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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    544

    Default Critique my scale #'s please

    Put my car on the scales today and Would like to get some opinions.

    First set is with me NOT in the ca

    Lf 457. Rf 519
    Lr 712. Rr 538

    Front 976 43.8
    Rear 1250 56.1
    Left. 1169 52.5
    Right 1057 47.4
    Cross 1231 55.3
    Total 2226

    Me in the car

    Lf 523. Rf. 527
    Lr 836. Rr 586
    Cross 1360. 55%
    rear. 1420. 57.4
    Front 1050. 42.5
    Left 1360. 55%
    right. 1113. 45%
    total. 2472

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    544

    Default

    Car is a 2005 impressive metric
    4 bar lr. Z link rr
    Lr eliminator in back shock in front
    Rr spring on axle shock in front
    Lf 600. Rf 650
    Lr 225. Rr 200
    3/8 mile high bank dry slick 90%

  3. #3

    Default

    I think thats a lot of LR bite which makes for a lot of cross which will tighten up the car.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    544

    Default

    The problem I've been fighting is a wicked tight condition can you explain. I hit the gas and the car will NOT turn. We were a ton better last weekend but I think I'm still a mile off.

  5. #5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jsf74 View Post
    Car is a 2005 impressive metric
    4 bar lr. Z link rr
    Lr eliminator in back shock in front
    Rr spring on axle shock in front
    Lf 600. Rf 650
    Lr 225. Rr 200
    3/8 mile high bank dry slick 90%
    1st swap front springs and try it. 2nd soften rf 50#s and try it. 3rd soften right rear

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    227

    Default

    get your rear split down to about 80-100 which should lower cross. with what you have when you get on the gas it should be very tight

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    544

    Default

    When I went out last week for the heat race the car was 100% junk. Between the heat and the b main another racer helped me with some changes and the car was a million times better. As a matter of fact it's the fastest it's ever been with me driving it. When you say swap springs and then soften rear are u talking about in the shop while scaling or week to week at the track. Why is the car rotating nice when my lr bite is so high?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Nevada
    Posts
    270

    Default

    I agree with a1driver. Only change bite before trying other things that were suggested. JMO

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    544

    Default

    What is the best way to adjust bite. Just jack screw or will spring changes affect this. Just lr and rf right?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Nevada
    Posts
    270

    Default

    First set ride heights according to builder specs.On my car i put one turn in fronts to two turns in the back as this keeps my ride heights the same. In your case take turns out of RF and LR and put turns in LF and RR. Probably 2 turns out RF and 4 out ofLR. 2 turns in LF and 4 in RR will get you close, if to much go back the other way. If your ride heights change just go one turn in fronts and backs until you get bite where you want it. Springs will change bite so i would just try bite first then you will know if that change helped you or not. You can then try springs. JMO

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    544

    Default

    Should I adjust bite with me in the car or not. Seems like I need to have my weight in the seat to get accurate #'s.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    wisconsin
    Posts
    135

    Default

    Too much lr weight and hence too much cross best thing i can say is set weights to manufactures spec w/o driver thenfind 200 lbs of weight in the seat of the car and record the numbers most cars are set up by manufacturer for a 200 lbs driver you weigh what 240?why is the rf weight heavier then lf??your numbers are why the car is tight probably pushes like a dump truck

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Nevada
    Posts
    270

    Default

    If it was me i would scale car to have , like a1driver said, 80-100lbs of bite with you out of car. You can climb in car after and see what bite goes to so you will have that number also. Plus you should also jot down all your percentages and other weights as well with you in and out of car. JMO

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    544

    Default

    will do. i am forced to race what i have this weekend but will make some scale changes for next sat. thanks everyone.

  15. #15

    Default respond

    Quote Originally Posted by jsf74 View Post
    When I went out last week for the heat race the car was 100% junk. Between the heat and the b main another racer helped me with some changes and the car was a million times better. As a matter of fact it's the fastest it's ever been with me driving it. When you say swap springs and then soften rear are u talking about in the shop while scaling or week to week at the track. Why is the car rotating nice when my lr bite is so high?
    I pm'd you

  16. #16
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    227

    Default

    you dont have to scale it to make changes for this week. Do what was suggested earlier, take 2 turns out of rf and lr- put 2 turns in lf and rr

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    544

    Default

    K I'll adjust my weight jackers for the hot laps and see what happens.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    wisconsin
    Posts
    135

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by a1driver View Post
    you dont have to scale it to make changes for this week. Do what was suggested earlier, take 2 turns out of rf and lr- put 2 turns in lf and rr
    I can guarentee this will free up the car some .if its still tight take another turn out of rf and lr and another turn in lf and rr. your original numbers are horrible way too much wedge and that rf should be lighter then lf .I run about 49cross w 56 tail and only 40lbs of bite w/o me in the car and my cross goes down to 48.4 and wedge goes up to 75 lbs when i get in.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    544

    Default

    Well it took all of about 10 minutes to adjust all corners 2 rounds. If I'm still tight should I change 1 more round or increase rr air pressure. Right now I'm at 10lbs. Adding pressure will load that tire and take some more bite and cross out right? I've seen some other fellow racers at around 13 or so.

  20. #20

    Default Scale Numbers

    LF should be about 35-50 pounds heavier then the right front. Remember heavy spring gets the weight so by the right front starting out with the weight and having the bigger spring it gets all the weight. Id bet that if you check your RF tire temp when you come off its burning hot. When right front has the weight left rear loses bite. Common mistake it to try to adjust more drive into the car thinking thats the problem. I would say your bottom bars are way to low this causes the car to push like crazy I would move each bottom bar up one hole on the chassis side (guarantee it will free it up a bit). I would do exactly what most have said I would swap springs 650 in LF 600 RF or 600 / 600 is what I run I would put at least three rounds in the left front take three rounds out of the right front put 4 rounds in the right rear and take 4 rounds out of the left rear. Also if you have a RF shock with higher rebound will help. But any more than 100 lbs of left rear is just to much. I had the same problem your having and adjusted my self so far out I had to take it to the chassis builder to get back to where I needed to be...Just my thoughs.

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