Results 1 to 14 of 14
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    544

    Default Steel swage tube strength?

    I had a problem last year with breaking front speedway brand swage tubes. Are the afcos or allstar brands any stronger? I know afco is owned by speedway but didn't know if there was a difference. I'm 100% sure the problem was from playing bumper cars "LOL" so I just need some input. Also what brand inner tierod is everyone using.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    DeWitt IA
    Posts
    414

    Default

    I build DOM tubes they will not brake like the swedge tube .I have sizes 4 1/2 - 18'' long instock and can make custom tubes aswell . MADE IN THE U.S.A tubing .

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    544

    Default

    Whats the price on two 11" bars.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    DeWitt IA
    Posts
    414

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    colchester il.
    Posts
    2,172

    Default

    swedge tubes are weaker by design. they heat the metal up once it's at temp. they put it in a press with a die and mandral to press it in to the size and shape. after that it goes to a threading operation. 9 times out of ten they break right behind the heated area. now you throw in the speedway/afco tubes are being made in china with cheap metal. I like many other's build and sell parts to local racers as well as racers online across the country and some overseas.


    performance advantage
    colchester il. 62326
    Last edited by racin6mod; 12-25-2012 at 09:05 AM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    544

    Default

    I'm slowly learning you save 3 or 4 bucks here and there and its costing me a TON more in the long run. Especially considering every time something breaks or fails I have to by it again.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    tulsa america
    Posts
    2,687

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jsf74 View Post
    I'm slowly learning you save 3 or 4 bucks here and there and its costing me a TON more in the long run. Especially considering every time something breaks or fails I have to by it again.
    I think the big loss would be when you are battling for the lead and one breaks. That $3-4 part just cost u 200-500

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Colstrip,MT
    Posts
    351

    Default

    You are right about playing "bumper cars" , never underestamate any contact.
    one idea is better have it break the first weak link, then deeper into the car.
    You can build your own out of 3/4 dom steering tubing, 5/8 tap drill, LH &RH fine thread taps.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    544

    Default

    Battling for the lead that's funny. I'm just trying to run mid pack for now.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Lock Haven, Pa
    Posts
    664

    Default

    I use chrome moly tubes

  11. #11

    Default

    I use the chromoly rods from Day Motorsports , they have lived through some pretty heavy contact.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    796

    Default

    The swedge tubes from performance bodies are good. Dont use swedge tubes on a pullbar, they will break and hurt you. Especially on long pullbars.Use the 3/16 wall tap tube.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Marengo IN
    Posts
    247

    Default

    Broke a tube on a pullbar once.......wow was that costly!

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    137

    Default

    Throw away swedge tube.

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