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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    170

    Default Where to buy an Anti-pullover diaphram?

    Can someone please tell me where to get one of these? Is Joe still making them? Anybody have a phone #?????? HELP, PLEASE!!! LOL

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    762

    Default

    They have those at Auto Zone, right next to the Yugo muffler bearings.
    Old enuf to know better, still too young to givadamm.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    15

    Default

    And the piston kick back springs............

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,008

    Default

    sharpy, i think joe has retired. after work tonight i will post how i make mine using an umbrella valve stem seal.

    olin

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,008

    Default

    sorry, got busy last night and didn't get back here. the pump diaphrams joe made had a valve stem seal glued to the diaphram. it was a small positive type seal. i use an umbrella seal, the type with a smooth curve and not a sharp curve. take and cut about half off the bottom and place it on top of the diaphram with the stem hole towards the orange flapper valve. you may have to make a few until get the size correct. you don't want it to touch the flapper valve when you are off the throttle so the pump housing can fill with fuel. when you step on the gas and the diaphram is moved up towards the bowl the valve seal will contact the flapper valve and hold it closed sealing the refill holes. this will stop all vibration induced pullover from half throttle on. you can adjust the point of contact by changing the thickness of the valve seal. you may have to change the flapper valve every year but i have ran them for up to 2 years without a problem. the ones joe made were high tech. i had 2 or 3 and one finally failed after 3 years but the others still work although i had to replace the flapper valves on them. hope this helps.

    olin

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,008

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 500BOMBER View Post
    They have those at Auto Zone, right next to the Yugo muffler bearings.
    that's good, those are next to the diesel exhaust fluid and the stretchy belt installer. wait, these two are real just like the anti-pullover diaphram.

    olin

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    323

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by return to dirt View Post
    sorry, got busy last night and didn't get back here. the pump diaphrams joe made had a valve stem seal glued to the diaphram. it was a small positive type seal. i use an umbrella seal, the type with a smooth curve and not a sharp curve. take and cut about half off the bottom and place it on top of the diaphram with the stem hole towards the orange flapper valve. you may have to make a few until get the size correct. you don't want it to touch the flapper valve when you are off the throttle so the pump housing can fill with fuel. when you step on the gas and the diaphram is moved up towards the bowl the valve seal will contact the flapper valve and hold it closed sealing the refill holes. this will stop all vibration induced pullover from half throttle on. you can adjust the point of contact by changing the thickness of the valve seal. you may have to change the flapper valve every year but i have ran them for up to 2 years without a problem. the ones joe made were high tech. i had 2 or 3 and one finally failed after 3 years but the others still work although i had to replace the flapper valves on them. hope this helps.

    olin
    Olin,

    Any chance of you posting or sending some pics of what you created. Thanks.

    Mike

  8. #8

    Default Jet size

    Olin
    After you get the vibration induced pullover stopped how many jet sizes do you need to incease.
    Thanks Steve

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,008

    Default

    mike,
    i'll try to get some pictures on here if i can. give me a day or two as i have racing tonight and i'm the tech man so i have to be there. would rather be racing but am helping the track to try to stay open.

    steve,
    i usually go by what holley posts on their site and then go up a couple of sizes. be sure to read your plugs. my toyota mods 500 had pullover so bad i plugged off the pv and went down to 65s to keep it from blubbering until i got one of joe's diaphrams.

    olin

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,008

    Default

    i have never tried this to correct vacuum induced pullover which is more of a v8 problem but i would believe it would work for that as well. when i switched my toyota mod over to a 390 double pumper i used this in both bowls and never had a problem. i've ran this on both ford and toyotas. my fords have used both jbv intake and adaptor and stock carbed intakes with 350 and 500 carbs with no problems. my 20r/22r hybred mod has used both ported stock intakes and holley street dominator intakes with 500 2bbl and 390dp 4bbl carbs with no problems.

    olin

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    170

    Default

    Thanks for the info, Olin. Will give that a try.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,008

    Default

    still working on pictures. went to the computor expert in the house, my wife. we all know how that turns out.

    olin

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Wash state
    Posts
    93

  14. #14
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,008

    Default

    same basic idea. instead of using a hard rubber coated steel washer i used the umbrella seai. it's softer and is easy to use. i'm still trying to get some pictures.

    olin

  15. #15
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    340

    Default Another way with no glue.

    I use the 7mm umbrella seal without the glue.I machine a flat groove in the bowl with the OD just inside the spring pocket but with the ID big enough to clear the checkvalve(mine has a checkball not a red flapper type).Then I shorten the valve seal so it is just tall enough for the top to be even with the gasket surface.Cut it off with a razor blade bit you need to sand it flat on a disk sander after cutting it off.

    Gas can get in when off the gas and it seals after you get on it. It always goes back to center when it closes no problem.You will need to adjust it so you get a pump shot and yet it shuts down the pullover after 1/2 throttle or so.

    These will take away a lot of your 35cc or whatever pump capacity but it still seems enough.I suppose if you had a single pumper V8 application you would need the 50cc unit for sure.

    I run a 4412 with a power valve block off with 74 jets on a 2.5.
    Last edited by Racedad; 08-19-2012 at 01:49 PM.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    1,338

    Default

    I had a 350 Holley on the vibration table for weeks and was amazed at how much fuel that could get through the pump with just vibration. I came up with the seal Joe tested and sold after trying many different ideas that had little to no effect. Right now I'm trying a foam plug made fron fuel cell foam that is showing more promise than the seal as it will also help at idle. Let people know how that works out when I get the carb back on the vibration table.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1,336

    Default

    I Use an anti pullover squirter and drill a kill bleed in the metering block....

  18. #18
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    323

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Headhunter View Post
    I had a 350 Holley on the vibration table for weeks and was amazed at how much fuel that could get through the pump with just vibration. I came up with the seal Joe tested and sold after trying many different ideas that had little to no effect. Right now I'm trying a foam plug made fron fuel cell foam that is showing more promise than the seal as it will also help at idle. Let people know how that works out when I get the carb back on the vibration table.
    Keep us up to date. Very interested in how this works out. Pics would be nice too.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    1,338

    Default

    I have been traveling and also the vibration table is down and waiting for a part. Nothing new to say. Now I used a section of foam from a old fuel cell and punched out a cylinder with a hole punch that was just smaller than the ID of the spring. I then cut it to height just so that wit the carburetor upside down and not sping on the dia. I had about 1/64in. gap. It did work on a motor but motor let go putting the car on the trailor so it has not been tested on the track. When I get the time and get the carb on the table and run some sweeps I can tell you better. This wont be until after Christmas at the least but feel free to try it. I never wanted to make money off the cure and will not be upset if anyone else wants to take this and run with it.

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