no rpm

[freedom66]

I drive mustang 2300 on a 1/3 mile highbanked tri-oval.I run 195/60/14 with 5speed trany and 327 gears can only get 6100 rpms. I've also tried 4speed with 345 gears still no rpm. This is a new car my old car was faster with the same setup only differance was the old car had 308 gears the only thing i hav'nt tried is the 308 gears. But that should of made me slower ? right?

[Milford Motorsports]

Are you running a performance cam,valve springs.Has the head been milled.These motors with mild head work,a moderate cam and valve springs should pop up to 8000 with no problem.All the gear in the world won't help if you are running stock parts in the head.

[freedom66]

30 thou off head with 420 cam little bit done to block but still stock pistons and bore...im still baffeled the old car was faster with no changes...all i did was rings and bearings to freshin it up

[Buckle]

With only .030 off of the head, you should be able to use a stock cam gear, but I think this will retard the cam just slightly making it slower out of the hole and reduce overall RPM. If there is any play in the gear teeth or belt, when you assembled the motor, the cam gear may have moved a bit when stuff got snugged down. Did you use the same thickness head gasket? That will affect cam timing as well. How much of an RPM difference are we talking here? What is your final drive? I could be way off here, but that's my thought.

[Milford Motorsports]

If the engine has been blah since the rebuild.I would try retiming the motor,cam and ignition.Pull the belt,make sure you have crank at TDC.E bar the cam,make sure you have the cam at 0*.Set the distributor to #1.Reinstall timing belt,make sure nothing moves.Get engine started,set timing at 36*. Milling the head .030 will not give you the compression increase you really need to get real power out of this engine (.100 to .140 are more the norm).You must though, have good valve springs,you will not see any real preformance gains without racing springs.

[freedom66]

done timing 3 times....same head gasket....same everything....

[freedom66]

what is meant by bar the cam? .....and how is it done

[Buckle]

It's important to get the cam timing correct as that affects performance (RPM powerband) and clearance issues (not smashing valves into pistons). I don't think the second one is an issue really since you have so little shaved off of the head and a mild camshaft.

The E bar method is described on the Esslinger Engineering site (www.esslingerracing.com). Take a look in the Tech section under Installation then Esslinger Adjustable Cam Pulley.

This method only works if your camshaft has no advance already ground into it. Both intake and exhaust lobes of #1 will be located the same height above the location on the head where the valve cover secures.

I know of and have used several cams by Crane and Schneider that have advance added into the grind, so the Ebar method should not be used. You need to use a degree wheel hooked to the crank snout, dial gauge and have the camshaft information available. If you're new to this, it might take some practice learning how to do. Try to hook up with someone who's already done it, even if on another type of motor.

But, I'm guessing with such a mild camshaft, the Ebar method is probably pretty close. If you have an adjustable gear, advance the cam a bit and see if that wakes it up, but don't go too wild degreewise. Again, see the Esslinger site on recommendations for how much to safely move.

There are lots of guys here with lots of good firsthand knowledge. The biggest thing you can do is have all the information available and out there that will allow folks to diagnose. As stupid as it sounds sometimes, go back over everything and think about every little thing that was different from then to now. Even the small things have an effect.

[Milford Motorsports]

Good post Buckle.I didn't have the time or energy to try and explain the E bar.I new someone would.Your last 2 sentences were dead on,it is easy to miss something simple then compound the problem by assuming you did it right the first time.(Been there done that )

[Buckle]

Just trying to pay it forward. I've gotten a lot of help here from many guys, especially 84Dave. I've had stuff like this happen to me and it can get pretty frustrating. A fresh view usually helps move things forward.

Now if I could only get my Pinto to turn in the center....but that's another very long story.

[84Dave]

Racers helping racers! At this relatively late point in my 'hobby' racing life, I no longer have any race 'secrets'. And it's correct that there are many knowledgable individuals on this 4-cylinder Forum. With a BROAD spectrum of experience covering every system, electrical or mechanical, on a race car. It always inspires me to realize that there is an honest/correct answer to a race question out there on this Forum. Keep up the great work gents............. and ladies! -Dave-

[84Dave]

Buckle...... on your Pinto........ Rules permitting on your front suspension hardware......... have you attempted to minimize the changing bump-steer & Ackermann toe as you drive through a corner? A stock Pinto front end has a ton of it!
-Dave-

[let-r-eat]

What's the cranking compression? You done a compression check?

[freedom66]

compression is good 10lbs difference.been reading other forums and was wondering about the module.can the distributer module not work cause rpm loss or just not work or am i going in the wrong direction?other post have a guy being a top three car to goin to the back with a bad module. can a module not work properly and cause rpm loss or just not work at all... i thought it would work or not... timing is fine im stumped

[Milford Motorsports]

Usually when a module fails it fails completely,but it is electronic so anything is possible.A weak coil can limit high rpm spark,also using 18ga. wire to power the coil and module can cause problems.Bad coil wire?