specs

[14flower]

i have a set or crowler and esslinger 5.7 rods what are the specs on these rods?

[84Dave]

Jarad..... what do you mean by 'specs'? Measure the inside diameter of the pin bores @ the top of the rods, then measure the inside diameters of the rod journal bores @ the bottoms. With a dial-indicator. Then while you're at it, measure the width of the 'big ends' @ the bottoms. Then we may be able to tell you how those specs compare to a stock rod for a SOHC Ford. -Dave-

[14flower]

torque specs

[84Dave]

If the torque specs were not given with the rods in question, you have no option but to torque the bolts by 'bolt stretch'. As I've always done. The 'stretch' torque of a typical rod bolt = 75% of the 'yield'. Yield = the point of bolt stretch whereby if the bolt is stretched to that point, when the nut is loosened, the bolt will NOT return to its 'free-standing' length. I.E. the bolt has been taken to the yield point and is certain to ultimately break if torqued that much. How I've always done it with good results? I clamp the rod, with bearings, into my bench vice. I scratch a rod chart on paper. Install the rod cap & well-lubricated rod nut finger tight and measure/note the free-standing length of both rod bolts. I've used a JEG's rod bolt stretch-gauge for years. Then torque the rod bolts to 30# and measure the stretch. Loosen the nuts and torque again to 35#. If @ 35#, the bolt has not stretched to .004"-.005", loosen again and torque to 40#. Realizing that if the rod bolt is a good one (ARP), & 5/16" diameter, the proper stretch may be reached at 35#. If the bolt is 3/8" diameter, it may require 40# torque to reach the proper stretch. A word of advice, as Crower advises, when you torque a rod bolt or cap-screw, initially tighten the cap/nut a very small amount. Maybe 5#. Then completely tighten the nut/cap in one constant motion with the torque wrench until you reach the desired torque #. Do not tighten in increments. The above procedure serves (2) purposes. Going through 2-3 torque cycles in your bench vice, particularly on new bolts/cap-screws, insures the threads are well-burnished for accurate torque numbers. Once the torque # is known for a given/required stretch, and noted on the rod chart paper, you can install the rods in the engine to the proper torque value/stretch without using the stretch-gauge. It can be a real pain in the patute trying to use a stretch-gauge around the crank while installing the rods in an engine. My favorite torque wrenches? Always use a beam-wrench, NOT a 'clicker', to measure stretch on the bench & ultimately install in the engine. SEARS-ROEBUCK is my favorite beam torque wrench. Over the years, I've had (5) of them calibrated on a digital cal machine, and every one of them were within 1#-1.5# of being spot on! And they retained the accurate cal, as long as the wrench was not abused or dropped to a concrete floor. Has worked for me! -Dave-

[TR32]

As usual, excellent info from you Dave!!!!