Results 1 to 11 of 11
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    20

    Default Running hot 230* 15-20 laps

    2330,,new stock waterpump, 5/8 restrictor,small crank pulley, replaced single pass rad with new triple pass rad, on my 2nd electric fan. the rad hoses are new but bottom hose has no spring inside.Holley 350 and the plugs look perfect but we still went up 2 sizes.Had front panel opened up to let air in on old rad(didnt help) we closed front back up with new rad and still the same hot temps. Car is timed at 36* TFI

  2. #2

    Default

    Had the same problem til I took off the electrics and put on a metal 4 blade fan. now it runs too cool.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Knoxville, Tn.
    Posts
    74

    Default

    agree, get rid of the electric fan. we use a plastic fan from the local speed shop. NEVER have any heating issues....

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Be sure to have all the air going through the radiator. Had a similar problem and found the air was hitting the front of the radiator and then going around it (path of least resistance). We built a cold air box to direct all the air through the radiator and now we need to tape off some of the opening to get to the correct temp.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Thurston, OH
    Posts
    915

    Default

    Rev the hot engine to about 5000 rpm in the shop & watch the lower radiator hose to see if it's collapsing. We had that problem a long time ago & going to a wire re-enforced lower hose fixed our heating problem. -Dave-

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    20

    Default

    The rad hose is not collapsing(just checked), and we do have air directed through the rad,, except when we put the new rad in this weekend, we covered the front nose to keep dirt off rad ( figured a 3pass rad wouldnt need holes in front nose cut out.)
    so we will cut holes in the front for this weekend and also thinking about trying a 3/4 restrictor instead of the 5/8,,,If this doesnt help i guess we will have to try manual fan

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    259

    Default

    Single pass radiator is the only one to CONSIDER running a restrictor. Get rid of the restrictor on a triple pass. They resist flow enough, as is.

    And putting holes in nose piece is a very good idea. Just put a screen between holes and radiator.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    1,690

    Default

    On my .060 over 2.3L I run a single pass OEM mustang GT radiator (with plastic tanks) with an elec. fan. NO restrictor in therm. housing, OEM hoses (no steel coil in either) with a stock 1980 mustang nose. I run 190 deg every nite & only use the electric fan on yellows & when race is done.

    Another thing to try is an air dam on bottom of radiator to force air up into it (I have that also on mine). Just an old piece of aluminum about 1" lower than the nose, this alone will keep you cooler under green IMO.
    Last edited by Dirtman29; 06-23-2014 at 03:12 PM.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Trashville
    Posts
    20

    Default

    Make sure the head is not over Deck, this to has been seen as a problem a time or two. And tun the Esslinger 7" pulley slow down the water pumps rotations.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    20

    Default

    Thanks for the help guys,, took the restrictor out and ran 185* all night !

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,008

    Default

    now you need a racing thermostat to get your temps back up to 195-205 degrees.

    olin

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