Results 1 to 12 of 12
  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    7

    Default First time scaling my car.

    We recently got scales and set up the car took the car to the track and it handled horribly. It had a very bad push on the tacky tried throwing it in changed bias to all rear nothing helped. During the main it still had a push not as bad but on throttle coming out of the turn the car was super loose basically wanting to spin on the front straightaway I was running maybe 3/8 throttle most of the night just to keep it under control. The car worked good before scaling although we only had a few races in it it was always drive-able both on tacky and slick of and coarse I didn't record any weights before I started moving things around and I was running on fumes trying to get the car ready for the next day and don't remember what I did we also installed a new engine with a dart block so the engine is about 25lbs heavier then before. These are my numbers one concern I have is my lf is almost 100lbs more than rf. cross: 48.66% left side: 53.04% rear:56.57% Lf- 572lbs 550lb spring 10psi 2"off Rf-468lbs 600lb spring 14psi 2"off Lr- 698LBS 250lb spring 10psi 2"off Rr-658lbs 200lb spring 14psi 3off I was scaling alone so these numbers do not reflect weights with the driver. I'm about 195lbs.Let me know if I need to supply any more info any input is greatly appreciated thanks!

  2. #2

    Default

    the Lf being as much as 150lbs is ok. don't want to see it any heavier than that. with driver in the car, it would be nice to achieve 53.5 - 54% Left, 52-54% cross, 56-58% rear, depending on driver weight, right around 40 pounds of bite on a 4 bar, z link, or 3 bar car. more if it's a swing arm. and like i said, dont want lf anymore than 150 pounds heavier than rf. would be nice to keep it around 75 pounds. What clip do you have? on a chevelle clip i'd run a 650 rf and a 700 lf to start. metric clip 750 rf, 800 lf. on the rear i always start with either a 175 or 200 rr, and a 225 lr. if it's a swing arm car start with a 350 rr, 450 lr.just jmo, but it's always seemed to work well for me. also something that i've gone to that i really like is ditching the j-bar if your running one for a shorty panhard bar. you dont want to go any shortr than 12" center to center on heims, but most cars end up around 14 1/2" anyway. start with 3" of rake in it. i like the quicker reaction of it, especially on the rough, slick tracks here in michigan.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    7

    Default

    Thank you for the advice much appreciated!My only concern going heavier in the front is that everyone well at least the fast guys are running a 550/500 front springs some even less than that it is a chevelle clip dirtworks genesis imca type mod setup as 4/4. I run a j bar center at pinion with o-1 degrees angle and pull bar is 18 degrees.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    147

    Default

    If I were you I wld try going to a 200 lr spring everything else looks alright

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Nevada
    Posts
    270

    Default

    What are your bar angles and are you indexing the birdcages? And have you called Dirt Works? Just wondering. JMO

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    286

    Default

    Are you spring behind or clamped up in front

  7. #7

    Default

    I'm wondering why you felt it neccesary to change it up that much if it was working before. Scales are for info only. The car still needs to be adjusted for the track.
    Bill W. and Dr. Bob......who could have known.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    7

    Default

    I will get bar angles this weekend for you I know I am pretty high on the top left side trailing arm the more I research the more I think maybe I have issues with the bar angles. I never tried indexing the birdcages really don'y know how. What is a good starting point for the bar angles and do you set them before setting ride heights or after? Also if you have time could you explain how to index the birdcages and what is the benefit?I'm sorry about all the questions I ran a ssm and modlite and I'm new to the mod the class I'm 24 and trying to do this on my own. I did contact dirtworks but they are pretty busy guys and I do not see any info on their page about an overrail genesis so though I would try this forum. Also LR I run spring behind the axle on slider and shock in front. The RR I run a coil-over behind. Another question is do you want your 4 bars as straight as possible or can the be slightly slanted left to right? CONFUSED? I hope your ready to laugh the reason I threw it on the scales in the first place is because I was out 6 months because I blew the engine and tranny got the car together took it out and the car was horrible so thought maybe the engine with more weight and lots more power was the issue when I was done I realized someone hooked up my rr chain I keep it there tied up just in case I ever want to run usmts etc.. the only issue is whoever hooked it up did it when the car was jacked up so there there was no travel in the rr and that caused all kinds of issues lolSo you guys think I should stay away from the lighter springs? Appreciate all your time.
    Last edited by WEBSTER51; 06-20-2014 at 09:22 PM.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,353

    Default

    I would try to contact Gary Clark at Phoenix chassis 417-667-2719 is the number I got, might not be right, he used to be at Dirt Works and should be able to help with the Genesis. Phoenix has a face book page. I would put the c/o mounted in front on the rr. Best of luck.
    Last edited by washeduptoo; 06-20-2014 at 11:01 PM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    544

    Default

    On the real light front springs something to remember is a lot of these guys run on bump stops. They want to pin the rf and jack the lr and keep it there. If I ran that light I would bottom out.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    544

    Default

    One more thing if all u changed was the jack screws and your ride heights are still correct Ill bet your problem is something simple like lr bite. U said the car was driveable before so if it were me I would crank 20 or 30lbs of lr bite in and see how it feels. It will loosen car on entry OFF throttle and help the car rotate better and should help the car all the way thru. I dont think bar angles are your problem, it's something simple.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    286

    Default

    I would start with the dw base setup but I think a good starting point would be rf650 lf700 rr225 and lr200 put the lr behind on an eliminator shock in front put the rr in front as a coil over shock assembly stick with the jbar start at 1" below pinion with 4-5" of rake make sure you have your length right it is very important use that chain on the rr it workswell set it t give you 1.5" from ride height bar angles rlb0 rub18 llb5 lub no more than 42 degrees at full lift set your ride heights and put about 30-40 lbs of lr in it have your lf about 110-130 lbs heavier than the rf and all your percentages should fall into place aim for about 57 percent or a little more with 3/4 tank of fuel that should put you in the ballpark to get the car to turn in and have good drive off

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