf and 1000rf in a metric street stock and was very fast. That is a different animal, but gives you an idea.

[dirttrackrocker]

I wouldn't go less than 1050 on RF. You can go heavier on LF but, I wouldn't go more than 50 - 100 #

[willyj]

Verified the ride hts were over 8" from ground to lca bolts! To late in week to get new springs. Left the 1050 rf found 70 duro full spring rubber to go on lf. 850. Thanks for all replies,have a lot to try now!

[SRXtripman]

Ive had the same isues with mine until we did some outside the box thinking, i raised my ride heights to within an inch or so of 8" , and went to a 650 rgt, 750 lft, with a tie down shock. Metric lowers, spindles and adjustable uppers.

[willyj]

Ive had the same isues with mine until we did some outside the box thinking, i raised my ride heights to within an inch or so of 8" , and went to a 650 rgt, 750 lft, with a tie down shock. Metric lowers, spindles and adjustable uppers.

Ain't saying it won't work just don't seem logical! Have read Mr Adams post along with the motion ratio post's. I think lighting chassis used metric for years and he suggested a min of 1050rf. Mine's not a lightning so who's to say soft won't work. Rained out sat gonna try 1125 rf 1050 lf. I do have a 750- 850 lying around, may just try them. We are running the bottom on a 1/4 mile so?

[willyj]

What logic are you using?


The stiffer spring in front ALWAYS gets more wt and supports more wt.. Add to that the fact your turning left and theres banking and you add two more huge amounts of wt to the rf...

youve got a 200lb plus split, you could practically take out your lf spring

Agree too much split! Logic is based on motion ratios of chevelle,nova,metric lca's .

[cavemod]

I do use metric on metric and I tried the 1050 in the rf and couldn't get the rideheights low enough .currently I have an 850 in the rf and a 950 in the lf and yes it does bottom out .I even chopped notches in the frame till the tie rods hit now.Just about everyone I talked to that has ran all metric stuff says this is a common issue unless you convert to nova lowers.I have also talked with don about spring rates and ride heigths and he told me the c/a bolts should be even or try to get the bolts 1/4 to a 1/2 inch lower then the center of the balljoint.I've ran metric metric for years now with not very good success but my best results came on a slick track with a 900 rf spring. generally the car is tight tight tight on everything but slick and has a wicked mid corner push on or off the gas .I know a guy that won 27 features in one year using all metric and he told me he ran a pair of 800s my best advice that i tried to help the car was something totally non related>RAISE the jbar up 1 1/2 inches on both sides in the back made a ton of difference car actually was driveable! he said the rear was way over driving the front.til my trans clutch decided to stop working good luck though

[willyj]

I do use metric on metric and I tried the 1050 in the rf and couldn't get the rideheights low enough .currently I have an 850 in the rf and a 950 in the lf and yes it does bottom out .I even chopped notches in the frame till the tie rods hit now.Just about everyone I talked to that has ran all metric stuff says this is a common issue unless you convert to nova lowers.I have also talked with don about spring rates and ride heigths and he told me the c/a bolts should be even or try to get the bolts 1/4 to a 1/2 inch lower then the center of the balljoint.I've ran metric metric for years now with not very good success but my best results came on a slick track with a 900 rf spring. generally the car is tight tight tight on everything but slick and has a wicked mid corner push on or off the gas .I know a guy that won 27 features in one year using all metric and he told me he ran a pair of 800s my best advice that i tried to help the car was something totally non related>RAISE the jbar up 1 1/2 inches on both sides in the back made a ton of difference car actually was driveable! he said the rear was way over driving the front.til my trans clutch decided to stop working good luck though

Yep all you just said! Sounds like a Rhulman conversion might be in order this winter.

[HEAVY DUTY]

I do use metric on metric and I tried the 1050 in the rf and couldn't get the rideheights low enough .currently I have an 850 in the rf and a 950 in the lf and yes it does bottom out .I even chopped notches in the frame till the tie rods hit now.Just about everyone I talked to that has ran all metric stuff says this is a common issue unless you convert to nova lowers.I have also talked with don about spring rates and ride heigths and he told me the c/a bolts should be even or try to get the bolts 1/4 to a 1/2 inch lower then the center of the balljoint.I've ran metric metric for years now with not very good success but my best results came on a slick track with a 900 rf spring. generally the car is tight tight tight on everything but slick and has a wicked mid corner push on or off the gas .I know a guy that won 27 features in one year using all metric and he told me he ran a pair of 800s my best advice that i tried to help the car was something totally non related>RAISE the jbar up 1 1/2 inches on both sides in the back made a ton of difference car actually was driveable! he said the rear was way over driving the front.til my trans clutch decided to stop working good luck though

Dont put too soft of a spring in to get the ride height down.They make 8 and 8 1/2 tall springs.If you are bottoming on your tierods that might be your mid corner push.The slick track with less corner speed isnt gonna lay on the tierods as hard or as long which is probably why the car is better in the slick.Raising the jbar up might have helped because it unhooked the rear, but the car would be better if the front turned better without taking rear traction away.

[willyj]

Dont put too soft of a spring in to get the ride height down.They make 8 and 8 1/2 tall springs.If you are bottoming on your tierods that might be your mid corner push.The slick track with less corner speed isnt gonna lay on the tierods as hard or as long which is probably why the car is better in the slick.Raising the jbar up might have helped because it unhooked the rear, but the car would be better if the front turned better without taking rear traction away.

Yep the paint on my frame is rubbed off from contact with the rf tierod. I dont know how much contact it'll take to cause trouble,but the evidence is there. Yes 8'' springs can be purchased thru Suspension Spring Specialist.