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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    544

    Default

    Last week I moved my lr lower bar up one hole and it helped free the car up quite a bit on entry. On the rr I run a z link that's level at ride height. My bar locations are where the previous owner had them and the car was very fast. Not saying it's right but it was proven for the last guy. I will swap springs after the races and take some practice laps and see how it feels. I adjusted two rounds everywhere so far. I don't want to stack adjustments too much.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    544

    Default

    If I jack my rear how much should my rr tire come up off the ground before the lr. I know this is how they did it in the old days.

  3. #23

    Default Jacking up car

    That is hard to say some cars have a chain that limits that and it all in where your bars are set. I wouldnt try to go off of that. But stacking changes wont hurt as long as you know what each change is supposed to do. When I went to the chassis builder we spent 3 and a half hours changing stuff just to get it close to right. I just hate for you to fight a car week after week and not make gains. It will frustrate the heck out of you... I would say take a big swing at it first shot and if its to loose back the changes off one at a time... It will come to you eventually. And some guys can run really radical setups because of how they drive. He might have wanted it super tight so he could trail brake it and get the back end to swing around... Lots of different things to do to make a car turnor not turn. And you can drive them in such a way that makes the car loose or tight. Hit your marks lap after lap and eventually youll get where its fun to drive. Slow is smooth, but smooth is fast....

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    544

    Default

    You say that the lf needs to weigh more than the rf. Won't adding rounds to the lf and rr and subtracting rounds from the rf and lr help this? Man I wish I owned my own scales!

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Nevada
    Posts
    270

    Default

    Yes. Go race the car.

  6. #26

    Default jacks

    Quote Originally Posted by jsf74 View Post
    You say that the lf needs to weigh more than the rf. Won't adding rounds to the lf and rr and subtracting rounds from the rf and lr help this? Man I wish I owned my own scales!
    Those screws are used to set ride height. I know your not in a nextell cup car, but when was the last time you saw them use a weight jack, maybe after a spring rubber adjustment they might use a weight jack. otherwise they adjust panhard bar angle for the most part. I also pm'd you.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Dogwood Illinois
    Posts
    701

    Default

    4 bar cars do not need that much wedge with Z right. Those are swingarm numbers you are running. The RF should never be more than the left on anything and make any speed on anything but a greasy slick track . When running stiff RF springs you must run more wedge than normal to get it to drive the LR and it WILL work but it will also sacrifise side bite and entry tightness. Cars rotate really well tho when set up this way off the gas. But thats when the LR 1/4 panel gets wrinkled.

  8. #28

    Default

    this is our old car it won 5 in arow before it was parked the springs in it are fine but you only need 40lbs of split in the rear and dont worry about the front and if you use a jack with a socket like they used in the old days under rearend the rr will come off the ground about a half inch before the left rear ,the car needs to be where brian told you and the problem is all that left rear is absolutely your problem nothing will turn with your numbers they are right about swing arm numbers!

  9. #29
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    tulsa america
    Posts
    2,686

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by really? View Post
    this is our old car it won 5 in arow before it was parked the springs in it are fine but you only need 40lbs of split in the rear and dont worry about the front and if you use a jack with a socket like they used in the old days under rearend the rr will come off the ground about a half inch before the left rear ,the car needs to be where brian told you and the problem is all that left rear is absolutely your problem nothing will turn with your numbers they are right about swing arm numbers!
    Everyone drives different he will have to find a happy medium that fits his style.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    544

    Default

    Yeah that's true but unfortunately last week was cancled because of the heat. I am going to see what happens this week with all corners adjusted 2 turns. By next week I should have a set of my own scales so I'll try to get it perfect. A few things are different for me driving compared to Brian. First I am about 200hp down on power and our tacky is proably more like your dry slick. Were getting closer every week and thanks everyone so far.

  11. #31
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    544

    Default

    I thought I would share my scale #'s after the adjustments some of you recommended. I think were getting closer but I don't want to go too far. Well see what it does today and go from there.

    Lf 507. Rf 474.
    Lr 662. Rr 588
    Cross 1136 50.91%
    left 1169. 52.39%
    Rear. 1250. 56.02
    total. 2231
    Lr bite 74

  12. #32
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    544

    Default

    Thanks everyone the car is wicked fast and getting better! I was cruising in the heat in the transfer spot when some jack a s s punted me. O well we finally have a car that drives and is at least a top 10 car if I can stay out if trouble. Thanks again!!! I see a heat or b main win in the near future.

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