Mastercylinder question.

[turner]

Hey guys. I have been running a dual mastercylinder setup ( wilwood) with 7/8" mastercylinders, and it worked great. I am running a new track now, and cant run a dual mastercylinder at this track. I put a 7/8 single on it now, and the pedal travel is really long. I am pretty sure i have all the air out of the lines. Do you think a 7/8 bore is to small( not enough volume? )The pedal gets hard at the bottom of travel and stops, but i have to push it atleast 4 inches. Would a 1" be better, or is this normal. I appreciate any info .


Thanks alot.

[3dinter]

Hey guys. I have been running a dual mastercylinder setup ( wilwood) with 7/8" mastercylinders, and it worked great. I am running a new track now, and cant run a dual mastercylinder at this track. I put a 7/8 single on it now, and the pedal travel is really long. I am pretty sure i have all the air out of the lines. Do you think a 7/8 bore is to small( not enough volume? )The pedal gets hard at the bottom of travel and stops, but i have to push it atleast 4 inches. Would a 1" be better, or is this normal. I appreciate any info .


Thanks alot.

disc brakes in the rear ?
try a residual valve a 2 lb or 10 lb on the rear
is the rod out of adjustment ?
i run a wilwood stock appearing master with drums in the rear on a 7.5 gm and a 10 lb residual valve with no booster and all lines going thru the distribution valve, kinda soft but feels like the old manual brakes. i aint stoppin on a dime....with slicks anyway on clay.

[turner]

Thanks for the info. We are thinking that since we went from( 2) 7/8 mastercylinders to (1) 7/8", the pedal will have to travel further to push the calipers out. We have a good pedal now, but we used to have to push the pedal aprox 2 inches to get 400 lbs, and now we have to push it aprox 3 1/2". Looking at it now, we probally should have went with a 1 1/8" , but it seems like its hard to get any info about mastercylinders on the racing forums. We will know after sunday. Thanks for your input dinter.