Cam ideas?

[20MS]

I run on a 3/8 mile, fairly flat asphalt track and run a maximum of 6800 rpms. We have a .432 lift HYDRAULIC cam rule and must use stock size valves. We must run 10:1 compression and use stock intakes and a holley 350 carb. My engine builder wont give me details on cam i am running but i know its only .410 lift and doesnt have much duration. I am quite under powered compared to other cars running same gears and rpms as me. They pull off corner much harder than mine does regardless of where i degree it. Looking for ne ideas on cams people have had success with that meet my rules and track specs.

[Milford Motorsports]

If your engine builder won't tell you what is in your engine, then you need to find a reputable builder right away and dump this looser.It's your engine you definatly should know what parts he used.A .430 cam is not very big anyway and anything less would definatly put you at a disadvantage.Shop around on the internet find a cam as big as your rules will allow.then find someone you can trust to install it for you.
Good Luck !

[drtlvr]

Holman-Moody .454.

[84Dave]

Go to Schneidercams.com & see what they have. Look on the back of your cam for numbers & maybe a manufacturer logo. Report back here with the numbers/logo & maybe someone can offer something. You didn't mention what engine you're running? That might help. -Dave-

[20MS]

Numbers and logos were ground off cam by engine builder. All engine builders in our area keep there cams a secret. My problem is no pull coming off but it finally kicks in about halfway down straightaway. Degreeing cam didnt help. I am running a mustang with a 2.3.

[let-r-eat]

A dial indicator and degree wheel will show what cam is in the engine. Put a degree wheel on the crank 0'd on TDC and a dial indicator on the retainer with zero lash. Roll the engine over and record the .006 valve lift spec.......020 valve lift spec .......050 valve lift spec .100 valve lift spec and .200 valve lift spec...........find max lift and record. Same with the closing side.Doing this on the intake and exhaust will identify what cam you have.

[14flower]

go have ur cam cam doctored. but race enginering sells cam like what ur looking for from what ive been told on here tight lobe center like 104 will have u pull hard off the corner if u have a wide lobe center cam like i use to it does start to pull right away but if u run a dryslick track u mite want the wider lobe center.

[14flower]

also u mite want to get ur head flowed. good head work mit be the main reason why ur getting bet if the only reason is lack of power.

[Milford Motorsports]

Before you change cams why not try putting some gear in the car.The 2300 motors produce the best power in the high 7000s and up.You are probably only turning 45 to 5000 rpms coming out of the corners.The guys turning 6500 are going to walk away from you.A bone stock 2.3 bottom will turn 8000 week after week,don't be afraid to push it a little.

[20MS]

I attempted some more gear and turned 7500 rpms but lifters came apart after one race weekend. Engine builder doesnt want hydraulic lifters run any higher than 7200 cuz he says they wont hold up. Any truth to that? Should my hydraulic lfters be coming apart at those rpms?

[drtlvr]

Sounds like you need to find somebody that can fix your head. Weak valvesprings will let the valves bounce when they touch the seat. When they bounce, the lifters take up the clearence and mushroom the top of the lifter. A couple times doing this and the lifters will destroy themselves and sometimes blow the lifter bore apart. Been there. 250 open, 110 closed at least.

[Milford Motorsports]

Set up properly your hyd head should be able to turn 8000 easy without any problems.Hyd head setup should be entry level knowledge for any enginebuilder.

[20MS]

Yea I am currently working on trying to find someone else to set me up a new head with a new cam. Havent had good luck with this engine builder even tho he is suppose to be one of the best in the area.