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  1. #1

    Default Engine Not Running, Need HELP!!!!

    I am having an issue with my engine.

    Background: SBC 359, 4.04 bore x 3.5 stroke, factory GM 601 heads that have been fully ported and polised, tallest Team G intake, Holley 650 double Pumper, MSD Digital 6AL, Blaster 2 coil, Professional Products Powerfire Distributor. Running Renegade 110+ (purple) and Renegae 20W-50 synthetic blend oil. Autolite AR13 spark plugs, Moroso Spiral Core plug wires.

    Issue: Engine will not run what so ever. The last race that I ran, we changed jets in the back bowl of the 650. Car ran like crap after for the feature, figured it was the back bowl stuck and flooding out. I had to keep the RPM up to keep the car running. Finally when I pulled off to the infield, the car died and has not started since. This is going on three weeks now.

    What we have done: Changed Carberator to a Holley 600 single pumper dual line, that the engine was broke in with, Changed out the distributor twice (one using the MSD, another was a factory HEI that is a known good), changed the Starter, ford soleniod, and 4 gauge wire from soleniod to starter, changed out spark plugs, cleaned original spark plugs, poured fuel down the intake to get it to fire. Everything we have done has not provided any results.

    The car turns over fine, it turns over slower than what we think it should. It is getting spark to the plugs. It will trigger a timing light, so we know that the timing is close. We are at our wits end with this motor. The season is almost over for the year, but we would like to run a couple of more times this year. This motor has basically two nights on it, but really only two hot lap sessions, one heat race, and one feature.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    147

    Default Thoughts

    Do a compression check on all 8 cyl.
    pull v covers verify rocker arms are moving.

    see what that tells you

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Glasgow, Kentucky
    Posts
    4,852

    Default

    How is the engine grounded to the battery? This would cause slow cranking ADN weak fire and would get worse when the engine gets warmer.

  4. #4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Egoracing View Post
    How is the engine grounded to the battery? This would cause slow cranking ADN weak fire and would get worse when the engine gets warmer.
    I would definetlysay that the ground strap needs to be replaced. I havent thought about that.

    i do not have a compression gauge. But when you stick your fingers over the spark plugs holes it has pretty good compression, very crud I know.

    I am out of town this week, when I get back on Friday I will put a new ground strap on it. If I can borrow a compression gauge from my Dad, I will check that.

    We pulled the valve covers, no signs of water and every rocker is moving appropiately, and they are all loose.

    Thanks for the help, any other suggestions, please let me know.
    Last edited by hot_rod; 09-10-2012 at 03:36 PM. Reason: forgot something.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Springfield IL
    Posts
    147

    Default Engine starting

    An engine needs three components to run, compression, fuel and ignition. Check all three separately, and eliminating each one as a problem area. Engine ground is good place to check, also battery voltage. Voltage should be 13.2 volts for a good condition battery. I have seen battery that have enough voltage and or amps, an to turn the engine over, but not enough voltage, and or amps left to fire the ignition. You said the motor was turning over slowly, could be ground or battery voltage. Do not look at it as a big problem, some small thing is the cause. Go through a step of eliminations to fine the problem.

    Mike Bulpitt
    26B owner driver

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    544

    Default

    I had a similar problem at the beginning of the year. It took two ground straps from engine to chassis to cure problem. Been great ever since. Spent a lot of money an the wrong stuff.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    310

    Default

    may have burnt/scuffed a piston or two. the last time i smoked a piston it did similar things. i would pull the vc breather off and put my hand over it see if you have alot of blowby. i hope it only electrical

  8. #8

    Default

    if you check for the compression, fuel and spark and find all good, pull the valve cover off and bring #1 or #6 up on overlap and check the timing mark tab and damper to see if the chain jumped a tooth. I use a short steel pocket rule and set it across the top of the retainers. when the rulers on one retainer is even with the other retainer look at the timing marks and see what you have.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Springfield IL
    Posts
    147

    Default hot rod

    Did you ever figure out the problem, just wondering what happened?
    Thanks

    Mike Bulpitt

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 26-62 racing View Post
    Did you ever figure out the problem, just wondering what happened?
    Thanks

    Mike Bulpitt
    We were able to work on it yesterday. We put a compression gauge on all the cylinders and only had 95 at the most. Most cylinders were around 80 to 85. We put some oil in the cylinders and were able to get the compression up to around 120 to 130 on all cylinders. We are going to be pulling the engine out this coming week and tearing it down to inspect for damage. I did put a new ground strap going from the block to the frame and the engine picked up some RPM when trying to crank it. But it still wouldn't crank, so I am done for the season. In the past three years of racing, I have not been able to finish out the season. Just my run of luck. I appreciate everyone's help in trying to get this thing running. When we tear it down, I will let everyone know what we find was wrong.

    Thanks Again,
    Adam Randolph
    AR15 Street Stock

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