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Thread: Starter car

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    294

    Default Starter car

    I'm getting ready to scratch the itch of dirt track racing that I've had the last 2 years. I've found what I think to be a good turn key starter car, spare parts, tires, wheels, and open trailer (pretty much everything but a helmet and firesuit, owner is getting out of racing completely). It's an older 98 GRT with what looks to have a lot of new suspension components. Has a 604 crate with 7 races since refresh. Brinn tranny. Will need a new body soon but it's race able. It has been clipped on a GRT jig at a reputable shop. Questions: Is the crate class too advanced for a beginner? Also, if I could get in this operation for say 7 to 8,000, does it sound like a good deal? Any tips for someone starting out? And finally, what are some things to check before buying this car?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    3,119

    Default

    My 42 year old son is starting his "career" this year in a b-mod. I thought he should start in a street stock because there is sooo much to learn on set-ups, scaling, driving, engine performance, etc.

    If you can find a good crew chief who has experience with late models or modifieds you will be at an advantage. Without a knowledgeable person to help you I think you'll be chasing your tail for quite a while…

    I have seen new drivers go head first into the driving deal only to be overwhelmed by the complexity of a modern dirt car.

    Buying a complete running car is a smart move… I wish you well.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    294

    Default

    Well I was thinking that something turn key where I could have a starting point and build from there. I'm 31 and starting late myself. My grandfather and dad were big into racing until I was about 10. Then finances or lack of pushed them out. They've since passed but they left me with an itch that has come to a head over the past months. They ran what I believe was "superstreet" which was a street stock with a wing on the roof.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    158

    Default

    The big question is do u have some good help that's what gonna be the key no matter what class u get into.If your going at it alone u might think of going the super street or hobby class whatever its called in your area you'll get competive quicker in a lower class and still get to drive a latemodel style car.whatever u do don't go cheap on safty and good luck

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    tulsa america
    Posts
    2,686

    Default

    98 is pretty old. Even for a starter car i wouldn't get something more than 10years old.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    294

    Default

    Well I guess my reasoning is this:7500 for a trailer, car, fresh 604 engine, tires, rims, extra parts and pieces.Closest thing I have found to this price is 11,000 without all the extra tires and parts and the trailer in not as nice. There are lots of rollers in the 2006 - 2008 range for around $3500. So if I end up having to buy a newer car I still have only spent 11,000 and have all the extras. Also will not have lost much if I go out and destroy it the first time out lol Thanks for all the replies.

  7. #7

    Default

    There's pros and cons to starting up in a crate late model. On the upside, your not bringing any stock car driving habits with you. The driving techniques are completely different between hobby stock/street stocks/sportsman, modifieds, and late models. Your throttle control, how where and when you set up the corner, and how you apex the corner are very different between the divisions. The fundamentals of driving are also different... In stock cars, you typically use trans-ocular techniques ie., you look through the corner and the car essentially follows your line of sight. In late models, you use a counter trans-ocular driving technique and look over your right shoulder when cornering. Also in street stocks it's pretty common to use a one footed driving technique ie., stomp on the brake to break the momentum of the car and then stomp on the accelerator to drive through the corner. In late models - especially crate lates - your using a two footed driving technique, ie., right foot on the accelerator and left foot simultaneously on the brake to keep your RPMs up through the corner. You've found a pretty good deal on a turnkey car. Spend some of the money that you saved and go to one of the chassis & driving schools, such as www.driveondirt.com. $7,500 is a reasonable price, but it becomes extraordinarily expensive if you put the car in the wall and have to buy another one.
    Last edited by Lt.Stryker; 04-23-2014 at 06:18 AM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    662

    Default

    It is a heck of a buy IMO go for it

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    3,224

    Default

    I would buy it take what you want from the package and sell the old car and get a 3500 roller.

  10. #10

    Default

    I personally would not start in a car that old. you need to find something up to date and popular in your area, so you can lean on others for advise. not to many 98 GRT cars anymore. the learning curve will be tough enough, don't put yourself in box

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    3,119

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