Steering Box Shimming Okay?

[rangerover]

On a metric Stock Car, I'm renewing the front suspension and steering by installing all new components. When I went to install the center link or drag link with a new idler arm and steering box both bolted to either frame horn, the drag link would not fall into place. I got it to go in only by loosening the idler and removing 2 out of the 3 steering box bolts (lower two). The idler now tightened up okay, but the box needs to be spaced out from the frame horn about a half inch on the lower two bolts for the steering to work. I added about 5 or 6 washers as spacers to each of the lower bolts and snugged all three bolts back up. The top bolt needed no spacer. The bolts got some solid threads on the box but did not go all the way through. If I decide to leave it like this, I'll probably get 1/2" longer bolts to make sure I got full clamping on the box. I guess the the car has been hit enough in the past that the frame dimensions are not exact anymore, but will it be okay to space out the steering box like this to allow proper movement of the steering components? Thanks.

[RACEMAN]

If it doesn't fall into place normally (without effort) then I think you have some mismatched parts. Or maybe something's damaged.

In any event you shouldn't have to resort to extreme measures to put it back together. Something's wrong. Figure it out before you go to the track.

I'd want to know my steering was correct before I start driving. Don't jerry rig something as important as steering.

[LOGANSTANFORTH]

I just spent roughly a 1000 bucks on my steering and that was all brand new Moog steering pieces, stock pitman arm from the car, new 12.5:1 Z28 box, new steering shafts, supports and joints and a Sweet collapsible column and coupler.

dont skimp, something is wrong...

[rangerover]

I hear you guys on the importance of steering. I also went with all new Moog components instead of the much cheaper versions. What gets me is that the car was working and steering just fine up until I decided to do all this recent upgrading. What changed is the steering box itself, the replacement idler and the new Afco drag link that moves the tie rods out a little further to improve geometry/bump steer. My old box was working fine, but I opted for one of those CJR ones on eBay in an effort to improve. It's a 16:1, 235 valving box that I'll be using with a 2:1 Afco quickener. I installed the same exact pitman arm that I had been using and of course it bolted into place with the original three bolts. It does have another location for a fourth bolt that I'm not using, but I don't believe that makes any difference. Do you guys think the Afco drag link would be the cause of the problem?

[Racer96m]

The Afco center link is just a 82 Camaro link, dont think that is your problem. Your problem is you have bent frame horns. Been there done that. A small amount of bend isint a big deal if your steering isnt binding. If it is you need to get the horns re squared. And one more thing, that 235 T Bar valving in your steering box is going to be a mother to turn with a 2-1 quickner. Way stiff and then you want to turn it twice as fast, so you wont like it. Needs to be 170-185 on the T Bar valving, then you will be able to turn the wheel with one finger, just a FYI.

Dave

[rangerover]

Dang it! That's not what I wanted to hear on the steering box, LOL. That's actually what I was really trying to avoid- hard steering. I let somebody talk me into getting the 235 to "get good driver feel", but I was hoping it wasn't going to be too hard. Been there, done that, the shirt was too small...

Thanks for the tip, Dave. I'm going to see about exchanging it. I'd rather eat the hefty shipping than have to deal with super hard steering again. So you recommend 170-185?

[Racer96m]

Ya 235 is an asphalt valving and stiff for that. Maybe like a Daytona Box that you turn very little. I have a 16 to 1 box and use a 2-1 quickner and 170-185 is where you want to be. If someone locally rebuilds steering boxes, you might check into just getting it re valved. But 235 at 2-1 you will have to be the Hulk to turn it.

Dave.

[Driver88]

With the afco center link you have to cut down your tie rods or get shorter ones. Don't know if this will help any.

[rangerover]

That's right. I cut off about 3/4" from both inner and outer tie rod ends and got the same lengths I had before. This left some margin for toe adjustments, but still has at least 1.5" into the center adjuster threads.