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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    3,123

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    What I said does not in any way imply or infer that "all cars are the same". Once again, you spun my words in an effort to tear down a very good statement that I made because you don't understand it. I'll try to explain.
    You said one thing that is true. It is impossible for all cars to be ideal for all track shapes, conditions, and driving styles. That's why the baseline setup for any given chassis manufacturer does not work for everybody: different track shapes, track conditions, and driving styles.
    Any car can be adjusted (from the baseline) to meet the driver's needs but it might not necessarily be comfortable or feel like a meaningful compromise to the driver. What do I mean by meaningful compromise?
    There are some very highly respected drivers at the national level that have a particular driving style and the car needs to be a certain way for them to be comfortable and successful.
    What a great many people fail to understand is that almost any setup adjustment you make is a compromise. The baseline setups are designed to be a happy medium but it may not feel right to every driver. From there, there are a million ways to tighten or loosen a race car. Some of these changes will make the car feel better to the driver but not make it any faster on lap times because it compromises something else. But some of these changes will make the car feel better to the driver AND make the car faster because it doesn't compromise as much (if anything noticeable at all).
    For example, someone is trying to tighten corner entry because the driver says it's too loose on entry. What do you change? I can list about 20 things that will tighten the car on corner entry. But only maybe three of them will make the car better on the stop watch. And for a different chassis brand, those same three adjustments might slow the car down. Different designs, different baselines, different reactions to changes.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    NW , PA
    Posts
    188

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    You've answered your own question with that last post . You are the driver , and only you can tell whether a particular car will work for you . Every driver wants a different feel. I know one driver who absolutely loves the orange rocket and another who totally hated it . He went back to his other and started running up front. So anything we tell you really won't help you much. Thats probably not the answer you want , but there is no magic chassis.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1,336

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    Most chassis designs are geared towards the big shows (Dry Slick tracks) these days because thats the hardest to setup for and thats where all the manufacturers run. They use to just try to tighten cars up as the night progressed for dry slick but then they ended up with cars that didn't turn on entry but had all the exit drive they wanted. The new name of the game is getting it to turn on entry while maintaining exit drive, You find the more momentum you can keep the less physical drive you need in a car. Some of the cars are spindle changes and steering arm changes (BLUE?Grey) that drivers don't like the way they feel because they steer different then what they have been I know Richards doesn't like the Orange car if hes even on it now I know in February he said he still ran the blue grey that its his favorite. A could be faster then B but if the driver isn't comfortable he won't be quicker in it.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    3,123

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    Quote Originally Posted by 7uptruckracer View Post
    Most chassis designs are geared towards the big shows (Dry Slick tracks) these days because thats the hardest to setup for and thats where all the manufacturers run. They use to just try to tighten cars up as the night progressed for dry slick but then they ended up with cars that didn't turn on entry but had all the exit drive they wanted. The new name of the game is getting it to turn on entry while maintaining exit drive, You find the more momentum you can keep the less physical drive you need in a car. Some of the cars are spindle changes and steering arm changes (BLUE?Grey) that drivers don't like the way they feel because they steer different then what they have been I know Richards doesn't like the Orange car if hes even on it now I know in February he said he still ran the blue grey that its his favorite. A could be faster then B but if the driver isn't comfortable he won't be quicker in it.
    Very good points. The big checks get written when the track is black slick.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    613

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    Quote Originally Posted by hucktyson View Post
    I'm looking for a car that turns in and rotates really well and will still drive off on big slick momentum tracks. The car must be able to run 1600's or open tires and still work and also needs to rotate in hammer down mud conditions. I'm interested in hearing people's opinions on this... I want a car that turns without having to break it free .. Something that is meant to be driven STRAIGHT and will rotate
    Sounds like you need a experienced crew chief... not another new car.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    2,319

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    Good post 7uptruckracer. You nailed it in my opinion. They don't build cars for gumbo racing anymore. You go from a good gumbo car over to these new cars and run it on the gumbo and think the (not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word) thing is going to fly apart anytime. Everything rubbing....flexing............moving around.I actually like that challenge, really.
    BUCKLE UP NOW, YA HEAR?

  7. #27
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    799

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    Quote Originally Posted by hucktyson View Post
    The gen x car does none of this. It it's balls tight on entry no matter what, tight entry kills momentum. I have tried everything to make this car turn in an rotate except 1400lb 1" rebound numbers on the right front. When the extent of my tech support is a set up sheet from 2010 when the car was built sept of 2011 and the I only help i was really offered is that I need a " magic " genesis shock for the right front it's time to go a different direction.
    Have you tried taking side-to-side out of it, usually the best way the free up on entry. The "magic" genesis shock is a really good piece too. It's real high rebound so it lets you turn in really good on the gas, and the stack spring combo will give the car a lot of drive coming off as well.

  8. #28
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1,336

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    You must mean dual stage not stack spring. If you ever wanna try that a 700/400
    Combo is the norm paired with a shock that will allow it to operate as intended. You just need to go through your GenX see where your at on every bar angle birdcage index and Shock setting particularly your LRF (SOOOO overlooked and can really help a car get in) if you need help message one of us

  9. #29
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    490

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    Are you still gaining speed as you try to turn? Do you blow past people at turn entry? Try a deeper gear so the car peaks earlier and just maintains the last portion of the straight and the car will turn better.

    SPark

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    668

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    I got a 2010 Shaw Late model by Purkey for sale. Car runs well, pocketbook just isnt deep enough to keep running. PM me if you are interested. Ill do $10,000 turn key.

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