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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    545

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    In my experience bite and/or wedge will help the car onto the rf. as weight transfers fr front the rear your lr will transfer to the rf an so on, so if you take weight away from the lr tire, you will be less likely to transfer that weight to the rf. another thing you need to think about is "helping the car get onto the rf/ right side" as speeds slow down. The slower you are going, the less weight you will transfer. Things like j bar rake and shocks will help this. What shock do you have on the rf and what sorta bite are you running?

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Nevada
    Posts
    270

    Default

    Wash Please check your PM.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,353

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    Charcoal01
    War shocks dry slick pkg and BSB dry slick pkg, both are low compression and slow to rebound with high gas pressure lr. Running 20-30lr bite, I guess I should have said wasn't really concerned about 5-10lbs difference.
    xxxmod
    The rr doesn't stick out past rf. That is what has me confused, we have enough rake(spec) to make it pin the rf but doesn't.

    One of the reasons we didn't catch this problem earlier in the year, was we were running Keyser lowers and thought this was normal since its made different and had to run an extention on shock. Got the Keyser bent and put stock lowers on and that is when we saw the problem. I mostly work on it by myself and only race when time/money allows. Thanks for everyones help.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    632

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    Maybe I missed it somewhere , how does the car handle ?????

  5. #25
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,353

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    Handles good except it really loose entry and on the throttle. We've tightened car up with bars as much as we can. 225 rr spring, IRC said it should be rolling onto the front more and we think that also. 4 different drivers and they all say the same thing. We put the car together so it might be something there but we've put cars together before and no problems.Thanks

  6. #26
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    632

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    Is this a spring behind car ???? My straight bar has 8 inch difference in height I think, lowering the rear roll center will give more roll but less weight transfer to the RR. You say your car is loose going in?????????? The rear wants to come around on you???? Is 4 1/2 inches of drop enough ??
    Last edited by Dirtrunner35; 10-15-2012 at 05:08 PM.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,353

    Default

    Spring behind car. We tried the straight bar in practice 1st of the year and it would bury the rf but we also had brake problems then on rf. I think I might just put the straight bar back on and give it a try in a couple of weeks. Loose on entry and loose on the throttle, it trys to break loose. Just need some traction everywhere. lol
    We started 17th the other night and passed a few cars and finished but 9th but needs to get better for me to able to keep racing. (bent lf spindle in heat) Thanks everyone.

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    111

    Default

    Rear end housing Straight?
    Square up the rearend with the midplate
    70-80lbs LR Bite
    go 15 points taller gear

    JMO

  9. #29
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,353

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    We did go up in gear(5.88-6.02) this past weekend but it was at a track we haven't run but once before. Going to put straight bar on for next race and have a lighter spring for rf if that it that doesn't help. Thanks again to everyone for the help.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    632

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by washeduptoo View Post
    Spring behind car. We tried the straight bar in practice 1st of the year and it would bury the rf but we also had brake problems then on rf. I think I might just put the straight bar back on and give it a try in a couple of weeks. Loose on entry and loose on the throttle, it trys to break loose. Just need some traction everywhere. lol
    We started 17th the other night and passed a few cars and finished but 9th but needs to get better for me to able to keep racing. (bent lf spindle in heat) Thanks everyone.
    If your loose going in and get on the throttle it will stay loose on the throttle, is your RR tire burning up?? Tire pressures ? Last year I drove someones spring behind car in practice and spun out 2 or 3 times, didn't like it, way to loose for me.

  11. #31
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,353

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    Think we found the problem, too low of front ride hts. Several contacted me and told me recheck at different place and it looks like its too low there. Maybe springs might be gone but only 10 races old. Will check next week after working these nights. Again I appreciate all the help and suggestions. Will everyone know after we run again.

  12. #32
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    632

    Default

    maybe your weight jack bolt is turning ??

  13. #33
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,353

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    Where we were told to measure on this chassis has the measurement specs calls but thats way low compared to where others told me to measure. Will check further next week. Thanks

  14. #34
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Germantown,IL
    Posts
    33

    Default help

    Make sure you shocks are not binding up we just found one the shaft was bent on and we had fought this for a month. Put them on a shock dyno and have them tested at high speed and low speed and make sure they are good. JMO

  15. #35
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,353

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    Thanks, that will have to wait to over the winter. We swapped all the shocks out but they could be bad too. Thanks

  16. #36
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,353

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    We didn't get to race because of the weather but car is ready to go. After raising the ride hts using a different check point, then checked where we had been measuring and we had the correct specs. Go figure, leason learned check more than one spot. Let yall know if we get to race and how it works. Thanks again.

  17. #37
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    SE MO
    Posts
    138

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    we were fighting the same thing on our Impressive, coar just had no drive, loose everywhere. Jumper went thru everything with us, ride heights were off. Readjusted heights and resqared rearend, it became a totally different racecar. We had to go back and take off all the "crutches" we had been using.

  18. #38
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,353

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    Glad you got yours figured out and hopefully we got ours ready thanks to the help of others. I knew after looking at my notes, we lost it when the Keyser got bent and swapped to stock, just never checked the ride hts somewhere else. I was too convinced it was in the rear somewhere until I changed everything and still had the problem. Then went thru the front end and found nothing, raced and still had problem. Again thanks to all and hopefully we'll get to race before year ends.

  19. #39
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    632

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    Quote Originally Posted by stpmotorsports View Post
    we were fighting the same thing on our Impressive, coar just had no drive, loose everywhere. Jumper went thru everything with us, ride heights were off. Readjusted heights and resqared rearend, it became a totally different racecar. We had to go back and take off all the "crutches" we had been using.
    So what fixed it, ride heights or the rear axle not being square ???

  20. #40
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    SE MO
    Posts
    138

    Default

    The rearend was square with the ride heights we were running. After changing all 4 heights, the rearend was out over an inch.
    That is a problem I have seen guys make, not rechecking and aligning everything after a chassis adjustment.
    Washedup, did you reset front heights to Jumper spec for stock lowers? There is a difference from stock to aftermarket lowers.

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