burnt pistons

[swrracing99]

The problem just started this year. I havent been able to race that much due to the fact of rebuilding motors. What other plugs would you recommend for the vortec head?

[CNC BLOCKS]

The problem just started this year. I havent been able to race that much due to the fact of rebuilding motors. What other plugs would you recommend for the vortec head?

Hopefully your not using a dial back timing light !!

[Egoracing]

Also 3/8 line with a paper filter and E-85? Paper will saturate with water and can cause problems and any alcohol will absorb water. I would run a 1/2 inch line and a stainless filter.

[sj valley dave]

Agree with Ego 100%..Get rid of the paper in line filter...A good System 1 or equivilant with Stainless

[swrracing99]

Yep on the timing light. I have had 4 other people tell me about the fuel filter and line. Looks like I got some changing to do.

[CNC BLOCKS]

Yep on the timing light. I have had 4 other people tell me about the fuel filter and line. Looks like I got some changing to do.

Over the years I have seen more dial back timing lites burn pistons. I only like the one wire light from flaming river and the MSD dial back lite works fine.

Here are a couple of links to look over.
http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/sh...hp?tid/173877/

http://www.dragracingonline.com/tech...-lights-1.html

[dynoman14]

I am in on this late but I am not a big fan of the KB HT pistons, they have changed the way they are made in the last couple years, I personally think they have eliminated a heat treatment or hard coating session. They will tell you one thing or another but the hardness of them is down at least 10 points and they do not tolerate pre-ignition at all. In an effort to make the pistons lighter ( cheaper ) they have compromised the deck integrity of the piston where the top ring intersects the roof of the piston, by the intake valve pocket I have measured less than .060" of material there, not much when the rings get smokin hot from lean / dry condition and pre-ignition all at the same time. I am not sure the Forged ICON they make would survive that.

4412 on e-85 making 500hp reqires the same amount of fuel as your 750 open engine when it makes 500HP and it is using 4 big jets to get it done. That is a lot of work on a 2-BBl...

How big is the channel feeding the booster? How many holes in the metering block jet well and what sizes are they. Same with the power valve and the power valve channels. All of that needs to be updated for E-85.

Timing on the light is one thing, but combustion timing is another. Vortecs add about 10* of advance, projected tip plugs can add another 4-6* depending on how far they project. An e-85 engine like you are talking about should not need more than 24-26* to get the fire going. I am guess you are at the far lean end of the burn curve and the engine will run there but maybe only in a Drag racing application for 10-12 seconds at a time.

Nothing against you or your racing 300 wins and all but this combo ain't helping your cause none. If you have run it before... like I said there have been some major changes in your parts and how you get fuel to the engine.

[swrracing99]

Not sure what your talking about on the 500 hp and the 300 wins? I never said any of those things. All though I do appreciate your input. How could I check my combustion timing, with my regular timing light that is.

[sj valley dave]

I went back through this thread and no where do I see you listing your wins or HP...I think Dyno has mixed you up with a different poster..

[Jacob17]

Hey guys

Jacob here I also listen about this before but I don't believe that a car which have the worlds famous engine manufacturer engine. Actually A burned piston will typically have a melted appearance, or a hole burned completely through the top of the piston. Aluminum can only withstand so much heat, and when it gets too hot, it melts. The underlying cause is usually detonation and/or pre-ignition.

I hope experts are searching the way to stop the piston burning while driving.

[ncperformance]

I'm a late addition to this thread and have no interest in arguing with any of you. My suggestion is revisit the power valve. You said it has a 4.5 or 5.5. I own a dyno and alot of the two barrel engines we've run on it pull over 5 inches of vacuum at the upper end of the rpm band. We use an 8.5 in our two barrell stuff. Want to know how we came to investigate and learn this interesting tidbit? A 4412 equipped street stock engine that burnt some pistons. That's all I've got to say about that.......

[fast_crew]

If tuned and setup properly, the power valve can be used some what as a high speed lean out. BUT it has to be setup for this. Gas carb on friends street stuck uses a 3.5 or 4.5pvcan't remember off top of head. Get in touch with Dayton Umholtz at Kinetic Performance he can fix you up. This may not be possible with methanol.

[RW57]

A friend of mine did a Mopar 360 with KB Hypers and set the ring gaps by instructions included with the pistons it ran about 2 laps in hot laps and self destructed upon tearing it down it had jerked the top off of a piston the culprit too tight ring gaps they called KB and they told them that the gaps were too tight they explained to KB that they set them to the specs listed on the instructions turns out my friends figured out the formula KB uses is wrong or the paper they got was. Where they had .21 on the 2nd ring it actually needed like .31 they figured out the top ring was basically gapless when motor got hot when and piston expanded again they set them per KB specs needless to say it was an expensive lesson If you want to get them fired up all you have to do is mention KB Hyper pistons and stand back and listen LOL.