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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    220

    Default Getting Side Bite Out Of A Mastersbilt?

    Not sure what's gone wrong in my Smackdown, but I can't get enough sidebite out of it any more. I've done everything I can think of. Started off at 55% left have ran it down to 54%. Weight is high. Moved J bar from 8 1/2" to topped out at the frame and bottomed out at the pinion. Started off with RR shock laid inward further at the top and moved it so it's standing up more. Bars are LU-top LB-2 hole up. RU-Top, RB-Bottom with the adapter plates that shortens the bar 2". 200 LR Spring and 250 RR Spring. I'm lost. Ready to off this thing!!!!!!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    613

    Default

    How much travel are you getting/have available from ride height @ the rr shock?
    Does the car over steer,
    slide and tear up/heat up the rr tire,
    or drift up track all 4 wheels?

    More info will get you better help, obviously your frustrated!
    Last edited by jedclampit; 08-29-2012 at 09:56 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    193

    Default

    Start checking for cracks our 09 car was the same way, tons of sidebite when we first got it and 15 races started losing it , frame started cracking the welds.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    220

    Default

    I'll have to check my RR shock travel to give you an exact measurement, but I want to say it's around 4". I do oversteer to keep up with the rearend. I'm not tearing up any tires, but the right rear is coming in noticeably hotter than the LR and I'm getting no wear on the LR. The RF sticks, but the RR skates. Thanks Jed.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    220

    Default

    I messed up in the first post. I started off at 54% left and am currently at 53% now.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    613

    Default

    Are you never able to lean on the rr while cornering or does it give up while cornering?

    You have a lot of things adjusted to the extremes toward tight, could it be too tight.... and your pinching it off to get it to turn?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    220

    Default

    I've kind of wondered the same myself Jed. It gets on the right rear then gives up. I'm wondering if the RR is doing too much of the work and I'm not getting enough LR drive out of the car when I pick up the throttle. It's pretty good in and to the center, but just before I pick up the throttle, it wants to start skating on the RR and continues to coming off. I have started driving the car in harder and deeper this season. This could be caused by being too tight in and I'm having to rotate the car myself and breaking traction all together. Maybe I'll try to move some percentage back to the left and see what that does.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    613

    Cool

    A lot of ways to go, depending what is going.

    Sometimes a too much rr spring will kill sidebite when the track slicks off shearing the rr tires grip.
    Some people have alot of luck with more spring in the lr than rr if they tend to set the car down on the lr on entry

    -Do you trail brake...well?

    I don't think getting your left % back up is a bad idea at all.

    What you have on it shock valving wise can have a huge affect.

    -WHat do you have?

    -What springs are across the front?

    -And bite # you run?Wheel weights?

    -Ever try lowering the r upper bar, at all?

    Jed

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Central IL
    Posts
    654

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jedclampit View Post
    -Ever try lowering the r upper bar, at all?
    that was my thought, on first impression. sounds like could be as simple as too much RR drive angle.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    613

    Default

    How are you limiting axle drop on the lr?

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    220

    Default

    I do trail brake, but tend to set the car down on the LR because I like to run the dead bottom and don't run the big arcs getting in. RR valving is a 3.5 on comp and 5.5 on reb @ 60 psi (M2 Silvers by B&O). Springs across the front are 550 and 325. The RF is a dual stage with a 600 secondary spring on top and 700 primary on bottom. 120 lbs of bite. Wheel weights are LF 627 RF 530 LR 798 RR 686. 54% Left and 56% Rear. I have since moved some weight from left to right, so the left side percentage has been reduced from these numbers.
    This car has a full cast motor and has to weigh a minimum of 2500 lbs. It's a limited late on 10" Hoosier tires. There's the monkey wrench. lol. Also, I have ran the top right bar as far as 1 hole up from bottom and the car seemed to feel better, but I was told to increase side bite, I needed to raise that. Thanks guys.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    220

    Default

    The LR is limited with a chain and when the car is on stands I have 12 1/4" of droop. I want to say the last time I checked with only the LR jacked up I was around 15 3/4. But I will have to double check that.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    613

    Cool

    The 10" tires are fighting you for sure. Just when your using the rr at its max to corner, you call on it for forward traction .
    You got a bunch of stuff I'd swap off and get back to basics, especially the dual stage RF, RRL shortner, etc.
    But , may I suggest you try :

    putting the rr upper in the lowest hole, and taking away very close to 1% from the rear %.

    -OR-

    swap rear springs.

    Wish you luck catfish!,

    JED
    Last edited by jedclampit; 08-30-2012 at 10:47 PM.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    220

    Default

    I was thinking of taking the dual stage off as well. I'll reduce the rear percentage and swap springs too. Would you still suggest dropping the Right Top Bar along with these adjustments?

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    613

    Default

    putting the rr upper in the lowest hole, and taking away very close to 1% from the rear %.

    ****-OR-****

    swap rear springs.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    On the edge all the time
    Posts
    122

    Default

    Ya'll gave me a headache just reading this. The car is STANDING on the RR off and there is not enough tire there to do the job.

    53.5 left 54.0 rear up 25lbs on the rf spring and the MB setup from there. I would also consider less bite like under 75 lbs. JMO what have you got to lose?http://www.4m.net/images/smilies/cool.png

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    220

    Default

    Thanks guys. I'll give it a shot.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Rock Hill
    Posts
    85

    Default

    Do you have an adjustable nut to adjust your rf springs to where you can make it get on or off the bigger or smaller spring sooner or later?

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    220

    Default

    Yes, I have the lock nuts.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    431

    Default

    Is it a standard Smackdown? Could it be a Stuckey car? I'm not sure about now but some of the older Stuckey cars had different axle tube lengths and used a 6" offset wheel on the RR. It has been a while so I may be completely wrong too.

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