Where to move metric upper a arm mounts?

[475_enduro]

I want to move the upper a arm mounts on my metric car but im having trouble findind any info on what would be an ideal location to move them too. Id like to cut the mounts off the frame and reposition them for i can use less shims, so while i have them off id like to reposition them for better a arm angle also, anyone have any info/deminsions or whatever to where an ideal, or at least a better than stock position to have the upper a arm mount?? Thanks

[billy5]

lower them as much as you can on the frame..turn them as close to in line with the lower as you can...shim accordingly to the caster gain/loss you want....this may only work for me,but it seems to work good and it doesnt break the upper balljoints like i used to.

[racingford]

great question, reworking one myself. anybody with some pictures and advice on the best mount to buy or does one have to fab their own.

[clark]

Working on the same thing here too. Some pictures and input would be nice...

[dirtman45]

https://www.lefthanderchassis.com/v2...oduct=03210986

Like this kind but you would probably have to make your own if you wanted to keep the metric hole spacing.

[TeamTerminator]

Karls performance (jr Motorsports) has a bracket just like that for metric a arms. part number is UAAB.

[clark]

I think he is probably in the same boat I'm in. We want to move the STOCK upper control arm mount. So using the aftermarket one is out, I am trying to figure out where to reposition the stock one to after cutting it off..

[GraceRider]

A chassis builder may have a jig for this but I have done it twice on my own. I don't have any geometry details but these are the basic steps I went through:

1. Set all corner frame ride heights exactly like you plan to run them. Car pretty much on blocks all around. Record lower A distances from a point on the frame.
2. Cut & prep stock clam shell for placement.
3. Install A-frames, spindle and upper A bolted to clam shell unit (exact bushings, ball joints, uppers, etc. that you will run). I used stock upper A's. Note: I think the left IMCA approved tube upper may be longer than the stock upper A?
4.Proceed with tire, shock and spring removed. Assembly will be loose and you will need to block the lower A to get the proper height (use the recorded distances to set).
5. Move the clam shell to find the caster/camber that you desire. I tack weld the shell and check/recheck it (caster/camber).
6. When I get the caster/camber I want, I remove the block under the lower A and move the assembly through the complete range of motion to make sure it is free as possible without any binds.
7. If I like it, I block it back up and weld the shell, then re-check everything. For me this has been trail and error and I have easily spent a day getting it right.

If you discover a better/quicker method, please share. Best of luck!

[powerball]

Set your caster camber with your old stuff on there and then weld a tube from the spindle to the frame and from the a arm to the frame to hold it in place, cut off the upper and move it as you desire and weld up.

you are an IDIOT! i think you just like to tell people on here stupid zhit just to see if they will do it!

[powerball]

Umm yeah ok. I already know your my number one fan, you created a user name and for a quite a while all the posts you made using it were to bash me, lol. until you started using it to cry and post about ump.

Whats your other user name?

ive seen you run you are very fast! but that doesnt they way i feel about all your smartazz posts on here! YOU know for a fact there are lots of guys that will agree with me...

YOUR THE BEST " STREET STOCK DRIVER"

just keep it real bro

[DaveBauerSS6]

you are an IDIOT! i think you just like to tell people on here stupid zhit just to see if they will do it!

Actually I did that with the rearend. Had a raceable car and I wanted to install a new rear clip. I welded tubing from the cage to the rear housing. The rear clip was cut off and a new one fabbed. When I was finished in half the time the pinion angle, rear off set and shock heigths were perfect.
Been there and done that. Ill do it again the same way. Looks like it will work for the front end.

[powerball]

Actually I did that with the rearend. Had a raceable car and I wanted to install a new rear clip. I welded tubing from the cage to the rear housing. The rear clip was cut off and a new one fabbed. When I was finished in half the time the pinion angle, rear off set and shock heigths were perfect.
Been there and done that. Ill do it again the same way. Looks like it will work for the front end.

yes that will work for the rearend, but the frontend is a whole different ball game dave. if you do it the way the great street stock driver says to you will have no idea where your caster an camber is.... just saying

[fast_crew]

yes that will work for the rearend, but the frontend is a whole different ball game dave. if you do it the way the great street stock driver says to you will have no idea where your caster an camber is.... just saying

I like the idea and have to agree with Jeff, if you set your caster and camber and weld the spindle in place how is it going to change? Now granted, if your not sure what you want to do as far as lowering or leveling the mount to change A arm angles and such, you wouldn't be able to check the camber curve and effects with out cutting welds. Something I've done in the past is just measure camber against the rotor and cut and notch a small piece of tubing to contact the upper/lower ball joint studs on the little that sticks out of the nuts, so that the Caster can be read directly using a degree finder against the tube. You have to compensate for the small difference in stud diameters when using this method, bt no big deal .

[istock11m]

I don't see why it would'nt work on the front. If you weld supports to keep you desired static caster camber then fab your upper mounts, you can play with mounting angles and heights to get the desired gain you are looking for. I would take stock cars advice over 90% of the other people on here. Not trying to give him a big head, he just knows his stuff! Lol

[a1driver]

i'm one of the last people that usaully agrees with Jeff, but what he said will work!

[26-62 racing]

We did the same thing off a rear end the was centered and straight in the car and made a jig for the rear end brackets, to use on other rear end. I could see where that would work for the front, never looked at it that way. Good idea. See that is what is to be done on this site help each other out. If an idea does not work for you that ok also. No need to waste time trying to cut each other in the azz.

Mike Bulpitt
26B

[26-62 racing]

Jeff-
Do you move the mounts front to back any, lower the mounts, or just adjust for camber caster?

Mike

[mudcrasy]

I just did something simular. I can not move my mount so I came up with a way to mount the control arm at a different angle down word in the front. Once I had the mounting part figured out I drilled two 1/2 inch holes in a couple peices of 1 inch by 1/8 inch flat steel, bolted them on with the upper ball joint nut, set the caster camber where I wanted it and tacked welded them to the frame. Then proceeded to build my upper a arm to the lenght I wanted. worked really well.

[powerball]

yes and yes. But not the same way that everyone else does them around here. I dont know if my way is the right way or not, but it works well for me on the track.

lmao!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Steve_Voisinet]

Powerball,

Could you take your comments somewhere else please? Some of us are interesting in learning some valuable info on this site.

Thanks