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  1. #1

    Default rough running 358

    I have 2 videos I will share at the end of this but we are looking for last ditch efforts. I have posted here before about shocks and received a ton of help, which I am hoping to find again.

    The car idles great and is set to 32 degrees out on timing, and every time it is checked it's always still at 32. We have rebuilt the carb, rechecked all lifters to .18, spark plugs are gapped at 35. The videos taken were on a brand new set of plugs and wires. The fuel is clean, the pumps are pumping fuel great, good fuel psi and oil pressure. It just will not run correctly. The smoke is from the right rear rubbing. It went flat shortly after.

    Kipp Schaefer - Play day: http://youtu.be/gFGW8-x1K2k

    Kipp Schaefer play day: http://youtu.be/E5CKUw_49Is

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Central IL
    Posts
    504

    Default

    Have you checked your coil?

    Also, what color are your plugs when you pull them after letting the car idle for five minutes?
    #72W U.M.P Stock Car

  3. #3

    Default

    The coil is the very first thing we changed. We didn't pull the plugs after any sessions so I can't say for sure at the moment. We ran this same engine last year with no problems, it was stored correctly during the off season and upon putting the new car together and dropping the engine in we've been fighting this since.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Springfield IL
    Posts
    147

    Default

    Start with the basic, three things are required to make an engine run, compression, fuel ,and ignition. Do a compression test first to make sure that every cylinder has compression to fire the fuel mixture. Fuel system start at the vent and work you way to the carb. Who rebuilt the carb, did it run fine before carb was rebuilt, was something missed or wrong gasket used in rebuild? Was carb cleaned in carb cleaner, washed with water the air dried? Float level to high, to low? Vacuum Leak? Ingition, new plug wires, check with ohm meter to make sure no open in wiring, flex wire when checking to check for broken wire. Bad new spark plug, check for cracked insulators, ground tip broke off. ( Seen it happen before ) Plug wire crossed, done it myself. Good engine ground. Work through the problem so you know where you are at . Dont just change parts and guess what is wrong and drive yourself crazy!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Springfield IL
    Posts
    147

    Default

    Check battery voltage should be 13.2 volts for a fully charged 12 volt battery. Do load test on battery to maintain voltage. Part store can do test if you do not have equipment. Is all the new wiring have a good connection where wire and connectors are made?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Bakersfield,Ca
    Posts
    566

    Default

    MSD box or ground wire .Put a meter to both hots one at a time on the box and the ground on the wire connector for the ground, motor running, should be battery voltage.
    Gator Engineering

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Central IL
    Posts
    504

    Default

    We fought that same issue earlier this year, car even sounded the same. Pulled the plugs and they were very black (running fuel rich and loading the plugs), we jetted down one size and changed plugs and the car has never done it again.
    #72W U.M.P Stock Car

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Central IL
    Posts
    504

    Default

    That being said I would check everything else these guys are saying because I know for a fact that they know more than I do about this matter. Just putting in my suggestion.
    #72W U.M.P Stock Car

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Springfield IL
    Posts
    147

    Default

    Should have said compressed air dried on the carb rebuild to remove any loose debris. Sorry about that. let us know what you have found out. It will help everybody. Mike

  10. #10

    Default

    We have tried 72 to 84 jets with no difference, we don't run an MSD box. That carb was rebuilt and had 5 laps on it, from a professional with carburetors.

    I checked the plugs, they were a little black, but nothing that would be alarming. In the second video, we know for sure a lot of the smoke is from tire rub but we are starting to believe some of it may be engine smoke.

    We are running a compression check tomorrow, and had a distributor built specifically for our cam and engine setup we are putting in along with it.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    133

    Default

    Plugs shouldn't have any black on them. I would run a ground wire 10ga from battery to the intake it's help a lot people with a little miss.

  12. #12

    Default

    I will continue to post what we try and if it affects the car and may hopefully help myself and someone else's. All of your guys suggestions will be looked into.

    The car starts instantly and idles great and even sounds good revving sitting still. But going around the track and soon as you dump any loud pedal into it, it falls on its face.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Central IL
    Posts
    504

    Default

    Plugs need to be white to whitish brown with no black at all. That shows you are fuel rich and loading up your plugs.
    #72W U.M.P Stock Car

  14. #14

    Default

    T,he plugs were definitely black but I have see worse plugs. The only oddball is we've ran this same engine rebuilt every year from the same guy, this off season we didn't rebuild. It ran great when stored, and won't run now. What changed?

    That session I posted was with 73 jets, What do you suggest? My first though was a fuel pressure regulator, we don't run one.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Springfield IL
    Posts
    147

    Default

    If everything ran fine last year, check what was new this year. If the motor run good in the shop on under lite load, but falls on it face under hammer down race track conditions, something should,could maybe, be wrong in the ignition system. Again check battery voltage HEI ignitions require a good battery to fire under heavy engine loads. Check all grounds and wire connections, good engine ground. Did the module go bad in the dist? Plugs will look too rich if ignition is not firing properly. What did the person who worked on the dist do? Talk to him about the problem, if he is good with ignition systems he should be a wealth of information.

  16. #16

    Default

    Upon further inspection today we found 3 broken poly locks in our roller rockers! We are going to replace them all in the morning, and readjust the lifters to .18 all the way around. Between the fixed locks, the brand new distributor, new plugs gapped to 35, and a new set of plug wires.. I hope we have this issue fixed. I will report Saturday night after the races.
    Last edited by HRGraphics; 07-17-2014 at 09:03 PM.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    2,319

    Default

    When you say "broken poly lock" how was it broken? Where was it broken? Did it break the stud?Personally, I think you have a head gasket problem.
    BUCKLE UP NOW, YA HEAR?

  18. #18

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by let-r-eat View Post
    When you say "broken poly lock" how was it broken? Where was it broken? Did it break the stud?Personally, I think you have a head gasket problem.
    Number 2, 6 and 7 were broken down the base, split towards the hex. We believe having them set at .22 had too much play and wiggled loose and ended up breaking from wearing themselves out. Studs were fine. Sound accurate?
    Last edited by HRGraphics; 07-18-2014 at 09:02 AM.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Bakersfield,Ca
    Posts
    566

    Default

    Check for valve spring coil bind.
    Gator Engineering

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Springfield IL
    Posts
    147

    Default

    No something does not sound correct .004 more gap in valve clearance will not break poly locks. Take a compression test. Look everything over real well. Talk to your motor builder, tell him what you have found. I would check the push rods on those cylinders roll them on s smooth straight surface ( glass or a counter top ), are they bent any? If they are have valve and pistons touched? Bent valve? How is the time to check, you do not want to hurt a good motor. You have done great to find this problem, look farther! Make sure everything else is OK with then valve train, could this be a result of something else going on , or going to happen. Might want o talk to your motor builder before you race this weekend. Just my thoughts, just do not want see anybody hurt their motor. Mike

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