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Thread: over heating

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    168

    Default over heating

    now that's it 105 out
    I am pushing 240 degrees 5 laps n and that's were it stays constantly
    I got two dash 6 lines going to the radiater the block is completely plummed from top to bottom
    I have a 3/8 restricter n the thermostate housing
    I have a 6 blade fan
    I use hyberlupe so kinda confused on what to do its a 400 so I know heat is a issue

  2. #2

    Default

    Why the restrictor? Take it out our put a stewart racing T-stat in it. Also, the hi pitch 4 blade 18" or 19" fan will move more air than a plastic 6 blade will.
    Bill W. and Dr. Bob......who could have known.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    168

    Default

    ran one twice ran hotter

  4. #4

    Default

    A friends car is running gas(IMCA Mod) with a triple by-pass radiator, Stewart stage 3 pump, Stewart racing t-stat and a 19"GM 4blade steel fan. Runs 210 in central Texas summer heat.

    It's the total combination.

    My car has a dual pass radiator, Stewart stage 3 pump, lines from the back of intake to the t-stat housing, lines from the bottom hole in block to the water pump, 4 blade steel 18" high pitch fan and no restrictor. Ran 180 breaking in the cam.

    Point is, your problem may be any of these. Check the radiator closely foe blocked fins or any damage.

    Also, all of my lines are #8. Both cars have 30% reduction pullies.
    Bill W. and Dr. Bob......who could have known.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    632

    Default

    Make sure the tubes are not swollen

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    982

    Default

    A GM fan,,,sticking half way out of your"not mentioned" fan shroud,,no restrictor with 1to 1 pullies unless your are turning more than 7000 RPM's will do the trick on any 400. That is also along with your plumbing lines you mentioned,,,,I have been around the tracks for over 50 years and I have seen the radiator be the culprit more than once,,,If you bought it used,,,they sold it for a reason....Many people ruin their radiators with the pressure washers,,,,bend the fins over,,,and also if the radiator was on a car that blew a head gasket,,,it swells the tubes and air can not get through,,,Buy a new one every year,,cheap insurance for a high cost motor,,,Just my 2 cents worth
    We build fast race cars,,not race cars fast!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Auburn, IL
    Posts
    2,854

    Default

    These things help your ability to keep cool:
    1) Distilled water
    2) 1:1 pulleys
    3) good shroud with fan blades half in and half out of it
    4) 17-19 inch GM 4 blade fan- no flex fans
    5) No water restrictions
    6) Single or double pass radiator... triples are not needed
    7) Lines on intake front to back
    8) Lines from water pump too heads
    9) New and maintaned radiator
    10) Good quality hoses-cheap ones have tendicy to collapse and bulge and/ or balloon
    11) Upper hose level or as close to level from intake outlet to radiator inlet
    12) Good quality water pump

  8. #8

    Default

    A new or good radiator cap also . I spent A few hundred dollars on water pump and things and it turned out to be a bad cap. Replaced the cap and things back to normal.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    168

    Default

    my intake sit higher than my rad and brand new fsr rad so no junk
    30 degrees of timing so not pushing it thier
    my hose run from back of the intake to the side of the thermohousing then to the radiater
    and new lines and everything

  10. #10

    Default

    30 degs timing may be to low causing overheating and hot exhaust temps..

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    262

    Default

    andrew is unable to login so im posting for him. the problem was the restrictor was to big. the engine hes running befor we installed the fsr radiator ran a 1/2 whole now that we are running 2 -6 lines so we had to close up the restrictor whole from 1/2 to 3/8 and problem solved.
    jared flower

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    262

    Default

    billy5 the exhaust temps are 250-275 at idle and go up 100degress for every 1500 rpm so at 4500 its at 500 but only on the driver side its down to 300 on the passinger side why would the other side of the engine egt's be so low ?
    jared flower

  13. #13

    Default

    egts at wide open throttle should be close to 1000deg. sounds rich or retarded timing...

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    262

    Default

    i know it should be 1000-1100 with load at wot but is what im asking is why is each bank of the engine running at such a big difference in egt's
    jared flower

  15. #15

    Default

    big cam,,,,intake reversion...intake manifold vs exhaust design.....lots of variables at part throttle no load...never done a egt test not without it being loaded so not sure.....

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    262

    Default

    ya very big .600 in .560 ex vic 2bbl intake 180 headers 4" exhaust
    jared flower

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    262

    Default

    btw thats with lash
    jared flower

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