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  1. #1

    Default What type pull bar works best on a super slick track?

    Running a 4 bar car with biscuit pull bar when track slicks over a lot we cant get traction. Is the spring bar better in the slick for forward bite?
    How about the adjustable hydraulic pull bars are they worht the money if they are legal?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    DeWitt IA
    Posts
    269

    Default

    both the spring and bars work well you just need to adjust the rate of them for the track. With the biscuit pull bar you will need to replace the biskets often. What biscuit bar are you running? Small or large?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    796

    Default

    They both are good or bad. A pullbar is a very small part of what makes traction. If the pullbar is right and a few other things ( springs, shocks, weight percentages, engine torque curve, carb linkage, drivers foot, stagger, etc.) arent right, the pullbar wont make a difference. People put too much emphasis on pullbars and overlook a lot of ather more important stuff. A pullbar that is too soft is no good. A pullbar that is stiff enough will get you 80 % of what you need. A bushing pullbar is more progressive than a spring bar, and therefore doesnt allow as much travel. Angle, length and left to right placement are all fine tuning adjustments, but wont hook up a car that isnt somewhat hooked up already. Biscuit type pullbars need the bushings replaced on a regular basis, they do go bad and lose traction. A spring that has coil bound on a pullbar also goes bad. A solid bar with no spring or rubber will give you enough traction to win if everything else is right. My advice is to make sure what you have is right, and spend your money on tires, rather than buying the latest greatest marketed part.. If a guy bought everything he could that was supposed to give him 2 tenths here, and 3 tenths there, he would be running laps faster than zero seconds.
    Last edited by HEAVY DUTY; 02-08-2013 at 07:08 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    197

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by HEAVY DUTY View Post
    They both are good or bad. A pullbar is a very small part of what makes traction. If the pullbar is right and a few other things ( springs, shocks, weight percentages, engine torque curve, carb linkage, drivers foot, stagger, etc.) arent right, the pullbar wont make a difference. People put too much emphasis on pullbars and overlook a lot of ather more important stuff. A pullbar that is too soft is no good. A pullbar that is stiff enough will get you 80 % of what you need. A bushing pullbar is more progressive than a spring bar, and therefore doesnt allow as much travel. Angle, length and left to right placement are all fine tuning adjustments, but wont hook up a car that isnt somewhat hooked up already. Biscuit type pullbars need the bushings replaced on a regular basis, they do go bad and lose traction. A spring that has coil bound on a pullbar also goes bad. A solid bar with no spring or rubber will give you enough traction to win if everything else is right. My advice is to make sure what you have is right, and spend your money on tires, rather than buying the latest greatest marketed part.. If a guy bought everything he could that was supposed to give him 2 tenths here, and 3 tenths there, he would be running laps faster than zero seconds.
    The deceleration part of the equation seems to be where all the R+D is happening as far as pull bars / lift bars go.....
    " Most of my drivers have been new to 4 link stuff and I believe most of their chassis issues are really my driver issues....... "

    see ya
    johnny v

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    796

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by johnny v View Post
    The deceleration part of the equation seems to be where all the R+D is happening as far as pull bars / lift bars go.....
    That is one reason I like the biscuit type bar. They dont have as much travel and dont rebound as hard into the brake biscuit. The harder they hit the brake biscuit on decell, the more they upset the car on entry.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    197

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    Quote Originally Posted by HEAVY DUTY View Post
    That is one reason I like the biscuit type bar. They dont have as much travel and dont rebound as hard into the brake biscuit. The harder they hit the brake biscuit on decell, the more they upset the car on entry.
    yes sir, and there is the loss of MOMENTUM...
    " Most of my drivers have been new to 4 link stuff and I believe most of their chassis issues are really my driver issues....... "

    see ya
    johnny v

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Nevada
    Posts
    270

    Default

    Agree with Heavy Duty. I've run both and could'nt tell any real difference. Also, for me, on dry slick throttle control is the biggest part of hooking up a car, IF everything else is set up correctly .JMO

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    558

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by HEAVY DUTY View Post
    That is one reason I like the biscuit type bar. They dont have as much travel and dont rebound as hard into the brake biscuit. The harder they hit the brake biscuit on decell, the more they upset the car on entry.
    Is everyone getting away from the red rubbers on the rebound side?? How soft do you use?
    Chris Zogg

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    796

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    I just use the regular rubber ford strut rod bushing on the brake side. I think tuning the brake side with different bushings might be hard to feel. They are only gonna move 3/8 to a 1/2 inch no matter what bushing you have.I think that there are a whole lot more effective ways to tune entry. I think guys are doing that to sell pullbars. I might be proven wrong but I like working where the gains or losses are more noticeable. When you are working with little things, it is hard to tell if the change made it better or worse or if the track changed.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    140

    Default

    Don't mean to hijack the thread but have a question that kinda fits the topic. Does the 90/10 or whatever valving one chooses shock have any different effects when moved side to side on the chassis and rearend? I've never ran a shock above the pull bar but last race of the season the pull bar mount broke out of the chassis causing a ton of damage. I'm thinking the top shock would have helped prevent this so I'm putting one on just not sure where to mount it side to side. Thanks for any help.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    colchester il.
    Posts
    2,172

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    I would center it the best you can. it does make some differance but nothing like moving the pullbar left or right.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    6

    Default adjust

    If car is working on tacky track couldnt you just put in a round of bite into the car? Sometimes 2 sometimes three? Assuming one round in the car is approximately è0lbs.

  13. #13

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TeamLFR View Post
    If car is working on tacky track couldnt you just put in a round of bite into the car? Sometimes 2 sometimes three? Assuming one round in the car is approximately è0lbs.

    Adding a round of bite how?

    Thanks for all the input

  14. #14
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,353

    Default

    I think he is talking about putting some rounds in the lr to add bite.

  15. #15

    Default

    I see, thanks.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    632

    Default

    give details about your car

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