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Thread: bearing uppers

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    224

    Default bearing uppers

    Buying parts for rebuilding front suspension:

    Are the fancy bearing uppers by Howe and Joe's worth it?

    If so, how do I determine if I need straight up, or the angled ball joint mount?

    Discovered that the previous owner of the car had messed with the lengths from the setup sheets for my car..he had 10.5" LFU mounted inside with a 15" lower LF, and a 10" RF upper mounted outside, with a 16 5/8" RF lower. The setup sheets recommend 10.5" upper inside with 16 5/8" LF lower, and an 8.75" RF upper with an 18 5/8" lower. Thoughts on the overall effect I should expect with the car by going back to these baseline settings? Will it be difficult to achieve proper static ride height camber with those lengths on the RF? (I understand basics of roll center, but I think the parts on the car were haphazardly selected to be honest, so I just want an idea of what to expect)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    3,123

    Default

    Not sure on the bearing control arms. I've never used them. But you will want the angled ball joint deal on the RF with the amount of travel the RF gets now with most setups. I haven't found it to limit travel on the LF. I am also intrigued by the modular design that Joe's has but not sure if I want to go that route.
    What kind of car is this?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    224

    Default

    2002 Boss...supposedly Mastersbilt copy..just got real set up sheets for the car from someone else in the area that has the same chassis (Contacting the real builder is darn near impossible), and got the recommendations on lengths...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,016

    Default

    If you are supposed to have a 8 3/4" on the outside, but you have a 10" RF upper on the outside of the uprights, you can't have enough negative camber..You are 2" shorter on the lower and 1 3/4" longer on the upper...That RF tire must be straight up and down, if not having positive camber...

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    224

    Default

    This is partially my concern. With the current arms (10" upper outside, 16 5/8" lower), we were able to get the recommended -4* camber. If I change to the recommended arm lengths, will achieving the proper camber be an issue?

  6. #6

    Default

    Not familiar with boss chassis,but the chassis we run has 2 rf lower A/frame lengths available.When we change them there is a spacer that goes in upper to keep camber.Also have longer tie rod for longer bottom A/frame.Dont know if this will help you,just sharing ideas Ed B.

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