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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    305

    Default Set ups track to track?

    Well just found this forum and hopefully it's full of good advice and helpful people. But as my first post I'm wondering what most do from track to track. From 1/4 mile to 1/2 mile and tacky to dry. Our Shaw car we've gotten away from the base set up and had greater success on 1/4 mile but not much time on 3/8 to 1/2 with it. Currently we run 700-750 rf and 600 LF. Rears usually a 200 lr and been bouncing from 175-225 RR. The shaw book says to keep usually 600s in front but we went to 700-750 rf to help turn / rotate car and have the added drive off. It's working well. But I've heard other had success with lighter spring as low as 400-550 in rf. now racing a bigger track and dry should we go lighter to take this pivoting away from rf that I believe that's going on? I know shocks play a huge part in car too but I'll start with spring ideas and opinions and hopefully why so I understand. Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    140

    Default

    Not sure I can be much help with your question but just wondering if you are running the suggested ride heights on the front end of your shaw? I only have one race on mine and was bottoming the RF pretty bad. Trying to decide between more spring or raising the ride heights some.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    305

    Default

    You know I'd have to check but at bolts on front a arms I around recommended height. I'm on a point and shoot track which is why I feel I can pivot off of the rf more so than at say a bigger track with longer corners where momentum would be beneficial. Just could never get he 600 and lighter to work as well as I'd like on the point and shoot track especially if tacky. Now dry slick the 550-600 is fine when using the brakes deep into corner but tacky gotta point and go and I like having the drive there when needed.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Batavia, OH
    Posts
    13,634

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dirtracer50 View Post
    Not sure I can be much help with your question but just wondering if you are running the suggested ride heights on the front end of your shaw? I only have one race on mine and was bottoming the RF pretty bad. Trying to decide between more spring or raising the ride heights some.
    Believe it or not, sometimes less spring leads to less bottoming.
    Modern Day Wedge Racing
    Florence -2
    Atomic - 1

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Red Dirt USA
    Posts
    1,024

    Default

    Yep, that happens a lot. With a softer rf, more weight transfers to the RR. Mark Bush stated that also in a recent DLM tech article.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    140

    Default

    Thanks guys. Now I'm really not sure what I'm gonna try next. Sorry to hijack your thread 9x. I'm going to get 2 nights in this weekend on a large 3/8 momentum track so I will try my best to let you know what I learn and maybe it will help you as well.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Central IL
    Posts
    504

    Default

    One thing we have learned with our mod is to go with the baseline setup the first time you go to a new track, and make adjustments accordingly while writing them down. You may not set the world on fire the first time you are racing there, but you will learn a lot and know the proper adjustments for that certain track and the next time you return you will be so much better their.
    #72W U.M.P Stock Car

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    422

    Default

    So when you go to a softer RF, I assume you leave the LF alone then? I run 550# across the front of my chevelle clip car. Was having problems with a 500# RF and 550# LF bottoming out. So if I go to a 450# RF and leave the LF alone my travel should be the same?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    305

    Default

    You know the last 3/8 we ran and ran well we used a 750rf. The track was very tacky and we relied more on drive than side bite. When it's tacky I think we have a great car but if not we have to drop rates I believe in front end to carry more momentum into the corner. The right rear spring I'm thinking we may leave at a 200 always but just change rf track to track. We just have some 1/2 mile dry stuff coming up and want to be able to make sure car is fast. Anyone have thoughts on Valving rf vs spring change or both? Also RR shock divorced or coil over? This is something I can't get much info on with shock behind.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    226

    Default

    As far as RR shock and spring, your not going to notice a difference in having them together with spring on the shock or separate.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    305

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mod88s View Post
    As far as RR shock and spring, your not going to notice a difference in having them together with spring on the shock or separate.
    I definitely would disagree with you on this for our cars. Behind on the dry we lost an incredible amount of side bite. I would like a definitive answer as to why Valving would remain the same because it makes sense why we lost side bite if I think about it with my small amount if knowledge. Tacky we can get away with it but dry not on our cars.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    1

    Default

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  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    226

    Default

    Not sure why you could tell such a difference. With the shock behind, the car rolls onto the RR a bit more which should increase sidebite if anything. The birdcage indexes away from the shock which is why some people increase valving on that shock. The only thing I can think of is if it tightened your car up so much on entry that your driver had to slide it in resulting in the loss of sidebite.

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