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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Post Falls,ID
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    1,579

    Default Escort Caliper Brackets

    Anyone know where to get Escort Caliper Brackets for the Ford 7.5 rearend? I have tried to get ahold of FLYNBRYN but no luck.
    No matter how hard you try...you cant fix stupid!!!

    If you build it right...it will turn left!!!

    www.raceidaho.com

  2. #2

    Default

    why are you using escort break brackets?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Lewiston ID
    Posts
    293

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by oliver racing View Post
    why are you using escort break brackets?
    This is a fairly popular brake upgrade for the Fox Mustang rear brakes for Oval track racing. The person Eric was trying to reach used to sell a kit to mount & install them.
    JerryM

  4. #4

    Default

    will they fit my mustang if I go get them out of the junk yard?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Post Falls,ID
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    1,579

    Default

    no,these are weld on brackets that you weld to the rearend housing
    No matter how hard you try...you cant fix stupid!!!

    If you build it right...it will turn left!!!

    www.raceidaho.com

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Post Falls,ID
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    1,579

    Default

    ok...any brake gurus out there that can point me in the right direction?
    1986 fox body mustang with manual brake adaper in firewall,Wilwood Tandem Master 7/8 bore, part number 260-9439...front brakes are all stock with new calipers and cross drilled and slotted rotors,all new metal lines to wilwood proportioning valve right next to driver,then back to new 1989 escort front calipers on escort cross drilled and slotted rotors.
    we can get full front brakes,but no rear brakes,we have replaced all lines, all fittings,everything is inverted flare fittings to double flare lines,the escort calipers originally took a banjo fitting,so re-tapped them to a 3/8-24 and screwed in a female inverted flare, then ran the rear lines into those,no matter what we try,we cannot get rear brakes,we are over a month into this battle and so far have went through over 2 gallons of brake fluid,used the old fashioned method of someone pumping brakes,then crack bleeder,also used a vacuum pump,then an air powered vacuum pump,then a phoenix brake injection system...have had the same results with 3 different stock masters,and now this wilwood master,also eliminated the factory distribution block and residual valve,so the primary line from master goes to a T which then goes to RF and LF brakes,the rear(secondary) then goes to wilwood proportioning valve then to rearend,then out to escort calipers,have tried bypassing proportioning valve with same results,also tried switching the rears to the front to see if master was the issue,no such luck...PLEASE HELP..i have been pulling my hair out over this issue.

    Sincerely, Going Bald in Idaho
    Last edited by car62; 04-24-2014 at 12:05 AM.
    No matter how hard you try...you cant fix stupid!!!

    If you build it right...it will turn left!!!

    www.raceidaho.com

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    100

    Default

    do you have fluid at the rear calipers? Does the master sit level or is the front higher than rear?

  8. #8

    Default

    Have you tried using a brake pressure gauge to determine if there is the appropiate pressure at the rear brakes? It may help point you in the right direction. Even though the front brakes seem to be working there may be something in the line going to the rear brakes preventing them from getting the correct pressure. It is worth the time to help isolate the problem. Someone near you must have a brake bias gauge setup.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Post Falls,ID
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    1,579

    Default

    yes there is fluid at the rear calpers,bleeder valve is the highest point on the rears,master sits level
    No matter how hard you try...you cant fix stupid!!!

    If you build it right...it will turn left!!!

    www.raceidaho.com

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    100

    Default

    If your absolutely sure you have removed all air, and sounds like you are, then I am going to give you the same advice I gave you on your other thread about this. Get the residual pressure valve from my earlier post. Place it at the master cylinder. I know what wildwood and the other "experts" say. I have had this same issue before and little valve is like magic.

    you can also install a pressure gauge in the bleed hole and see if you are getting the proper pressure. If you have normal pressure look at the calipers. If you are using used parts that you don't know the history of, make sure the pistons move and are not frozen in the bore.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Post Falls,ID
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mtbailey View Post
    If your absolutely sure you have removed all air, and sounds like you are, then I am going to give you the same advice I gave you on your other thread about this. Get the residual pressure valve from my earlier post. Place it at the master cylinder. I know what wildwood and the other "experts" say. I have had this same issue before and little valve is like magic.

    you can also install a pressure gauge in the bleed hole and see if you are getting the proper pressure. If you have normal pressure look at the calipers. If you are using used parts that you don't know the history of, make sure the pistons move and are not frozen in the bore.
    so put a 2psi valve right at the master for the rear brakes? or should i get 2 of them and do it at both the front and rear?
    No matter how hard you try...you cant fix stupid!!!

    If you build it right...it will turn left!!!

    www.raceidaho.com

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    100

    Default

    Since you have front brakes, and don't have rear brakes, for now just the rear. You should check the pressure at the caliper first though. You didn't answer if you have used calipers......

  13. #13

    Default

    You could start off by just putting one on the rear line but i would do both at same time (front and rear) so you don't have to do it later. Yea 2# are for disc brakes.
    Daniel #27 mini stock

  14. #14
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    May 2007
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    Post Falls,ID
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    Default

    oh sorry,yes EVERYTHING is brand new
    No matter how hard you try...you cant fix stupid!!!

    If you build it right...it will turn left!!!

    www.raceidaho.com

  15. #15

    Default

    Where did you find your rear caliper mounts at?
    Daniel #27 mini stock

  16. #16
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Post Falls,ID
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    Default

    i made them
    No matter how hard you try...you cant fix stupid!!!

    If you build it right...it will turn left!!!

    www.raceidaho.com

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    100

    Default

    Well did it fix it?

  18. #18
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Post Falls,ID
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    Default

    no it didnt,i tried both a 2psi and 10psi...we were able to block off the RR and that gave us enough brakes to actually make the 1st race,but really need that 4th brake...same results with blocking off the LR,so even though rearend is welded,we figured block off the RR brake and go race for now...i feel like maybe the 7/8 master isnt big enough??
    No matter how hard you try...you cant fix stupid!!!

    If you build it right...it will turn left!!!

    www.raceidaho.com

  19. #19

    Default

    Sounds like it.
    Daniel #27 mini stock

  20. #20

    Default

    You just might try reading up on how to properly size a mater cylinder to your calipers that you have and to set up the proper leverage that is needed.

    https://www.markwilliams.com/braketech.aspx

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