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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    271

    Default New dist install

    Running locked,drop in at 0TDC or 32 BTDC?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    1,261

    Default

    I don't run a crate motor but should apply all the same. My engine builder marked a line at 32* on my balancer. I bring the motor to that mark on the compression stroke. Drop distributor in with rotor facing #1 cylinder. Verify time with timing light set on "0" and make sure the mark lines up with the 32* on the balancer while running. I hit mine near perfect this last time and just had to slightly move the distributor.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    974

    Default

    ADDED NOTE when setting the timing on a crate engine

    when a distributor is locked we tradionally think that there is no reason to elevate the RPM any higher than what it takes to remove gear lash between distributor and camshaft.

    On a crate engine that is NOT true

    the RPM should be elevated to whatever point that the timing stops moving

    normally you think your looking at advance----on a crate engine it is actually retarding

    the reason is because of the timing chain that is used is flexing----we have seen as much as 5 degrees flex in some chains

    checking the timing frequently on a new engine or a newly freshened engine is critical-----the flex in the chain will calm down after awhile but checking your timing is a good maintenance area anyway

    this is written out on our website under the FAQ tab

    Brad
    www.race-1.com

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    237

    Default

    And if you mark 0 on the balancer you would set your timing light to 32.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    3,123

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dirt0 View Post
    And if you mark 0 on the balancer you would set your timing light to 32.
    Do yourself a favor and don't rely on a timing light that does the advance for you. Measure from the marks on the balancer as the engine fires on number 1.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    974

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Matt49 View Post
    Do yourself a favor and don't rely on a timing light that does the advance for you. Measure from the marks on the balancer as the engine fires on number 1.
    AGREED 100%------we have an entire corner filled with engines that fell victim to a high tech dial back timing light

    if one of our customers doesn't have a traditional NON adjustable timing light we will be glad to buy them one----its cheaper for everyone in the long run

    Brad
    www.race-1.com

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    1,261

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by brad hibbard View Post
    AGREED 100%------we have an entire corner filled with engines that fell victim to a high tech dial back timing light

    if one of our customers doesn't have a traditional NON adjustable timing light we will be glad to buy them one----its cheaper for everyone in the long run

    Brad
    www.race-1.com
    I use this timing light and just leave it on "0" advance. That good enough? one thing I did notice is that it has problems reading the RPM off the wire with the MSD. With my HEI it did not. It will read it at say 2400 and just sit there unless I unplug and plug it back in then it will give a reading and never update.

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ag=lawsraci-20

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    1,261

    Default

    I called MSD about it. They said they don't recommend dial back or "digital" timing lights for MSD. The old Craftsman "chrome" light was the better one. They did say that you can try to use a digital one and if you can't get a good read (not bouncing around) then you will need a different light.

    RPM readings might be because I didn't check the direction of the inductor. It matters apparently when reading the RPM.

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