shock help

[grydergeyer26]

my car weighs 3000 pounds
lf is a 5/3 rf 7/2 springs lf 800 rf 900
lr 225 rr 175

lr 8/2 rr 5/3

i need the car to handle better when it goes dry

[7uptruckracer]

add bite drop RR Compression, 7 compression is alot on a RF to Knock that down as well. Thats a start

[racing_kid]

call bryan at bryke racing, he can get you a good set of integras for 260 and will help you with valving. your post says you have easy ups on all 4 corners, try something like a 3-5 or a 4-6 on rf and a 4 or 3-5 on rr that will allow the car to get on the right side more and try swaping front springs?

[setup479point2]

Keep it simple 5 LF , 6 RF , 4 LR , 4 RR . If you've been driving for awhile then you might try other shocks . From what you say is on the car , you haven't messed with this stuff much , which is OK . Thats why I say keep it simple.

[grydergeyer26]

what r pop up shock numbers and tie down number trying to learn this stuff

[7uptruckracer]

Pop Up is low rebound sometimes coupled with higher compression tie down is a lower compression high rebound shock. You shocks look pretty good for the slick minus a few tweaks you don't want to tighten entry in the slick like most seem to think you need you need the car to keep turning but add drive off so going the baseline someone suggested from what you have now will do the opposite of what your goals are for the slick.

[setup479point2]

Pop Up is low rebound sometimes coupled with higher compression tie down is a lower compression high rebound shock. You shocks look pretty good for the slick minus a few tweaks you don't want to tighten entry in the slick like most seem to think you need you need the car to keep turning but add drive off so going the baseline someone suggested from what you have now will do the opposite of what your goals are for the slick.

You really think the shocks on his car are OK ? The only one that looks ok to me is the LF, we are talking streetstock. What would you suggest he use?

[7uptruckracer]

I'd be willing to bet they might be Bilstein numbers. Besides the Compression in the LR if they are afcos or pros yes if you add in my suggestions for the slick the RF would need to be more like a 3-7 and knock the RR compression down the LR will be losing weight during transfer so the rebound needs to be lower and tone the compression down some maybe to like a 5-3 or 5-2 but adding rebound will hurt him in the slick on the LR as well as adding compression in the RF and taking away compression in the LF for the slick will all hurt him if hes after bite and drive those simple number are fine in the heavy though but you can't expect that to work as well as split valves in the slick

[7uptruckracer]

If it we mine I'd have 4/6 on LS in the heavy. 6RF and 5 RR, In the slick I'd have a 5 compression (rebound would depend on car type but for street stock a 5-3, RF 3-7 and RR 3-5. If that clears up anything

[grydergeyer26]

what if i run a straight 4 on rr
then do i want more rebound on the rf

[setup479point2]

my car weighs 3000 pounds lf is a 5/3 rf 7/2 springs lf 800 rf 900 lr 225 rr 175 lr 8/2 rr 5/3 i need the car to handle better when it goes dry

OK tell us what make shocks are on each corner of your car please.

[junebug]

my car weighs 3000 pounds
lf is a 5/3 rf 7/2 springs lf 800 rf 900
lr 225 rr 175

lr 8/2 rr 5/3

i need the car to handle better when it goes dry

is ur car a leaf car or coil car....if coil is it a stock 4link or a 3link type....im kinda assuming its coil by shocks n springs u got....i would suggest 4lf 5-9rf 8-4lr 4rr for shocks if it is a coil car

[setup479point2]

Keep it simple 5 LF , 6 RF , 4 LR , 4 RR . If you've been driving for awhile then you might try other shocks . From what you say is on the car , you haven't messed with this stuff much , which is OK . Thats why I say keep it simple.

I recommended this because I know it works , one of my streetstocks I built had these on Saturday , he went from last ( 20 to 24 cars not sure ) to 7th in 10 laps , then we got a flat . Track was slick . I post things that I know work. By the way from what I've seen on here" stockcardriver "seems to be respected for his knowledge so he's probably worth listening to.

[junebug]

All those shock rates confuse me and for sure would make a mess out of my car.

I don't buy into 4 split valves doing much good. rf and lr or rights.

was not at all meant to be confusing and shocks have come along way since the days where u could only run split valves in the slick glass smooth tracks...all I was thinking with my shock suggestion was you should tie down the rf and keep comp in the lr...on the coil cars everyone has learned if u keep em pinned on the rf and keep bar angle in the lr they seem to go fwd better and also seem to roll the center better like that....on a leaf type car tho I would definitely say things are alot different tho

[setup479point2]

Those pics are great , never seen a street that hooked and I been settin cars up since 1980. Mine go but don't get up on the bars that much .

[racer21]

Whats the trick to keeping bucket and spring lined up and not eating shock!! Or you on long springs?

[Driver88]

Im not saying its the right thing to do. But I moved the bottom of my shock and drilled new holes.

[rcstreet1]

stock car driver- what are you doing to make it hook up like that and lift so much..bite , lead, sprung light or what

[rcstreet1]

thatst not very much rear..how you get by with that. wht you do different with your rear ends

[7uptruckracer]

Metric Four Links have a high rear roll center location so if the rear weight is that low its because the pickup points have been moved to change the thrust angles, instant centers and roll centers. which can be very effective in gaining drive off compared to a stock metric four link but if its not allowed at your track its easy to catch if your tech officials know what they are doing. Keep in mind on a car that over hikes to much thrust to push a car upwards means its not pushing a car forward.