question on pinion angle

[nthdrt]

On a 9 in ford rear end housing, the rear end is in a metric car with no 3rd member. If i put a magnet degree gage on the bottom of the housing will that give me a close idea of the pinion angle. The car is sitting on all four wheels. Thanks

[speedbuggy]

It will tell you half of what you need to know. You also need to know the angle of the driveshaft.

The angle between the pinion and the driveshaft, not the ground, is your pinion angle. Also, make sure your car is at racing ride height. Pinion angle changes depending on that.

[dirty white boy]

speedbuggy right...

[istock11m]

I'm with stock car. Measure it on the face of the housing or the yoke.

[RACIN43]

Alway remember that the pinion angle is the last angle on the car you want to set after scaling. Saying this you will change your % if the springs are coil on the housing. Always check and set the angle off of the yoke. If you are just putting the car together just snug it up in place until you get everything finished and set the pinion last. Just a little advise to keep you from having to redue it after your car is complete.

[Krooser]

So how do you adjust the pinion angle on a metric car that doesn't have any adjustments?

[dirty white boy]

racer43 sharring good info too... heres splicers take on it all...good luck

http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J3311-1-DSSP.pdf

[dirtplay18]

So how do you adjust the pinion angle on a metric car that doesn't have any adjustments?

You can re-drill your rear holes where the uppers bolt to the housing bushings. recommend welding grade 8 washers on the new holes as well.

[Krooser]

Drilling new holes is a grey area at most of the area tracks around here. But I will probably do this because I doubt the tech guys will give me any hassle when they see the bucket of bolts I bring to the track.

[Moldymulldoon]

Metric chassis with stock trailing arms, do NOT work like a leaf or bar car. You want the pinion straight with the drive line under power. With too much angle you will only create a bind in the universals. This advice will cause havoc and butt hurt drivers, but it is true. You will find out this after swapping out wore out and broken universals.
You can have the bushing get you some angle when under power. Push the rubber bushing out, drill your holes 90* to the steel insert. ON the front side of the bushing mark it and push it back in. STILL looks stock, but be warned they WILL wear quickly.
Just my opinion, do as you want.
Moldy

[a1driver]

you completely lost me on that last comment, wouldnt that tear out and just slam around after a lap or so? the car rolling/lifting with suspension movement and the rotation of the rearend upward are why you need - pinion angle.

[Moldymulldoon]

Metric chassis with stock trailing arms and stock location, pinion angle doesn't work the same as a bar or leaf car.
Many drivers drill holes in the bushings. IF they are drilled into the bushing at a 90* to the insert you cannot see it. Drilling from the end, the Tech man can see the holes. Anytime you drill a hole in an bushing it will wear out, making routine maintenance of the bushings a weekly thing.

[a1driver]

I'm not understanding why pinion angle doesnt work on a metric?

[zeroracing]

What he is stating is that you do not get axle wrap, like on a car with leafs or a torque absorbing device. The same is true for "put spring infront on LR for more drive on a solid three link..." Well no.

In a metric car with all solid links the rear end can only rotate in its motion path as set by the upper and lower link, it can not "wrap up" on its own like a leaf car.

[a1driver]

thank you, now i got what he is saying.

[Ricky76]

So do you not want pinion angle in a metric car ?