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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    3

    Default Front spring rate ,length setup question

    Im curious to try the soft spring front setup, small metric about looking to try about 800lf 700rf what length would you try? We can't run screwjacks, rear rates i've been running 13" 225 - 175 11" 1000lf 1300rf 160# bite with those spring rates not sure with softer fronts and reverse split, I want to try and be a lil informed on my decision making process. Any help or info would be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Here is some ideas front springs 11" LF 1100 to 1000 RF 1000 to 900 ,have built two cars one use 1100lf 1000rf the other 1000lf and 900rf .try and get your lower conrtol arms level center of lower ball joint to lower control arm bolt ,if you cannot use weight jacks cut some of left front don't make it any shorter then 10 1/2 short or it will walk arond on you in the seat. For the rear both cars uses 16" rear springs 150 lr and 100 rr the other car use 175lr and 100 rr. 200lbs of bite 53.7 to 54.0 inside rear is 53 for tacky track and as high as 55.7 on supper dry slick . our cars have to weigh 3100 after feature 360 9 to1 engine 2bbl rodchester no modifacations other then remove choke plate stock manifolds on exhaust and can run alumin intake (IMCA TYPE) street tires 10 inch max tread wth. race on 1/4 mile dirt med banking.things to watch for are LR shock extending out to far we use qa1 stock mt the are the longest one we have found the other shocks are bilstiens rf shock compress to much bottoms out ,rf control arm bottoms out on frame . Hope this helps got any questions let me know . I have a college degree from school of hard knocks and sure as h*ll don't know everything .LOL

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Ft Worth, Texas
    Posts
    235

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sneak View Post
    Here is some ideas front springs 11" LF 1100 to 1000 RF 1000 to 900 ,have built two cars one use 1100lf 1000rf the other 1000lf and 900rf .try and get your lower conrtol arms level center of lower ball joint to lower control arm bolt ,if you cannot use weight jacks cut some of left front don't make it any shorter then 10 1/2 short or it will walk arond on you in the seat. For the rear both cars uses 16" rear springs 150 lr and 100 rr the other car use 175lr and 100 rr. 200lbs of bite 53.7 to 54.0 inside rear is 53 for tacky track and as high as 55.7 on supper dry slick . our cars have to weigh 3100 after feature 360 9 to1 engine 2bbl rodchester no modifacations other then remove choke plate stock manifolds on exhaust and can run alumin intake (IMCA TYPE) street tires 10 inch max tread wth. race on 1/4 mile dirt med banking.things to watch for are LR shock extending out to far we use qa1 stock mt the are the longest one we have found the other shocks are bilstiens rf shock compress to much bottoms out ,rf control arm bottoms out on frame . Hope this helps got any questions let me know . I have a college degree from school of hard knocks and sure as h*ll don't know everything .LOL
    Down here in Texas most run the 13" rear springs on the metrics....what does the 16" ones do for you ??
    When yall talk about bite,,,,is that how much lead you use to get the rear % ??

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Bite is how much heaver the left rear is then right rear some people call it wedge, we run taller rear springs for three reasons . Buy raising our ride heights on the rear we can gain lower arm angle (from rear end up to frame) and trying to take upper arm angles out to help with forward bite and stores more energy or preload on rear springs . When we used lighter springs and taller our ride heights didn't change very much so arm angles are not that great of a change only a little. Been trying to get uppers arms level and more lower arm angles, but not to much . Taller springs also affect rear roll center.

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